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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My wife's daily driver is a 2000 XLT with 4.0 SOHC/Auto. No mods.

Thursday night while coming to stop in a parking lot the truck all of a sudden died. It was running fine and gave no warnings.

I have been working on it since then, along with a few buddies. There is no Check Engine Light on. I have tried scanning it for codes and have not come up with any.

We have spark-plugs and wires have less than 1k miles and a brand new coilpack. While grounded to the block with an open plug there is a nice light show.

The original battery was tested and failed so we installed a new battery.

I know we have fuel-40 psi at the rail. Injectors are getting their signals-I them tested with Noid lights. The light was nice and consistent.

I tested the cam position sensor. We got 1.5 volt input. The sensor is working properly, we have a changes in measurements when we pass a piece of metal across it.

I haven't test the crankshaft sensor yet.

We tried to start it a few times and nothing. Cranks but won't fire.

Tried to start it with starting fluid down the throttle body and nothing.

Pulled the fuel filter and drained the tank thinking it was bad gas or something. So it has a new fuel filter and 15 gallons of fresh gas.

After all this I pulled the plugs to see what they looked like. They were all soaked with fluid. I dried them all off.

Here is the strange part-the middle plug on the pass. side had the electrode bent all the way down so that there is no gap anymore. The plugs and wires were installed by a local shop-I didn't have time to do it at the time. I am not sure if the garage damaged the
plug when they installed it or I have some major issue with the motor.

Thats where I have left it. I am at a loss for what could be wrong at this point.

Any and all help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Pat
 

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There should be a button by the passenger side footwell. It shuts the fuel off in case of an accident, but i heard slamming on the brakes too hard can do it too. But since you have pressure at the rail, that is unlikely. when you try and start the car, does the "theft" light blink rapidly? if so, you may have a problem with the PATS system. Try using a spare key. The chip fell out of my key one day and i couldnt start my truck. It would crank and crank and crank, but no start. replaced the fuel pump, filter and pressure regulator to no avail. Finally i noticed the theft light blinking more rapidly than normal, opened the book, saw it was a PATS thing and tried my second key... started right up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No Anti-theft light is blinking rapidly. That was one of things that we looked for.

The inertia switch is not triggered. You are right if it was there would not be fuel to the rail.

I am completely stumped.

Thanks for the help.

Pat
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The scanner I have hasn't picked up any codes.

The Check Engine Light is not on nor has it ever been on.

This has been the head scratcher for everyone that I have talked to.

Thanks
Pat
 

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I had something like this happen to me.
Have you tested the coil? We had a coil go bad that ended up nuking the ignition module too.
New electronics do fail, so the new coil pack may have kicked the bucket. I would still check it.

I don't know if Ford has test procedures on the module, so I can't help there. I ended up swapping out the module w/ one from a salvage and getting a new coil.

BTW, A code reader only helps if the check engine light is on, unless you have an extended one that allows you to go into the capture mode. Mine allows me to check voltages and operating data while a vehicle is running.
 

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Maybe a timing chain issue? I can't remember if the 4.0 SOHC is free wheeling or not. If it's not a free wheeling motor a bad chain or tensioner might explain the smashed in spark plug.
 

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Maybe a timing chain issue? I can't remember if the 4.0 SOHC is free wheeling or not. If it's not a free wheeling motor a bad chain or tensioner might explain the smashed in spark plug.
Good point, the tensioners start going out around 130-180k (depending on how much abuse you put it through:D), but you know when they start going out. Its a very distinguishable rattle. and your truck will putt around for a few thousand miles letting you know it needs repair. OR at least thats what happened in my case.

I also reread your original post and i see that starting fluid didnt work. When i had problems with my PATS system, the truck would run on starting fluid, so that is definitely eliminated. It is really weird that you have spark but it won't run on starting fluid even.

Going back to the timing chain thing, if your truck was a little rattly (sounds like you have pennies in the catalytic converter) then i guess it may have jumped time, but how unlikely would it be for a chain to jump time.... Have you tried putting your problem on explorerforum.com? lots of knowledgable people with explorers over there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I haven't posted on exlporerforum.com. Maybe I will copy and paste my opening post there and see what other ideas they can come up with.

Thanks again
Pat
 

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Maybe a timing chain issue? I can't remember if the 4.0 SOHC is free wheeling or not. If it's not a free wheeling motor a bad chain or tensioner might explain the smashed in spark plug.

Please explain how a bad timing chain makes the piston stroke long enough to smash the correct plug for the engine.

Edit: Sounds like the shop put in an incorrect odd-ball plug or they didn't notice the smashed electrode after dropping it, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
All of the plugs are the same. I compared them all when I pulled them out. All the same model number and the same length.

I scanned it tonight with a friends scanner. No soft sodes either. I tested the scanner on my car and it picked up codes without my CEL being on. I have something else to fix now :(

I am going to work on this for a couple of days then I am hauling it to the dealer.

Thanks
Pat
 

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Right about the timing chain, I was thinking valve contact not spark plug contact :shaking: I was typing before thinking it through. Maybe it's the fact that I've seen a lot of these have timing chain concerns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well we checked the motor last night and we have no compression on the passenger side bank. Which is also where the one spark plug got smacked. So at this point I don't know if I have any bent valves or damage to the piston. But I am assuming either the chain or the tensioner let go.

At this point I am going to pull the motor. I just need to decide if we are going to pickup a junkyard motor or a reman'd. I don't want to get involved with tearing this motor down and fixing it.

Thanks for all the help and I will post up when I pull the motor.

Pat
 

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Jaspers will run you around 3800, and the motor + install from Ford was 5800(came with new EVERYTHING though (except upper intake). I let Ford do it because i thought they would be quick..... took them 2 weeks, so it wasn't bad. If I could do it over, I think I would have done it myself with a jasper. they both come with 3year/36k mile warranties. Besides not having to fix the truck myself, the only upside was if something went wrong with the install, I had someone to blame besides myself. Good luck sir.
 
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