I like what I see!! Coming out super nice man!
Here is what I got for driveshaft/TH350 clearance pics. This is not my final setup. The driveshaft in these pictures is a 2.5", I will be running a 2" but it needs to be lengthened. This one happened to be close enough for mock-up purposes. I will probably drop the rear of the drive train a couple more degrees. Its hard to see in these pics but it is really close to missing the bottom of the pan completely and I think a few degrees would get it. Might need to clock the D300 too. Remember that my adaptor sets the D300 really flat.WOW, it´s looking NICE.
Yes, what I did what jalbrecht42 described, stretched behind the fenders.
Can you show a pic of the front driveshaft/TH350 pan clearance, now that is everything bolted ??
ya...I have rubber between the aluminum channel and the weld seam between the tanks and core, 4 total. Also decided to only put 1 bolt from the risers to the top mount. Hopefully this allows the frame to rack and not load up the radiator.are you isolating the radiator at all?
LOL....its the E2000s I kept having hell with....I had it about 18" from the tank in my blazer, mounted lower than the tank so that it would siphon better, and still kept frying 'em. Glad to hear you had better luck than me. In my flatty, when I ran a fuel cell I just hose clamped my pump to the pickup hose inside it, and JB welded the hole where my power wires penetrated the cell. Pump was still easy to change since you could reach in through the large fill hole and pull it out for a quick change if need be. I never had one go out in it though.If you keep your external pump close to the tank and below the level of the tank you won't have any problems. I've had my E2000 that way for 2 years now.
In the tank would be sweet any pics? This one mounted to the body is LOUD! I'd imagine once I get mufflers on it, the wine will get anoying especially mounted directly under the driver.if you can, put the pump in your tank, I've always had hell with pumps quitting often when they are frame mounted. Maybe you'll have better luck.
Thanks! Simple and reliable is the theme here. I don't like working on it when I'm suppose to be playing. Especially when I plan to drag it 12 hours to Ouray, CO this summer. I posted the stuff on the adaptor so someone else would hopefully use the idea. Have $220 in it and $210 of that was the shaft I had to buy from AA. Still better than $500. Everyone is trying to save a buck these days. :smokin:Cool project! I like how you're keeping the build simple and reliable. Kudos for researching the transfer case adapter, too. Anyone could give lots of cash to AA or Novak for an adapter, but a DIY solution is more rewarding.
Awesome idea on the fuel line protection! Think I'll do that. As for the fuel filter I used lines from a Chevy truck so I kinda had to use it or splice the lines. Stupid thing is huge isn't it? Might have to find what fitting that is and redo it. its past the pump anyway, and I have one before the pump. Really not needed unless the pump fails and sends junk down the line.For fuel line protection, what about covering them with pipe that has been split down the center? Maybe bend some small (1" or 1.5") exhaust pipe in the same shape as your fuel lines and cut the pipe in half down its length. Then, weld some tabs on and bolt it to the side of the frame.
At the least, I'd probably put the fuel filter somewhere else. That's a pretty big component to be hanging off the outside of the frame rail. (It looks like you're running a second filter on the gas can -- will that be there when you install the fuel cell?)
Keep up the good work!
heres an idea i was thinkin about doing it on my yj run the lines thru the fire wall and tucked in beside the inside of the quarter panel just an ideaRan fuel lines while i was wiring too. Same truck the computer came from donated its fuel lines. All the way from the throttle body to the tank. Was able to bend the steel lines by hand and with a little tubing bender to get them routed.
Used a Summit inline fuel pump and mounted it to the body on the back side of the riser panel.
Temporary gas can...haven't got my fuel cell yet.
Ok...fatal flaw on the route. I'm sure you noticed i'm running them on the outside of the frame. The reason is because I ran my exhaust tucked up on the inside and there is no room for the fuel lines now that the frame is boxed in. Seemed like a good idea at the time . You can see what i did in this pic.
This is a problem I don't have a good solution for yet. I'll have sliders along the body eventually that will tie to the frame. Think that will be enough protection? Should I extend my skid plate under the lines? Maybe I'm worrying about it too much? I can just see snaging a line on a rock and spraying pressurized fuel everywhere.
Or...taking this idea and expanding on it. Run the fuel lines down the middle under and attached to the body above the trans and transfer case then 90 degree up and then 90 degree over into the fuel pump. This keeps the pump under the body for protection and noise. Only issue I see is it running near the drive shaft for 4-6 inches. thoughts?heres an idea i was thinkin about doing it on my yj run the lines thru the fire wall and tucked in beside the inside of the quarter panel just an idea