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Cliffs: Truck blew head gaskets, I ordered a kit to replace gaskets, ARP studs and egr delete. Finally got everything installed, truck took forever to get started, and it is smoking(white/blue) really bad. I only ran it a minute or so, could it be water in the exhaust that is burning up? I called the only diesel mechanic in town other than the dealer to see if he would take a look at it. He said that since I did the egr delete kit, he legally could not touch my truck, wtf? He also said that without the egr, I would burn-up valves and head gaskets more, again wtf? What says the PBB?

un-abreviated story: In September I was headed back to Wyoming from the Dakota Territory Challenge in South Dakota, pulling my camper and my Jeep. The Jeep and camper weigh about 12,000 lbs and the Black Hills are only about 90 miles away. I was about 75 miles into the trip when I noticed my temp gauge was pegged, I pulled off the road and a big puff of white smoke came out the exhaust. I opened the hood and there was coolant everywhere. I called a friend with a lowboy to come and tow my truck home, when he got there I refilled the puke tank and tried to start the truck, but it was hydra-locked. Apparently the anti-freeze blew out the top of the degas tank, indicating head gaskets. I ordered ARP studs, gaskets, oil cooler, and a SCT tuner. I have not been able to work on it until this weekend do to work schedule. I got everything installed, and it took literally several battery drains and recharges to get it to fire up, and it smokes like crazy. I am hoping that it is just water in the exhaust that is burning out.

Thanks
-Troy
 

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Changed oil, cleaned the intake, did not take the turbo apart and clean it, I inspected the block best I could with it still in the truck. Just crawled underneath it and water is dripping from the muffler, I am hoping that it is just the water in the exhaust that is causing the smoke.
 

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Did you have the heads resurfaced or checked? On vehicles where the headgasket literally blew, I've never replaced the head gasket without dropping the heads off at the machine shop. I also use a snap-on straight edge & feeler gauges to check the block. I like a perfectly clean and straight surface.. It's just not worth my time to simply replace the head gasket without resurfacing.

On a positive note... The smoke could be from the last time you blew the headgasket.. ?
 

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x2 what Pic_jon said... I'm my research on the 6.0L, it doesn't do well with blown head gaskets and overheating, in that the heads easily warp or crack. A preemptive repair tends to hold up well and prevent damage down the road. I was in a similar situation with my RV project in deciding what to do.

We replaced the EGR in mine before I drove it back to NC (from tx) and after the repair it blew tons of water out the tail pipe as well as steamed a good while.

Note: There were tons of other improved/updated parts that should be installed if your that far in. Almost all the orings in the stand pipes and high pres. oil system have been revised or improved. They help with the hard starting etc.. Turbo drain tube and other seals/gasket updates..

Good luck..
 

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Hard starting could be compression, glow plugs (relay or harness), injectors, bad fuel.

White smoke could be from water still in the exhaust system, or cold engine. If the engine hydrolocked it could have some some damage (cracked heads, bent crank, etc.) If the oil pressure is good and you don't hear anything funky I would let it run enough to warm up and see how it starts warm.
 

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What did you do for the EGR delete? Did you just weld it up?

You also will pull a P401 code for low airflow to the EGR

I have pulled everything apart on mine several times, besides pulling the heads. There are alot of variables on the 6.0, however how did it run when it started? Was it running rough?



Have you done these steps:

Check the clips on the injectors, make sure they are installed and tight.

How long has it been sitting? try draining the water seperator and add fresh fuel.

Look for fuel leaks under the filter assembly for the under hood filter.

Look under the turbo where the oil tube goes from the turbo to the cooler and check for leaks. Those hardlines can be a pita if you don't lube them.

Make sure all your connections are tight on the FICM

Also what year is your truck? Each year of the 6.0 had different and common issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's a 2004, it has the updated intake and high pressure oil rails. I bought a Sinister EGR delete kit from MKMCustoms along with head studs, oil cooler, oil screen, gaskets and o-rings, and an SCT tuner.
I found a loose clamp the hose between the MAS and the turbo, tightened it up and the smoke almost went away. I went for a ride, after 5 miles the smoke completely stopped. The smoke was more of a light blue than white this time, but it went away. I think it was the oil/water trapped in the exhaust/muffler. I drove 30 miles, the truck ran great. The engine sounds different to me though, sounds like an air leak around the turbo somewhere. I sprayed a little starting fluid around the intake side of the turbo, no change in idle. I can't decide if the air noise is a bad thing or just different than before. I will try again in the morning when everything is cold, se how it starts and runs then.
Thanks for the help.
 

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Do you have a boost gauge? Its common to not get the Turbo clamp seated correctly which will give loss of power and a hissing noise
 

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If the heads weren't at least checked for flatness, you wasted all that time.

Heads resurfaced /problem.
 

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Do you have a boost gauge? Its common to not get the Turbo clamp seated correctly which will give loss of power and a hissing noise

Like he said, check the clamps and the Y-pipe, a gear wrench 10mm swivel 90* works great on those. I'm betting you had shitty stale fuel or not enough oil pressure from the HPOP to start it.

Also IIRC the FICM has to re-learn and there is some procedure for the turbo. I never did it.

Also if anyone reads this, i used liberal amounts of anti seize on everything. It's also a good time to clean up the turbo and add anti seize to the variable vanes on the hot side. There is a TSB for the turbo reconditioning.
 

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It always takes a long time to start them after having the oil system apart. And they do tend to smoke after major repairs, just burning the oil/coolant out of the intake/exhaust.
 

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Started it this morning, started easy, no smoking and it was about 17* outside. Found the exhaust leak, it was the v-clamp onn the turbo for the up/Y pipe, what a pain in the ass.

Anyone have thoughts on the mechanic saying he could not legally work on it with the egr delete? He said I would have to return everything to stock before he would touch it. Sounds like he was just being a douche, since I did the work myself.

-Troy
 

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Anyone have thoughts on the mechanic saying he could not legally work on it with the egr delete? He said I would have to return everything to stock before he would touch it. Sounds like he was just being a douche, since I did the work myself.

-Troy
I sold a tuned and deleted 6.7 cummins to a friend. He ended up blowing the motor. He had it towed to the cummins shop and they said the same thing. Before they would work on the motor they wanted to sell him and install the EGR/DPF and stock exhaust:shaking:.
 

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I've got 4 powerstrokes and 2 of them have egr delete setups. Call Josh at RiverCity Diesel in East Peoria, they will work on it. He is great with powerstrokes and will do anything from stock repairs to 800hp motors!!
(they have had 3 or 4 on the cover of Diesel Power Magazine in the last 2 years)
 

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take off the license plates and say it's a pulling truck, farm truck, race truck.
we had some work done on a 6.4. in order for the work to begin the plates couldnt be on truck since it was now a "dedicated pulling truck"
 

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I didn't read every post, but every time I changed an injector it would smoke heavily for 15 minutes of driving. If it runs properly and oil is clean, drive it.
 

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Anyone have thoughts on the mechanic saying he could not legally work on it with the egr delete? He said I would have to return everything to stock before he would touch it. Sounds like he was just being a douche, since I did the work myself.

-Troy

Just about every Ford Diesel mechanic in the world does side work...go find one and get this shit fixed for 1/2 price.


These trucks really arent that bad, just a few mods and they do work. Mine has 240k, is a 04 and is really hard to beat.
 
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