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The search function isn't very useful on this subject, and yeah, I thought this was a Newb question too ... until our local pro gear and locker installer is now 0 for 3 in the differential cover sealing department.
I thought you weren't supposed to over tighen so as not to squeeze it all out when using RTV but he's been using the new grey silicone stuff and has been torqing the crap out of the cover nuts "to get good metal to metal contact so it won't move around".
... now I just got through trading a torn shaft seal leak for another cover leak :( :shaking:
I want to try one of the new "LubeLocker" rubber on metal gaskets on my 44. They are suppose to be clean, reusable, nor leak if the cover moves ...
but even one of those won't help me on my new shaved D60s.
Are paper gaskets really that bad? Or is it the surface clean up their worst part when you have replace them?
And how about the silicones?
Anyone want to give thier opinions on what methods and materials work the best on a flat based skirt cover prone to take a lot of hard knocks?
 

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Ahh, finally Sceep has come to the dark side.

Yes, The Right stuff is all you need, and tighten the bolts all the way. I have sealed 2" dia holes in diff covers on the trail with this stuff. And the guy drove the truck 5000miles before we fixed the hole, without a single leak.
 

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Puffdragon said:
Ahh, finally Sceep has come to the dark side.

Yes, The Right stuff is all you need, and tighten the bolts all the way. I have sealed 2" dia holes in diff covers on the trail with this stuff. And the guy drove the truck 5000miles before we fixed the hole, without a single leak.

hahahhaa,, yet.. when i slam some parts thru my diff cover in moab, puff forgets that they have a can of it in the BJ.

:flipoff2:
 

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A guy on a local message board I followed tried one of the fancy shmancy lube locker gaskets and he said it leaked out the fluid over night sitting in his driveway. Sounds like you're better off with the gasket sealant.

A friend works at the jeep dealer and swears by mopar gasket maker. I've had good luck with it so far. But the "right stuff" sounds pretty good from what they are saying.
 

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PERFECT timing for this, got a nice leak on my shop floor right now....

thanks!!
 

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The 2 very best brands of sealant are, in order:

1) Factory GM RTV (black)
2) The right stuff.

Note - DO NOT use the GM stuff on something you cannot either heat or apply some serious force to to seperate - the stuff is incredibly strong. I sealed 203 doubler box to tranny with it once and couldn't beat the 203 off with a sledge afterwards. Ended up having to run the winch cable underneath the rig, over the rear axle and yank the SOB off while smoking my 8274 - it let go with an enormous bang and flew across the garage (at which point my wife strolled up and remarked casually - why didn;t you just heat it a bit, hon?)

2) The right stuff is also excellent - DO NOT buy it in the pressurized whip-cream-style dispensing can - it's expensive enough as it is, and the propellant will run out before the stuff does - leaving it uselessly stuck in the can.

For both kinds I like the 1/2 size calking gun tubes
 

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another vote for the right stuff... It's running 0 leaks on my last 8 installs/lube changes.

Typically put it on a clean cover, let it sit while I clean the pig, install it to the point where it starts to goop out the sides, let it sit another 10 minutes, then torque to appropriate specifications.
 

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I have had *incredible* luck with the blue sensor-safe RTV.

First time in the parking lot of a casino in Laughlin, total cure time before adding gear oil: the time is takes to drink one margarita.

Second time in the street in fron of my house: 30 minutes before gear oil.

Not a drop of leaky. Amazed the heck out of me, but I swear by it now.

-tom
 

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SlamChops said:
never had a problem with rtv... :flipoff2:
Is the cover/housing bent or gouged? I've never had a single problem with good ol' blue RTV. ;)
 

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sceep said:
That stuff is EXCELLENT! It'll seal damn near anything you spooge it onto!

Edit: the way I do it is, spooge it on, and bolt it up. I only let it dry while I'm trying to figure out where the hell I put that fawking gear oil.. Never ever had a leak.
 

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Consider McKanica silicone sealants in their power gasket guns. See Mckanica.com. So easy to use since they come under pressure and dispense with their own built-in release valve and trigger. Resealable wherein you only loose what's in the end cap/tube.

I just had a new bearing/set up kit and Trutrac put in my TravelAll's rear D60. No leaks so far with the original stamped steel cover or at the axle flanges, both using McKanica Black Silicone Sealant with paper gaskets. (I had the shop use my power can)

In my small Montana city (60k) I can find it in an auto paint supply store and a couple auto parts stores.

Walt
 

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RTV works just fine for me... Ive done everythign people say they've done with the super stuff... I think people arn't taking the time to let the RTV skin over before squeezing it out. You should be able to touch it without it sticking to your finger before you put it back on. Then let it sit for a few more minutes before putting the lube in... The tack time is temp. and humidity dependant. Might help to read the instructions on the RTV tube :)
 

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BillaVista said:
The 2 very best brands of sealant are, in order:

1) Factory GM RTV (black)
2) The right stuff.

Nope....you forgot one......Toyota FPIG Black. I have used it for years and it has never leaked one drop.
 

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The Right Stuff is good, but a little pricey. Ultra Black is just as good and way cheaper.
 

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I used to also swear by Toyota FPIG for all parts, but at $20 for a wee little tube from the toyota dealer, I now go for the Right stuff as well.
 

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Keith said:
The Right Stuff is good, but a little pricey. Ultra Black is just as good and way cheaper.
I've had good luck with Permatex Ultra Black.
 
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