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Discussion Starter #1
Since I'm cheap and poor I was thinking of pulling a late 70s Ford tierod with built in draglink (like the Jeep set up) so I don't have to get all new knuckle arms or rods. I figured this would be beefier than the stock tie rod and would save me big bucks. Any thoughts?

Milan
 

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Originally posted by FattyCBR:
<STRONG>Since I'm cheap and poor I was thinking of pulling a late 70s Ford tierod with built in draglink (like the Jeep set up) so I don't have to get all new knuckle arms or rods. I figured this would be beefier than the stock tie rod and would save me big bucks. Any thoughts?

Milan</STRONG>
Friend of mine tried to use one on his FJ-40 and he bent it, With his lift and the down force on the tierod from the draglink it bent.

[ 09-20-2001: Message edited by: Mr. Safety aka OOPS ]
 

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So he bent it driving around or was he really getting it? I seem to remember Frosty? welding up his own single hole arms to use this type draglink. I'm surprised no one else has tried, I guess I'll have to try it on my own. I was thinking the Ford rod-ends would be nice and beefy compared to the Toy's. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

Milan
 

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i looked at some of my bronco stuff and the 78-79 models used less of a y and more of a cross over except the ball joint is machined into drag link on the pass side arm- maybe that would eliminate the down force- apparently we are the only people that cannot afford 650 for some decent steering setups <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> have fun in va <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> seth
 

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Originally posted by FattyCBR:
<STRONG>So he bent it driving around or was he really getting it?
Milan</STRONG>
One he bent just driving down a dirt road, the other he bent rock crawling. The biggest problem with his was where the DL was connected to the tierod it was about a foot away from the tierod end and his DL was at to much of an angle so it was pushing more down then across. On his 40 he was spring over plus 2-3" lift springs and if he had moved the DL mounting point over any more the DL would have hit the springs when it was flexed.

[ 09-21-2001: Message edited by: Mr. Safety aka OOPS ]
 

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On a spring over Toy the draglink gets way too steep due to the offset of the draglink-to-tie rod connection point. Not a good way to go.
Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by dirty boots:
<STRONG>i looked at some of my bronco stuff and the 78-79 models used less of a y and more of a cross over except the ball joint is machined into drag link on the pass side arm- maybe that would eliminate the down force- apparently we are the only people that cannot afford 650 for some decent steering setups <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> have fun in va <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> seth</STRONG>
Seth-
I think maybe we just like coming up with cheap ideas that work well enough for us
to get by <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> .

Aaron, Seth and I haven't fully figured this out, but after looking at our stock rods and springs we figured that since we were going to have to narrow the tierod anyway we could optimize the connection location. Another thing I was thinking was the possibility of swapping the knuckle arms from side to side and seeing if they would be high enough to clear the springs (kinda like Hy-Steer). Who knows maybe we're just <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> too much gear oil.

Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by Mr. Safety aka OOPS:
<STRONG>Have you seen this on making a double arm, it's not hy-steer but it is X-over.Go to the tech site and click on double steering arm.
http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/main.html</STRONG>
Actually I had seen that and I've seen that else where (maybe here). I guess I was just worried about the whole welding aspect in terms of breakage and increased complexity. Plus then I'd have to buy an upgraded strength tie-rod and draglink, which is already a bit beefier using the Ford stuff. I'm just trying to brainstorm this whole thing through because it really chaps my ass that the cost of cross-over components are over $700. That just seems outrageous for two CNC arms and two high strength steel rods and ends. I'm just bitter that's all. To me it's a situation of the companies know that there are only a few x-over providers, therefore they can charge a really outrageous price. But hey, that's supply and demand, right? <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0">

Milan
 

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Originally posted by FattyCBR:
<STRONG>Actually I had seen that and I've seen that else where (maybe here). I guess I was just worried about the whole welding aspect in terms of breakage and increased complexity. Plus then I'd have to buy an upgraded strength tie-rod and draglink, which is already a bit beefier using the Ford stuff. I'm just trying to brainstorm this whole thing through because it really chaps my ass that the cost of cross-over components are over $700. That just seems outrageous for two CNC arms and two high strength steel rods and ends. I'm just bitter that's all. To me it's a situation of the companies know that there are only a few x-over providers, therefore they can charge a really outrageous price. But hey, that's supply and demand, right? <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0">

Milan</STRONG>
I have built one for a friend and he has been running it for two years without a problem.
 

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that double arm is a totally cheap idea.

i like!

when o switch all i have to do is get the steering box!

has anyone broken it like that? <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Milan[/qb][/QUOTE]
I have built one for a friend and he has been running it for two years without a problem.[/QB][/QUOTE]

Do you sell them? I'm not going to buy one immediately, but I'll be interested in the near future. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

Milan
 

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Originally posted by FattyCBR:
<STRONG>Milan</STRONG>
I have built one for a friend and he has been running it for two years without a problem.[/QB][/QUOTE]

Do you sell them? I'm not going to buy one immediately, but I'll be interested in the near future. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

Milan[/QB][/QUOTE] Nope!!! As far as an upgraded T-rod and DL, there is a cheap upgrade for that also. Get yourself some CM tubing that has the same ID as the TR & DL OD drill some small holes 1/4" or so, chamfer the outside of the holes with a countersink, slip it over the stock DL & TR and rosette weld it to the stock TL & DL. It is not as strong as the after-market ones but it is a whole lot stronger then the stock ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Milan[/QB][/QUOTE] Get yourself some CM tubing . . . .[/QB][/QUOTE]

What does CM stand for. That sounds like a good idea, especially since the outlay is low. Thanks for the help.

Milan
 

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Originally posted by FattyCBR:
<STRONG>Milan</STRONG>
Get yourself some CM tubing . . . .[/QB][/QUOTE]

What does CM stand for. That sounds like a good idea, especially since the outlay is low. Thanks for the help.

Milan[/QB][/QUOTE]Chrome Moly
 

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I plan to get a arm from marlin and then maybe rockstompers rods. Not sure on the total cost but it will be a lot cheaper then $700 <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
 
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