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I think the biggest issue is keeping it away from heat, it would clear the D-shaft enough to be safe. Only bad thing is if you happen to pop a u-joint and that d-shaft swings around and hits the high pressure lines you could be in for a major recovery.

If you came down through the floor (Where you are rightn ow) seems the only place to go is above the case like you said. Maybe some kind of shield would work nicely? Just to gaurd it in the case of a u-joint pop and the shafts swingin up and hitting the line.

Throwin out ideas man.
 

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i didnt notice whether its a boxed frame or not. you could run the lines through the inside of the frame. It would take some persuasion(stainless braided or rubber lines would make it easier), but could be worth it in the long run protection wise. Its not like this jeep is going to see road salt, right?
 

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build looks great, and I applaud you for not going overboard with the bling, but I question your engine choice. Prior to swapping to a GM 400 ci block I ran a 305 in my M715 and there was absolutely nothing worthwhile to say about it. You may be one of a dozen people who have ever torn into one cause a 350 is just so cheap and easy to swap instead and offers vastly improved power across the board. I assume your using the 305 because you had it (hopefully you didn't knowingly purchase one) but I'd think long and hard about ponying up a little coin and going with a 350 instead while its still easy to get at. Good luck with the rest of the build.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I think the biggest issue is keeping it away from heat, it would clear the D-shaft enough to be safe. Only bad thing is if you happen to pop a u-joint and that d-shaft swings around and hits the high pressure lines you could be in for a major recovery.

If you came down through the floor (Where you are rightn ow) seems the only place to go is above the case like you said. Maybe some kind of shield would work nicely? Just to gaurd it in the case of a u-joint pop and the shafts swingin up and hitting the line.

Throwin out ideas man.
Looked at it last night and came up with the same idea. I'll make a tunnel for the fuel lines to run through where it goes by the drive shaft. Thanks for all the ideas everyone! A great thing about this forum...huge knowledge base.

build looks great, and I applaud you for not going overboard with the bling, but I question your engine choice. Prior to swapping to a GM 400 ci block I ran a 305 in my M715 and there was absolutely nothing worthwhile to say about it. You may be one of a dozen people who have ever torn into one cause a 350 is just so cheap and easy to swap instead and offers vastly improved power across the board. I assume your using the 305 because you had it (hopefully you didn't knowingly purchase one) but I'd think long and hard about ponying up a little coin and going with a 350 instead while its still easy to get at. Good luck with the rest of the build.
Yep...305's suck...in full size vehicles. Especially when you can get the same power from a 4.3 V6. Hence why this one has been in so many vehicles temporarily. Only advantage over the 4.3 is a little torque. The Willys is so little and doesn't weigh much so I can't imagine having any power issues. I did size my radiator for a bigger motor though just in case. I have a 355 and a 327 available, just not right now. This 305 was sitting in the corner of the shop where I'm building the Willys...so really convinient. Figure I could have the engine swapped in an afternoon when one of the others come available and if I hate the 305. How's the 400ci working out for you? I hear they have some overheating issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Body work

My favorate part :flipoff2: replacing floors. Sure glad I got my tetanus shot recently.

Since pictures say a thousand words...here's what I started with

Cargo Floor


Drivers floor


Passanger floor


Broke out the plasma cutter and air chizel and went to town





This is all that I cut out of the front floors...not much left of the floor or the supports


30 minutes to rip it out and hours to put it back!
 

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How's the 400ci working out for you? I hear they have some overheating issues?
Well I sold the Kaiser several years ago, but the 400 worked great, I had heared some talk about them running hot as well, but mine ran like a top and never gave me any cooling issues, even with the little radiator that I used to cool the 305. Torquey little basterd did managed to S wrap my 5/4 ton rear leaf packs though :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Floors

Got a sheet of 14ga diamond plate for the cargo floor. It was cheaper to get a full sheet than cut...go figure so I go the whole 4x8 sheet. Which means plenty for the front floors and I made a new riser out of it. The original rear floor was 14ga but the front was something like 18ga. Riser was thinner too. Probably overkill but lools pretty sweet.

Sheet I started with


My free plasma cutter. Someone was going to throw it away cuz it was old and they couldn't make it work. Dumb ass had the air pressure turned up to high. turned it down and it works like a champ! Sometimes I'm glad there are stupid people with too much money.



When I cut the old floors out I made sure that the new pieces could be flat to make it easier. Used some cardboard and made templates, traced them out onto the sheet of diamond plate then cut the pieces with the plasma cutter.



Passanger floor tacked in:


Made the riser from the same sheet. To get the edges broke over since I don't have a break I clamped the sheet to the edge of my trailer with an inch hanging off. put in the ear plugs and beat the hell out of it with a 2 lb sledge. Bet the neibors were pissed :flipoff2: Since it is a "C" shape, had to use the rail of the trailer for the other leg. Worked pretty damn good. actually suprised how well it came out.





Then the rear cargo floor. It is all square so used a straight edge and zipped them out with the plasma again...man I love that thing. Sure makes my life easier.





Now the build is up to present day. Made the rear floor last night. Plan is to have the floors done by the end of next weekend, then put the tub back on the chassis for the FINAL TIME!!
 

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Looks good! Im not sure what I'll be doing with my floor, heck im not even sure I'll really have much of a floor??? lol. My rear fender wells are still in really good shape, so I plan on cutting them out and using them for the new "body" but I will have cut the top at an angle to work with the dovetail.
 

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Looks good! I know how time consuming it is, I am in the middle of my sheet metal (replacement) work on a 48 flatty.

 

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Looks good! I am not looking forward to replacing my sheet metal. Free plasma is pretty sweet!!! :grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Cargo Floor

Got a little shop time this weekend and was able to get my rear floor knocked out. I built it as a sub-assembly that drops in as one piece. Went really smooth and it only took a couple hours to knock out. Only issue I had was some oil-canning between the two cross supports. Wasn't too bad to fix though. Heated it up in the middle with the torch to shrink the metal, tapped on it a bit around the edges and it mostly flattened out. Still a little bump but it's barly noticable. Only notice it if you knew it was there.







DONE!
 

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That looks pretty damn sweet! What is the floor? Almost looks like metal building sheet metal?


I cut the floor out of a 1991 chevy pickup bed, that was wrecked on the side, but the center of the bed was in good shape. For the rest of my sheet metal work I have been using 16ga, and for bending the 16ga it's a hammer and angle iron:
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Tub work

Been a while since I updated and have been working on the tub pretty steady. Don't have as much time as i'd like. It's finally warm here and the yard and my Harley are taking shop time. I gotta say though...kudos to the guys that do body work shait for a living...it's so time consuming, can work on it all day and it doesn't seem like I've gotten anywhere. Hard to get motivated.

Updated with better pictures

Started patching up the rear of the tub, but the more I got into it...the more rot I found. Broke out the plasma and started cutting.



After:




Also cut the rear fenders out. Running 36's and stretched the frame to move the axle back so had to make room. I did the wheel opening stretch different than most I've seen. I wanted to keep the rolled under lip to avoid ever cutting a tire it it contacted the body so I cut out a pie and moved the whole piece back. Most I've seen cut it back with a hack saw leaving a sharp edge.

Right side:

Before:


Cut out:


Tacked in:


How much I stretched the wheel opening back


Left side


The piece I cut out and moved back on the left side
 

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Discussion Starter #56
All the metal work is done on the tub! Here's something I did that I haven't seen anyone else do. I made the bed 10 inches wider. The axles are Wagonneer and are outside the wheel wells so most of the area under the wheel house is wasted space. I figured I might as well add the extra room. It was unfortunately an after-thought...you can see where I added to the floor.





I'm going to have my fuel cell and battery in the bed, plus my shocks will stick through the floor. This gives me just enough room to add a rear seat or just have more cargo room.

What do you think? Good idea or is there something I didn't think of that is going to piss me off for wasting the time later?
 

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Looks good! Glad to see you are getting to work on it some more. The only thing I can think of is the inside tire clearance, when the suspension is flexed and the wheel stuffed up into the fender well, the tire may rub. If this is a problem it could maybe fixed with offset rims???
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Looks good! Glad to see you are getting to work on it some more. The only thing I can think of is the inside tire clearance, when the suspension is flexed and the wheel stuffed up into the fender well, the tire may rub. If this is a problem it could maybe fixed with offset rims???

Thanks! Getting more motivated now that the tub is nearly done.

Hopefully I left enough for flex...unless I measured wrong I should have a couple inches to spare. Can't really flex it and see for sure since there is no weight on it...
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Haven't updated for a while. I'll throw out pics instead of trying to explain...you guys are smart enough to figure it out. Again, if I fawked something up tell me about it.



Kinda pissed, had my J-yard Th350 to D300 all figured out and installed. Went to fit up my drive shaft and it his the trans pan. :confused: Scored this adaptor from a guy locally. It's the AA one, actually pretty slick, clocks the D300 nice.



Made a crossmember to accomodate the new drop...what sucks is my old crossmember was straight and simple. this one turned out pretty complex.





 

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Discussion Starter #60
Next thing...painted the underside and inside of the tub with POR15. It's pretty easy to work with, just glob it on with a paint brush. The shait doesn't come off your hands though. Gas won't even touch it! Ruins the brush too. It levels out as it cures so there isn't any brush strokes.





Welded a piece of 1/8" plate to the top of the frame rails and tapped a hole for a 3/8" bolt. Did this in 6 places and made a bracket at the rear of the tub.



Mounted the body and hit it with the rattle cans. Yep, rattle cans. It's a fawking Jeep...I'm going to beat the hell out of it anyway. I might do body work to it someday...It's going to Ouray in 6 weeks. Don't give a shait how straight it is right now, as long as its functional.









Yep...that's orange...NOT OD Green. Have you ever seen an old Willys NOT OD Green?? Think it's my 1st :shaking:. Nothing against the color, in fact I think they look sweet as hell in OD green, but EVERYONE paints them that color. So I went the exact opposite direction. Can't miss this one, might even be able to see it from orbit!!:flipoff2:
 
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