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Discussion Starter #1
Yeh, this sounds like typical newbie shit, but I haven't been able to find a lot of discussion about this. Perhaps my dim-witted imagination is not coming up with the right keywords to search.

I'm planning a mild YJ build with Ford axles (front HP D44). I've flip-flopped several times over choice of engine/tranny but I've pretty much decided on a SB Chevy with a 700R4. I've got two cases - a Ford NP205 and a Ford EB D20. I still haven't decided which one I'll use. They both have big-ass intermediate housings. Does anyone know if the adapters replace these housings, or just add to them. Any info on the overall length of either the 700R4/FordNP205 or 700R4/EBD20 combo? Pics would be nice if you've got em.
 

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Either will work fine, but the 205 low range sucks. I'm not sure as to the availability of lower gearsets for the Ford 20, you may want to check and then decide. I use a Chevy S-10 NP231 with factory adapters and I like it.... and 2.72 low range. Haven't broken one yet, but have a spare just in case.
 

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Hmmm, I never considered just using the S10/Blazer transmission & transfer case. I'm not a big fan of aluminum chain driven cases, but I could probably find this combo quite cheap. I recall reading somewhere the Chevy 231 is a bit beafier than the Jeep version. Does the Chevy tc output to the drivers side? Does it have a slip yoke like the YJ or a conventional yoke?
 

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The chain is wider than the Jeep version. I used the S-10 adapter, transfer case, and shifter. I also used an Advanced Adapters 32 spline output for a YJ to get rid of the slip yoke (pretty cheap). This retains the stock YJ speedo drive and gives me the CV yoke. Replace the front output yoke with that off a dana 44 pinion to get rid of the straps and bolts, and you're set. I ran this with a dana 44 HP and now I use a dana 60 HP.

One thing to note, the S-10 case is clocked lowerthan the Jeep case, so you either have to mount it higher or modify your skid plate around it. Mine is mounted higher, but due to driveline angles I may be moving it down and cutting the skid plate around it.
 

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Since your considering the 231 how about a 241? It came stock w/ the 700r4 and can be had either left or right hand drop.
 

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241 is much more difficult to put in a YJ. I've done it, and you lose driveshaft length in the rear and the way it's clocked it really hangs down.

IMHO, NP231C is the way to go in a YJ being built with 1/2 ton running gear. I'm running it with 1-ton stuff and haven't broken it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
FNG said:
At least for the D20, the AA adapter does away with the factory adapter and is only 2.5" long.
Thank John, that's what I was hoping for. I don't know how the 700R/231C compares to the AX15/231J for overall length, but one of my goals is to lengthen my rear shaft. I assume that the 700R/EBD20 would be a few inches shorter than the 700R/231C even with the 2.5" adapter.

I think I'll stick with the EBD20 so I can go twin stick. I could buy the AA adapter for not much more than a SYE for the 231 and I'm more comfortable with the cast iron than the aluminum case anyway.

Thanks for the info guys.
 
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