[cmk]

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Pros: $150 adapter not necessary, saves ~3/4" in driveline length versus adapter plate, no loss of spline engagement, capable of almost any clock/rotation

Cons: the case has to be completely stripped to do the machining

I have yet to completely finish this project, but I don't forsee any hangups at this point versus the adapter plate setup.

I'm throwing this out to the public to gauge interest in something such as this.

cmk

 

[Mattsyj7]

Maybe this is a stupid question, but do You have to machine the t-case or the tranny? What kind of machining do You have to do? Drill out the threaded holes that the studs were in in the tranny?
Matt

 

[cmk]

Look at the picture carefully and you can see that the original holes in the AX15 tailhousing are still used. The machining is done solely to the d300 case.

The original threaded holes in the d300 are left alone. A new pattern of threaded holes is machined into the d300 case based on the flip/rotation desired.

cmk

 

[Go2Guy]

Maybe you checked this out already and with this application you already are deeper than I've been, but.....

I had been told by several who tried that the input shaft hdwe on the 300 would "bottom" on some of the tranny stuff inside the adapter you are showing in the pic. Did you already check this out or perhaps you modified this area too?? It's always been rumored you needed an adapter 3/4 to 7/8 thick for this reason.

please, set me straight.

Also, you seem like a competent person from other posts I've read, did you machine thru holes into the t-case hsg? did you make sure that the studs won't thread to deep into any of the moving parts in the t-case? Just trying to help but I suspect you have it covered.

 

[cmk]

Go2, I figured this would pique your interest.

**edit**

In regards to the machining, yes, the new tapped holes are thru-holes. I did that in order to get as much thread engagement as possible. Since I didn't have the OE studs, I picked up a set of Dorman studs that are of the proper length so as not to extend into the moving parts (~1/2" thread on the 3/8UNC side of the stud). A healthy slathering of threadlock should take care of sealing the gear lube in. The GR8 hex bolts in that pic were used strictly for mock-up purposes.

And to answer any "accuracy" questions, all work including the coordinate measuring, drilling, and tapping was done on a CNC mill.

cm "better wheeling through CNC" k

 

[cmk]

Go2, now you have my interest piqued ...

I just checked it out and yes, there are interference problems. The problems don't lie in the shafts as I thought before I edited my previous post. The problem lies in getting the d300's input housing to "insert" into the AX15's tailhousing.

I just thought of a slick way around that though. It'll require some simple machining of the input housing, a different sized seal, and some polishing on the input shaft.

Thanks for the insight dude!

cm "returning to the drawing board" k

 

[Go2Guy]

Technically....

you don't need a seal as the 300 input is sealed- and there are applications running around this way with either gaskets or rtv between the housings- AA can verify. I prefer to have a seal so there is a primary and secondary sealing of the two units- could luck and keep us advised.
Ken

 

[cmk]

My goal is to not have to modify the AX15 in any way. I want to keep the mods to the d300 so that I can turn this into something I can do for others without needing them to send me both their t-case and tranny housings as well as their first born.

I did find that the major o.d. on the d300's input housing will index quite nicely into a counterbore in the AX15's tailhousing (added support).

I'm gonna' try and get this straightened out before I take off for CO on friday. But knowing me, I probably won't get it done for a couple weeks (school projects).

cm "got a hot date with Roxy" k

 

[DE Jeeper]

I am going to have my d300 apart in a week or 2.... What do you think the machining would cost me if I sent you the front half of the case? If you can't do it, I figure I will buy a clocking ring.

 

[cmk]

I am going to have my d300 apart in a week or 2.... What do you think the machining would cost me if I sent you the front half of the case? If you can't do it, I figure I will buy a clocking ring.

Before I start making promises, I need to get all the bugs worked out. I thought I had everything taken care of, but thanks to some insight on behalf of Go2Guy, I found a couple more things I have to take care of.

As far as an estimate on the machine work, check your PM's.

cmk

 

[ausjeep]

love to hear some more on this when you get it sorted....very interesting

 

[Johann]

Hey CMK,

Neat project. The DEO flip kit that you know and love addresses the problem with the input housing. Thought I would mention it to see if it will work on your application.

They have you remove the stepdown nose of the housing that holds the seal and replace the regular bearing with a sealed one. I think I have the part # written down somewhere if you need it. That might negate the indexing that you mentioned but it is one way to go if you need it.

 

[siebert]

The DEO flip kit that you know and love addresses the problem with the input housing.

JB Conversions also sells a new input gear retainer that will clear the tailhousing in a 95 and up NV-4500 that is shallow like the AX-15. I believe they use a sealed bearing and eliminate the seal and reduce the length of the retainer.

 

[Go2Guy]

different animal

The AX15 has deeper depth issues the the typical nv4500 install (and many others). Most applications are easily remedied with a 5/16" clocking ring- the ax-15 needs closer to 7/8 or whatever solution CMK comes up with.

 

[Blitzed]

The two populer trannys for flips;aw-4, ax-15, both need a .875(7/8") spacer. Did you happen to measure the thread depth once you moved the holes on the 300? Why I ask Is there is only about 5/16 of material once you get outside of the embossed theaded sections. Very cool that you are trying to come up with new ideas! Even with the spacer you still end up with the same spline engagment as a stock 300 application.
GO2 has any one said that I sent them over?? I have been sending you all applications except the .875 ones that I can help them with.

 

[Go2Guy]

Blitzed- actually.... No. But that said as a small business man trying to fund a comp team I appreciate all the help I can get- PM me your contact info and specialties so I can reciprocate.
Thanks,
Ken

 

[Blitzed]

Blitzed- actually.... No. But that said as a small business man trying to fund a comp team I appreciate all the help I can get- PM me your contact info and specialties so I can reciprocate.
Thanks,
Ken

We are both small business...but hey we try! Sorry didn't mean to hijack the thread. I will stop

 

[4Bangler]

Nice work...."hopefully" my Novak adapter on the back of my SM420 will not require any of the input retainer clearance measures you're dealing with and I "know" there's sufficient material to re-drill my adapter rather than the case, but I am very interested in your efforts none the less.

What have you come up with for shifting? I seem to recall the mention of pneumatics...(cm"pneu-guy"k) Any progress on that avenue?

 

[cmk]

Blitzed and Go2 are right. In order for the d300 to clear the AX15 without any additional machining, you need a minimum of a 7/8" spacer.

I thought about the idea of using a bearing with a single side oil seal this morning. I wasn't aware that DOE was already doing just that. While that idea sounds good, I think an actual oil seal would do a better job of sealing the unit up tight.

With the interest this has sparked, I'm gonna' stick around work late tonight and try to get this thing done.

Thanks for all the insight!

cmk

 

[cmk]

What have you come up with for shifting? I seem to recall the mention of pneumatics...(cm"pneu-guy"k) Any progress on that avenue?

In the interest of getting my rig done before my August trip out west, I'm cutting every corner I can which means the pneumatics will have to wait. For now, I'm going to shift it with the same lever and cable setup that Klune-V uses.

cm "quick and dirty" k