[Nowhere]

I'm wondering if that would work. I've got vibrations on heavy acceleration in 4 wheel drive. I can grab hold of the d/s and shake it up at the slip joint area (I've got a 3/4" spacer? maybe 1" on the front pinion) and move it around a little. I'm wondering if I unbolted the d/s and put the slipyoke (female end) end down at the front pinion/pig/differental if that would cause any harm/damage or any negative things to happen.
Seems if water got into the remaining slipjoint space it'd just get whooshed out by the d/s if it were to compress to the max.
I searched, but too vague and gave up.
I've seen Jeeps and other makes that have the shafts like that.
I don't think weight would be an issue, either way both the lower and upper flanges support the weight of the d/s.
Any input?
It looks like it'll fit reversed under normal driving conditions, I've been told it's possible for the d/s to hit the cross member under full droop...

 

[UZI 9mm]

I'm wondering if that would work. I've got vibrations on heavy acceleration in 4 wheel drive. I can grab hold of the d/s and shake it up at the slip joint area (I've got a 3/4" spacer? maybe 1" on the front pinion) and move it around a little. I'm wondering if I unbolted the d/s and put the slipyoke (female end) end down at the front pinion/pig/differental if that would cause any harm/damage or any negative things to happen.
Seems if water got into the remaining slipjoint space it'd just get whooshed out by the d/s if it were to compress to the max.
I searched, but too vague and gave up.
I've seen Jeeps and other makes that have the shafts like that.
I don't think weight would be an issue, either way both the lower and upper flanges support the weight of the d/s.
Any input?
It looks like it'll fit reversed under normal driving conditions, I've been told it's possible for the d/s to hit the cross member under full droop...

1-how much lift have you got?

2-how many times have you driven your zook? (is it "new" to you)

3- define "hard acceleration"

4- if d/s "shakes" is it at the slip yoke splines or upper u-joint actually?

reversing it won't do it any good if the splines are toast or the u-joint/s is/are buggered. Just unbolt it and make sure- I'll bet it's just the upper u-joint.

when I did my SPOA I could not even *move* in 4x4 let alone "hard accelerate" until ditching the d/s spacer and putting in a TT extended slip yoke, and clearancing the yokes/ears with a grinder.

At that, the vibes are what I call brutal, and kill u-joints about every 3-4 trips out. Just too steep an angle for the stock d/s.

 

[godzuki]

and also make shure your u joints are in sync.if they arnt that will give one hell of a vib.

 

[Douglas]

With 7 inches of lift and a one inch spacer on the stock front shaft I only feel vibration at 20 mph. When I put my perches on top I rotated them about 3 degrees (friend helped). No problems because I don't go faster than 5 mph on the trail. Sounds like your ujoint is bad if less than that in lift.

 

[Nowhere]

I'm wondering if that would work. I've got vibrations on heavy acceleration in 4 wheel drive. I can grab hold of the d/s and shake it up at the slip joint area (I've got a 3/4" spacer? maybe 1" on the front pinion) and move it around a little. I'm wondering if I unbolted the d/s and put the slipyoke (female end) end down at the front pinion/pig/differental if that would cause any harm/damage or any negative things to happen.
Seems if water got into the remaining slipjoint space it'd just get whooshed out by the d/s if it were to compress to the max.
I searched, but too vague and gave up.
I've seen Jeeps and other makes that have the shafts like that.
I don't think weight would be an issue, either way both the lower and upper flanges support the weight of the d/s.
Any input?
It looks like it'll fit reversed under normal driving conditions, I've been told it's possible for the d/s to hit the cross member under full droop...

Standard 4.5"/5" Spring over, nothing else for lifting.
Had the zook for 3 years, 2.9 Spoa , I don't remember driving stock!
ha!
If I am running, oh I dunno, 10mph in like 4x4 2nd low (4.16) and then (not floor it!) give'er a good bit of gas, everything shakes.
My analigy is that the rotational force from the transfer case onto the slipjoint is causing the entire driveshaft (the combination of the upper slipjoint and lower portion of the d-shaft) to not be straight. No it's not bending anything.
I'm thinking if I switch the orientation, there will be NO play in the SOLID driveshaft up at the transfer case side [vs the driveshaft and slipjoint junction], it'll be down low but it seems the vibes would be less. Joints seem fine, no binds, nice and loose. The u-joints do not bottom out.
With 2wd operation and the front hubs locked, I can get to maybe 35 or so, in 4wd (hi/lo) I can get to about 20 if I'm gentle on the gas.
The slipjoint does have up/down/l/r play if I shake it, I'm seeing if I can move the vibrations down to the front vs. the t-case.
Just wonderin'

The u-joints are solid and the slipjoint does have play.

 

[kd7srj]

look on the yokes on the t-case end of the driveline see if its shiny (use a flash light) from binding up or hitting on the crossmember when i was running 35's with my wrangler springs and missing links it would bind and rub the crossmember at the same time when i would accelerate because on the weight transfer it would make the front axle droop more causing the contact .....the correct way to remedy this would be to put a cv joint on the t-case side ( expencive )and clearance the crossmember and reinforce the bottom side of the crossmember with a steel plate .......or just lower it a few inches like i did

that's my 2 cents worth because i dont know s#1t

 

[kd7srj]

oh yea check your t-case mounts make sure they arent broken pry on them a little and be sure they are still intact and it they are gas or oil soaked replace em ...gas and oil makes em swell and rot





:flipoff2:

 

[Nowhere]

Mounts are just fine, forrest offroad bucket in there. No crossmember hitting with the d/s in the normal stock position, looks nice and gross just like everything else near it. The shaft never bound at the joints or on the x-member.
I need to test this and make sure it'll be a good fix. I could see how this would NOT work with a taller lift, there's not much clearance at full droop.

Well it worked! Very well too!
Here's what I did.
Removed the d-shaft and spacer, jacked up the front end so both wheels are off the ground
and the suspention is at full droop. Tried the d-shaft reversed with the 3/4" spacer still on the pinion, no go, gently hits the crossmember.
Removed, installed the 3/4" spacer on the transfer case and it clears!
About 3/8" or so at max droop.
I then jacked up the left side of the body till the drivers side wheel was at full droop and the wheel was off the ground.
Lots of clearance.
Now for the test to see if that did anything or not.
hubs locked (mind I have a locker) 2wd high crusing about 15~20, slide'er into 4x4, little vibes, accelerate, litte more vibes, keep going, more vibes, 35mph and I still have my teeth!
I have not goosed the throttle though, seems this will be a good fix for my bad front end vibration after about 10~15mph problem.
Granted though, I have not trail tested this though! I'll have to check frequently to see if the d/s has kissed the cross member at all, especially when I get twisty!

 

[kd7srj]

good deal !



faithfully

 

[Nowhere]

HA!
:flipoff2:

 

[UZI 9mm]

good deal !



faithfully

sorry, either your linking skills suck, or your sense of humour eludes me.

"seriously" link and "faithfully" link both go to Burt Reynolds, and back/catalogue, and from there random pics.

what are you trying to say/do

 

[Nowhere]

he's flicking the bird silly :flipoff2: