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Discussion Starter #1
I started test fitting the 350 this weekend. I have AA motor mounts and have them adjusted to the proper width now. I have had to do some slight relocation/bending to get the block back far enough. I bent the brake lines where they come off the firwall on the passenger side back to the firewall and had to remove and relocate the little bracket that holds the clutch line. The real question is how low/high did you mount your motor (how much of the AA mounting bracket sticks up above the frame, if any), and at what angle front to rear did you mount your engine? I know that the answer to this will vary somewhat with the transmission that is used. I am using a NV4500 and it has a tall tower that will need all of the 2" body lift I have already installed. Lastly are there any other gremlins I should know about that you ran into.
 

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How much was the AA motor mounts. A body lift will help you get enough room for the distr. Get it as far back as possible to help you get clerance for your water pump/fan twoard radiator. Get the motor as high as possible so if you do X-over with minimum lift the "draglink" won't hit the pan (use rear sump). Good luck
 

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Hey Shaker you're running a Chevy 350, right? Did you use a rear sump from a specific vehicle or just any old rear sump pan? Also any oil pump problems?

Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Shaker. I am using an MSD distributor so that I can get the block further back than the HEI distributor would allow. Still I need some info on angle and mount height if anyone has it. As far as price goes for the mounts, I think they were around $100. Don't remember the exact price as they were part of a larger order.
 

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Originally posted by Bigguy:
<STRONG>Thanks Shaker. Still I need some info on angle and mount height if anyone has it. .</STRONG>
Since I the PO installed the engine I'm not sure what mounts he used so I can't help you there. If you tell me what you mean by angle I can measure mine. As far as height goes do you mean bottom of engine relative to the frame, cause I can measure that too if you want.

Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The angle I am referring to is the tilt of the engine inside the compartment. If you put an inclinometer on the valve cover and record the degrees of tilt front to rear and then do so for the frame by the engine mount, I can figure the your angle, even if you are on uneven ground. Also the height of the exposed firewall above the base of the distributor clamp would be very useful.
 

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Originally posted by Bigguy:
<STRONG>The angle I am referring to is the tilt of the engine inside the compartment. If you put an inclinometer on the valve cover and record the degrees of tilt front to rear and then do so for the frame by the engine mount, I can figure the your angle, even if you are on uneven ground. Also the height of the exposed firewall above the base of the distributor clamp would be very useful.</STRONG>
Ok, I can't do it until tomorrow afternoon though so I'll post the numbers tomorrow evening.

Milan
 

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I built my own motor mounts, that made it way easier. I just got everything set about where I wanted it and with the motor hanging there I built the mounts to fit.
 

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Bigguy-
I wasn't able to find a clinometer last night, but I did measure from the top of the distributor to the top of the firewall, that's 5.5 inches. Keep in mind though there is no body lift on my truck. I'll try to get a clinometer.

Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Milan, but I think I got it handled. Last night I built a mock transmission from some old plywood I had lying around. Took about 30 minutes and tomorrow I will hook test fit again, only this time with the mock transmission for a guide. Should be easy to do this way. Thanks for all the help.
 

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One thing that you may not notice until you actually have the engine in. The heater hoses come out right behind the distributor and bracket it. You might want to figure out a way to reroute them. I've been a bit worried about the extra heat on each side of the dist. and it's a bitch to change the wires. Godd luck.

Milan
 

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Originally posted by FattyCBR:
<STRONG>Hey Shaker you're running a Chevy 350, right? Did you use a rear sump from a specific vehicle or just any old rear sump pan? Also any oil pump problems?

Milan</STRONG>
YEP I don't run anything else!!!! Any rear sump pan will do. I always put high volume pump on my motors too (helps top end on dry starts). I just built a 383 for my "Project 4 Runner".... Never any oil pump problems...
 

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Originally posted by FattyCBR:
<STRONG>One thing that you may not notice until you actually have the engine in. The heater hoses come out right behind the distributor and bracket it. You might want to figure out a way to reroute them. I've been a bit worried about the extra heat on each side of the dist. and it's a bitch to change the wires. Godd luck.

Milan</STRONG>
Here is my engine compartment on my 93 on the "Sig pic". As you can see it has plenty of room from top of distributor. I also use a mallory Unlite dist. to get more clerance to firewall....<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/355cid-2a.JPG">
 

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Originally posted by Bigguy:
<STRONG>Thanks Shaker. I am using an MSD distributor so that I can get the block further back than the HEI distributor would allow. Still I need some info on angle and mount height if anyone has it. As far as price goes for the mounts, I think they were around $100. Don't remember the exact price as they were part of a larger order.</STRONG>
I used a set of "Weld in" mouts that Downey has for the lancrusier 350 installs. I welded them flush with the top of the inner frame. I have plenty of room under the pan for my "homebuilt" X-over/Hi-steer on my 60...
 

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Originally posted by Shaker:
<STRONG>Here is my engine compartment on my 93 on the "Sig pic". As you can see it has plenty of room from top of distributor. I also use a mallory Unlite dist. to get more clerance to firewall....</STRONG>
God Damn that is a nice looking engine bay <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> I am drooling with envy. You should see mine, talk about cramped. Plus it's all oily cause I have bad blow by, etc. That was definetly a good idea having the "remote" mount distributor. I may have missed it but what's your running gear. I currently have a TH350 with a slip yoke NP205 and am having a bitch of a time finding a bolt on yoke so I'm considering swapping something else in. You can email me if this is a bit too off topic or if you have a webpage with this info.

Thanks,
Milan
 

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What did you use for a radiator. I am getting ready to swap a 350 in to a 92 pickup and looks like it will be hard to fit it in front of the motor. Currently I have no heater to worry about in the truck so I probably can get the motor as far back in the engine compartment as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, I have the engine test fitted and the mounts spot welded to the frame. But there is something very odd, the mounts are not mounted the same distance from the front cross member. In fact there is a 3/4" difference between the two. I lined up the face of the bell housing to square it up with the tunnel. Then adusted the height of the driver side mount and spot welded it. Raised the engine slightly to move the passenger side up and the checked the square of the bell housing again. It was fine. Spot welded the passenger side mount, removed the engine and looked at the mounts and could see the difference. Any body got a clue what I'm doing wrong?
 

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Originally posted by Mike Baggerman:
<STRONG>What did you use for a radiator. I am getting ready to swap a 350 in to a 92 pickup and looks like it will be hard to fit it in front of the motor. Currently I have no heater to worry about in the truck so I probably can get the motor as far back in the engine compartment as possible.</STRONG>
I'm using a 98 Chevy 'Burban radiator and mounting it in the bed with a built in oil and tranny cooler. You should be able to find pictures of how other people mounted theirs on here.

Milan
 
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