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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever since I installed mine in my TJ, the rear will pop out of gear when I let it idle down hills in low range. Someone has told me before that this is normal because of the way the gears are cut,( I have the Tera Lo 4:1 installed in it). Can anyone verify this? Does anyone else have this problem with it?
 

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Nope, it shouldn't be happening ...
I've had both a three gear and five gear Tera sets and neither did that.

Sounds like a linkage problem ...

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: Jaffer ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not normal huh? That's interesting, maybe I'll have to check out the linkage. IT's the new 5-gear tera set. It happend about 4 times yesterday in about 8 hrs of wheeling. It only happens when I go down hill and no other time.
 

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Originally posted by JasonTJ:
<STRONG>Ever since I installed mine in my TJ, the rear will pop out of gear when I let it idle down hills in low range. Someone has told me before that this is normal because of the way the gears are cut,( I have the Tera Lo 4:1 installed in it). Can anyone verify this? Does anyone else have this problem with it?</STRONG>
Jason, which twin-stick do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Its the advance twin stick made for the Atlas
 

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Yep mine does this as well. I broke an axle this weekend so I drove out in 2wd/low and it popped out several times going downhill. FYI I have the stock gears in the case, and a currie ts. I am fairly sure it is NOT the linkage.

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: Lance ]
 

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Originally posted by JasonTJ:
<STRONG>Its the advance twin stick made for the Atlas</STRONG>
Sorry, I have no experience with the advance
twin-stick. If it was a Currie one I would
have told you that's a fairly common problem
with them. Again, sorry I can't help.
 

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I have the Currie ts in mine and it does it every now and then going down hill, I thought it might be a clearance problem with sheet metal, but it is not if Lance has that same problem I believe he has no sheet metal around his twin stick
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So maybe it is the way the gears are cut then??

That's what I was told before, but I wanted to see if anyone else had the problem. <IMG SRC="smilies/rasta.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by Lance:
<STRONG>I should also mention I have not had this problem in 4wd low. Only in 2wd low.</STRONG>
Hmmmmmm... It will happen to me in 4-low sometimes too. Usually when going down a hill I just hold the shifter in place
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There is an idea <IMG SRC="smilies/rasta.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/clown.gif" border="0">
 

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I am running the same twin stick as you, and mine pops out going down hill sometimes but not very often. Also I know several people with the Currie twin sticks and they have to bungee cord their to keep it from popping out. Hope this helps.
 

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are you all running standards or is this somthing you have experianced with an auto to
 

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Assuming the 300 shifter rails are similar to the D20 shifter rails, you could shim up the spring on the detent ball. This would tighten up the detent and maybe prevent it from popping out of gear.
 

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Mine does this too. It's REALLY fun when you throw it in reverse-uphill-wheels turned, and don't know the rear's popped out. Bye-bye front end.

-J
 

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Hummm ... sounds like a mixed bag of reports so far.
Some pop out going up, some just down, some in both FWD and 2WD ...
The Spring & Ball/Rod Indent suggestion has some merit...
I've torn down a few D300's and some have slightly longer springs on one rail than another. But on one unrebuilt unit the springs were the same length but the bores were of different depths. The front output's spring bore is more shallow on the '80 unit I just measured, as it was in my '83. This leads me to believe more spring/ball tension was designed into the the front output shift rail ... to preclude a front low pop out problem?? Especially if the springs were switched out of ignorance upon rebuild...
Anyway, so far from these reports, it seems there are pop out problems in a number of situations. A worn out T-18 3 speed trannie does the same thing ...
Any one having to 'bungie' their shifter stick needs to delve into their problem further but from what I'm getting from those instances both axels were involved in half the cased reported any how.
A dual stick isn't going to help hold a D300's front or rear clutch sleeve (collar) in place on one end of the shaft or the other to prevent it from slipping off unless the dual sticks are really stiff or they feature an indented or other style of hold/stop. A Currie is and has neither.
Plus, there is no helical gear cut forces applied to either clutch sleeve that I can see. They act just like a hub sleeve ... yet with no spring to keep it dis or en gauged.
There may even be some merit given to this phenomenon due to the fact that the front ouput clutch sleeve collar is in the rearward position at Low range and that gravity may even be an influence on the sleeve coming forward and disengaging in a severe nose down situation ... but that may be stretching theory a bit ...
I find it odd that other than Lance's case why anyone would be going down hill in 2WD Low very ofter in the first place unless one was heading for a severe turn??
Anyway, that's my chew on that food for thought.
Hell, what do I know about it any way.
It hasn't happened here either of my fresh rebulds as I said ...
<IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: Jaffer ]
 

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Jaffer nice post seems that you know your t-cases. The only thing i have to add is i have seen and have a currie set up on the shelve and it is a very nice and very sturdy set up and i wonder is the weight of the stick set up along with as jaffer mentioned the worn out or miss-placed springs would have somthing to do with it. Just my $0.02.
<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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When I was putting the D300 in my Wrangler, I was told to make sure that there's no endplay in the front output shaft and if there is, to remove shims from under the plate at the back of the tcase to eliminate any endplay or the front stick would pop out when descending hills in low range.

I ended up pulling a couple layers of shim out from under the plate, and it doesn't pop out. I don't know that this is the cause, but it could be?
<IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 
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