How much side to side angle does it accommodate? When the axle articulates, the entire trailing arm will want to twist - first at the axle end joint, then at the front mount, which will rock the entire "boat" around the lower shock mount, which will need to articulate enough that the heim doesn't bind up and bend the shock shaft (BTDT).Once the spacers were made, we inserted them in with the shock and got them centered.
Looking good, Damian.But instead of using our normal 2.250" (3/8" wall) DOM, Tom had us make it out of 2" (.120 wall) DOM. We didn't need all that beef since this rig won't be seeing boulders. The upper link is 1.75" DOM as our normal, but only .120" wall instead of .281".
The tricky part was connecting the two together. Tom wanted to connect the tubes together as close to the frame-side joint as possible to minimize any possible chance of bending the links from the torque generated by axle wrap. Our normal links connect near the center of the lower link ~ Tom was worried that the thinner materials combine with the forces of off-road racing may generate enough 'push' to actually bend the lower link at the connection ~ so we pushed that point as far back as possible. This also spreads any such loads out over the length of the arm, not just at the one point.
Not much at all actually. You'll have to check and make sure the jam nuts at the frame don't come loose to keep the lower link straight. That being said ~ the sides of the arm can be hogged out down to the double-wall thickness for more 'angular' action. I was thinking of doing that just because, and there will be no strength problems by doing it.How much side to side angle does it accommodate? When the axle articulates, the entire trailing arm will want to twist - first at the axle end joint, then at the front mount, which will rock the entire "boat" around the lower shock mount, which will need to articulate enough that the heim doesn't bind up and bend the shock shaft (BTDT).
Thanks. I was hoping you'd like it. Just need to put that motor in now and finish the rear up. As you know, the cage is coming along but I'm waiting to finish that until the motor is in. I'll also be finishing up the firewall mods at the same time.Looking good, Damian.
Man, I'd hate to ~ I like the look of tube ~ and honestly, I don't think there's going to be enough strength gain in it to make a difference, but regardless, I've got some dimple dies coming to do just that. I think we'll do both sides and then leave small drain holes near the 'connecting tube' for cleaning.Before you call them done, plate one or both sides with some light gauge sheet steel. No more than 1/8" mild.
Hey man, waddya know ~ great minds eh?By plating at least one side, we amplify that strength advantage. If you have some dimple dies, here's your chance to put a dimple in either side plate...
Oh man, you had me at 'hello'It would look fast,
Good stuff. That engine looks oh so sweet too. I wish it had an aluminum intake, but save that favor for a 345 or a 392 :evil:In unrelated news, the 304 lives again, and runs OK so far. Still a bit of the "new engine, I'm cranky" going on, but by the end of Saturday that'll mostly be gone after I do a "run it like yer gonna" break-in on the race course in Cascade - just like we did the first time this engine was put together. I was making passes down a drag-strip in Brighton, CO and after a couple passes we had to jet the carb up because the rings seated some more and it was pulling more vacuum.. repeat after a few more runs..
Next I have to say a BIG THANK YOU to Mike @ IH Only in Lancaster. He's the guy behind the RPT line and he hooked us up with some of his finest.
You can always tell a successful line of product when you see you have #2930!
LOL.Oh, and pick some colors man, these arms are getting powdercoated ~ and no, you don't have a choice in the matter
Thanks, looks a bit better than it used to! It didn't help that a month after it was built it took a bath in an alkali mud pit that ate all of the paint off..Good stuff. That engine looks oh so sweet too.
:nod: With the 345/392 under way, I didn't want to buy a 304 4bbl intake for the stop-gap / backup engine, but I do intend to ask Mike about a beer-can intake for the next one.I wish it had an aluminum intake, but save that favor for a 345 or a 392 :evil:
There's also the track in Powell that isn't too-long of a hoof from Denver. Take your wife n' kids to the rodeos in Cody, or cruise into Yellowstone while you're in the area. Plus, 4.5 miles at speed can be fun. Robert's GF had a good time, despite some 2-wheel action, last October.We're going to have to get Rob to fly me up there with his cheap tickets so I can drive this thing at least once when its all put together. I'll even have you take me for a real lap to scare me a bit.
I want to divide it up such that if you add up the corners, it equals the wieght of the whole vehicleSo, what are the plans for weight distribution, corner weights and front to rear on the new ride? Got scales?
Because this is a Scout ~ not a truck...DUH! I do what I'm told (mostly) ~ Engine mounts included. It would have definately made mounting a little easier...but hey, when is building scouts supposed to be easy?
What do you mean? Tom and I have talked about sleaving the bottom for more strength ~ is that what you're talking about?Also, your gonna want to build some sort of skin for the lower tubes. The trophy ranger has .120 chromoly links and after 500 miles of pre-running they looked awful. No failures but it has since been beefed up.
Good enough for 852 = good enough for me?
Looked awful as in - dings from rocks and such?Also, your gonna want to build some sort of skin for the lower tubes. The trophy ranger has .120 chromoly links and after 500 miles of pre-running they looked awful. No failures but it has since been beefed up.
Work on corner balance and put as much as possible between the axles and low as possible too. Just doing that will make the truck feel way lighter to steering input. Much more nimble and controlled. It won't feel like a Scout.I want to divide it up such that if you add up the corners, it equals the wieght of the whole vehicle
But really. I don't have any 'goals' per say. I'm moving the engine back completely behind the front axle ~ moving the radiator as well. lightening it up as much as possible and if needed, wieghing down the back a touch with spare tires and such. With stretching the rear axle back and moving the front axle forward, I'm really not sure what the net effect will be. I'm sure it'll fly better than stock ~ how much? Don't know.
Any ideas before I make engine placement permanent? Anyone?
Diva-la-Mandera! ~ you know, I may just have to make a sticker that says that ~ that is, if it means 'Mandera the Diva'Good enough for 852 = good enough for me?
Mike was good enough to sponser us, and they've been really good for you before, so my thought is to keep them. What's the downside of having good urethane RPT mounts? I'm not sure the chassis vibrations will be bad, but I know they may be annoying ~ expectially as the engine sees the next few years abuse and starts vibrating more.Hadn't really occurred to me. I have this far that solid mounting leads to fatigue failure from vibrations, but I have nothing solid to back that up.
OH TELL ME we're getting some quarters soon. I've got the rear end mocked up and trussed and I was just thinking how nice it'd be to have some quarters to build the rear cage work around.When will that race-glass be ready?
I'd like to see as close to that as possible. I wish we had $$ for aluminum links, but still, as close to that as possible (emphasis on lower).On the weight.. the old car is 3800lbs....I suspect the new one will be heavier when we're done, with extra rollcage, the extra wheelbase, and other upgrades, though I hope it won't be much more than the current 3800lbs mark.
Indeed. We could put a LS1 in there ~ and a narrowed Jeep liberty front clip and call it a 'jeep' RockRacer!An LS1 would sure help with that, but it'd take away some of the charm (huh?!).
Since the new car wasn't ready in time, I had to go flog the old one today.
Great picture. Nothing like beating a rig and capuring it on video/camera. You seem to have a knack of capturing that angle makes me think ~ 'we'll need more tubing'. Can't amagine what got you in that position, but link me the video when you get the chance ~ I wanna see!
Your up against a 460 with an IH304? Holy crap man, time to get that 392 built! It may not rev as high as the 304 but it'll build power sooner.Only good enough for 2nd place in the Comp-Mod obstacle, while I was seriously outgunned in the baja even before I threw the power steering belt and then melted the shifter cable on the headers and got stuck in 1st gear. I have a hard enough time competing with 460-Ford Class 8 trucks when the Scout is at 100%, let alone handicapped. Hopefully that'll change with this new chassis.
Great to know.Motor's doing fine though. Rings have done some seating.
Dude I hate that. When I borrow stuff, if it breaks, I take care of it. People who don't make me mad. My buddy barrowed my trailer once and brought it back with no wiring ~ turns out he didn't make sure the wirirng wasn't rubbing the ground while in motion and the whole thing got trashed. I made him replace it ~ never was 100% after that.loaned my trailer out a week ago, it came back broken
Moving the motor back as much as we are should push allot of wieght to what is currently looking like a weight-free rear end. Not sure how much to put back there but I'm thinking the front should be a little heavier but not much.Work on corner balance and put as much as possible between the axles and low as possible too. Just doing that will make the truck feel way lighter to steering input. Much more nimble and controlled. It won't feel like a Scout.
Where would you put the transfercase and how would you deal with the short rear driveshaft?If I were to do one, the trans would be separate from the engine and far back as possible. With engine plates, an easy task.
Mmmn... Accumulator. Hey Mr Race guy ~ got one to lend out?Also since this rig will really be flying low, do you have an oil Accumulator since you have no dry sump?
How did you acheive that ~ besides going with a chevy mill.:laughing::grinpimp:You know on my rig, I only have an 300# difference between the front and rear axle weights with a 1/4 tank fuel, the 8274 on the front and with driver.