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Discussion Starter #1
I am in need of just help, I have to get the flexplate reattatched to the torque converter, is there any one who knows any kind of tricks or "way" to do this with all of it in the XJ, yes I learned the freaking hard way about marking my shit before swaping motors. any help would be great, this is the last that I have to do.

This is an 89 xj 4.0HO with auto.

Thanks Chris
 

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I am in need of just help, I have to get the flexplate reattatched to the torque converter, is there any one who knows any kind of tricks or "way" to do this with all of it in the XJ, yes I learned the freaking hard way about marking my shit before swaping motors. any help would be great, this is the last that I have to do.

This is an 89 xj 4.0HO with auto.

Thanks Chris
Take inspection plate off. Turn engine by hand until the flexplate holes line up with the torque converter, do one at a time, round and round until they are all tight?
 

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How did you get it off?



assuming that you have done the hard part, and seated the torque converter onto the input shaft, and bolted the tranny up, centering the TC in the end of the crank...

there is an inspection plate on the bottom of the AW4.

take it off.

also remove the starter.

use a pry bar in the starter hole to move the flex plate till you can see the hole in it that 1 of 4 bolts goes into...

reach through the starter hole, around the flex plate and move the torque converter till threads line up with the hole in the flex plate...

install a bolt...

use pry bar to make another hole visible...

install a bolt...

repeat - remembering to torque properly and use loctite red...

replace inspection cover, replace starter.

or swap to an AX-15 - the clutch bolts to the fly wheel, and then the tranny is inserted... :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the information. I think that I will ask n a diffrent way. Is the flexplate and torqure converter to be set up in a sertin way, is there any offset of the bolt pattern for the torque converter, I have put the bolts in, once then as I started to get to the last bolt I noticed that the flexplate well flexed to much and the starter would not hit the ring gear. As for all the other parts the shaft has lined up with the rear of the crank, no problems there, and no I didn't install the flexplate in the wrong way. Is there a set pin to the flexplate for the torque or does it matter.
 

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If it is the right one than it shouldnt matter.put all the convertor bolts in but just get them started, I think there is 4, and then tighten them.I f there is any kind of binding than pull the tranny back out and make sure the convertor is all the seated on the shaft. the flex plate should turn freely from the convertor and no there is no pin or anything like that.the pattern is the same for the bolts no matter how you turn it
 

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On an AW4 there is no clock to the flexplate like on a tf type trans. Start with any hole in the flexplate and any hole in the TC - it's a symetric pattern.

It's possible that your TC has a burr on the snout and is not fully enguaging the crank, which would cause the flexpalte to be bending as you are cranking it down. I know it's too late now, but ALWAYS test fit the convertor to the back of the motor before installing the trans to avoid that particular problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
okay go the flexpkate all mated, then as it is running the damn thing starts spiting oil from the rear, it is pouring out from in side of flexplate, off the bellhousing!!! crap any idea's?
 

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sounds like you need a rear main seal now
 

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Engine oil, or transmission fluid? If it's tranny fluid, did you replace the TC seal in the pump before installing the transmission? You will also want to make sure that the pump bushing is still in spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I am going with the rear main, the donor motor that I have was out of a crashed yj so I am really thinking the the rear crank flange got bentted damn it.it also had a broken vib dampner on the front of it, .:mad3: but hey it was a freebe and worth the shot in the dark with the swap, so who has a long block 4.0 in nor-cal
 

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First I would check the crank flange with a dial indicator before you get carried away looking for a new motor. If it's just a rear main seal it can be replaced without removing the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the info bout it. I really needed it, but I am saddend to say that its more than likely the rear crank flange is bent. like I said this motor was in a jeep that had hit a tree pretty damn hard.
 

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Why didn't you check these things before you put it in?
 

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I'm still curious how you figure the back of the crank getting bent from a front end collision? Was the original tranny snapped off?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
also had a broken vib dampner on the front of it, no it didn't break or crack the bellhousing we put a mic on it it looked as it was true, but when come time to put power to it, the smallest about of wooobble it is fawked. with in 20 min of run time it chews up the rr main. nope this motor is a paper weight, I have draind the oil, and from the looks of it, the bearing are also shot. it is nice and shiny oil.
 
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