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Me and my buddy did the chevy spring sway and 48" rears up front on both of our trucks. His is a 1st gen and mine is the 884runner. Just wanted to get some opinions from those of you that have the same setup, kind of like to compare if it seems were getting the proper amounts of travel out of this.

For the rear we went 11" eye to eye for the front spring hanger and left the rear hanger in the stock location. On my 4runner i'm running a 10" shackle eye to eye and my buddy has the double shackle setup. I'm running the 5 leaf pack(4+overload) on my 4runner and he's running the 4 leaf pack(3+overload) with the overload cut down and a 2" block.

For the rears up front we're both running 3" drop hangers but my 4runner has the under the frame shackle hanger setup instead of through the frame where his rig is running a 6" eye to eye shackle through frame.

For shocks we're both using Procomp es9000 14" travel and have them mounted so that 4 1/2" of shaft is showing. On my 4runner i'm running 38x12.5 Swamper TSLs and his 1st gen has 35x12.5s uniroyals.

Any opinions or advice would be appreciated. We are so far impressed with the rears up front.









HIS 1ST GEN




 

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my $0.02

double shackles, 1/4 eliptical springs and buggy leafs need a link system or traction bar incorporated in there design/engineering or they are garbage.

the leafs need the clamps or youll have a drivehsaft disaster sooner or later, or a rock will catch on one and bend the hell out of it.

nice trucks, if you throw some bilstiens, edelbrock or PIG shocks on there youll really be impressed!
 

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That looks about the same as all the toy's ive seen on chevy springs. Def the way to go when it comes to new springs, you dont pay the price of new springs, do a little fab, and get awesome flex out of it. Nice work.
 

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the 1st gen would sit more level (like the 4runner) if the double shackle were ditched. By having that rear tire pull down on the frame, it would make the truck sit level over stuff like that.

Looks good from what i can see, but I dont dig the lack of front spring clamps.
 

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booger weldz what do you mean the springs need the clamps or you will have a driveshaft disaster sooner or later?
 

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this is what silentjim's front leafs are doing when they're drooped.

we went with a clamp on both ends that allow it to seperate a few inches before reaching the limit point.



and yes that 1st gen is mine in the pics.
 

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Guessing cause they'll fan out? Never thought that they'd go far enough to get into the driveshaft. I've had em spread out and get into the gas tank on my Blazer, too lazy to put clamps on em.
 

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How does it ride on the street? Could you daily drive your 4runner with that setup? I am thinking about doing the same on my 1990 4runner
 

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Booger Weldz said:
my $0.02

double shackles, 1/4 eliptical springs and buggy leafs need a link system or traction bar incorporated in there design/engineering or they are garbage.

X 2000
 

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84Toyota4x4 said:
Heres my opinion...

I fawking wish my truck would flex like that :shaking:

~T.J.

are you being sarcastic or serious? ha i think i got the most of this spring setup. I do agree about the back on my truck though, the double shackles are kind of booty, they drop very easy and open under throttle. you really had to put a limiting strap in the center of the rear axle to keep the axle from dropping down evenly. i might try going to a 10 or 11" eye to eye shackle and see what happens.

To be honest the chevies are ok but i'm more impressed with the rears up front. I would like to get my hands on a 51" set of rears and try them.. :smokin:
 

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rvd said:
this is what silentjim's front leafs are doing when they're drooped.

we went with a clamp on both ends that allow it to seperate a few inches before reaching the limit point.



and yes that 1st gen is mine in the pics.

your clamp allows the spring to fan out and makes it easy to catch on a rock, tree, etc and bend into junk. the loose clamps also allow a lot of axle wrap. the first time you climb a water fall about the length of your wheelbase when the front unloads if you loose grip and start a bounce youll either waste the ujoint in the shaft or the shaft will fall apart.

that shackle looks like its about to invert and destroy the mainleaf, especially if you had to backup. its one thing to have a bunch of flex, but its another to unengineer alot of the parameters a leaf can actully work under.

im not talking shit, im just telling you what ive learned from making mistakes, or what others have showed me before my junk got screwed up:beer:
 

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I took the clamps off the chevies and added one clamp on the front half of the pack to keep them from fanning out,,i got alot more flex out of them..Also if you don't clamp the front springs there going to bust,,catch on a rock,bend,,also on up hill climbs the axle will walk out take the spring and bend it,,also the yolk will bottom out and bust a u-joint..all sorts of ugly things happen.
 

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flex is over rated.

i would personally clamp those springs down. this way you don't break or bend a main leaf, or even destroy a diff do to axel wrap. my truck dosnt flex worth shit but it kicks ass on the rocks.

 

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I agree flex is overated, i got over stuff just fine before i did the suspension with 1/2 the travel. As for that boogerweldz said, i can see your point totally, but just wanted to say that the shackle at the rear of the front leaf wont invert forward. It looks like it in the photo but really it goes right back to its static position. What i did since those pics was cut down the rear clamp at the rear of the front leaf and put a stop on it allowing the leafs to seperate 1/2 of what they are in the photo.

As for waterfalls, we dont have any here haha for the rocks we have here our trucks are working good. But like i said i do see what you're saying. The first time i start to have bad axle wrap I will fix the problem asap.

thanks for your comments.
 

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what should I do about a front drivline with single t-case. I have waggy springs and 3 inch lift shackles. driveline is lengthened 1 inch but binds at front u-joint. I'd like to go with rears up front.
 

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snowtoy83, we had the same problem with silentjim's 4runner since he's running the automatic. What i did with silentjim's 4runner was take apart the double carden joint on the front driveshaft and clearance it to handle 30degrees or so,and made up a square tube front driveshaft.I also rotated the front perches a bit on the axle housing instead of running shims. It drives fine now and at full droop the carden joint doesn't bind, but it's probably right on the borderline. Any more droop and it would bind. It droops enough i think.
 
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