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Discussion Starter #1
My plan is to build a stout front axle for my TJ but keep it as stock as possible to not loose any of the good road manners my Jeep has (daily driver).
Starting with a used JK Rubi housing I want to pull the axle tubes and install D30 Tj Axle tubes.
Than I will built a sort of a light truss for the long sided tube and some reinforcement brackets for the C´s and LCA brackets. This will give me a good ratio between strength (for 37”tires) and weight.
As the housing came with the original electric-locker from the Rubicon I will use this together with a 4,56 ring & pinion and some custom Ten-Factory JK shafts to have the bigger U-Joint.
To use the outer shafts I will install JK Rubicon unit bearings with the tj bolt pattern drilled on.

This is the Jk D44 ring gear next to the Xj D30 I used before:


The step i did now was to drill out the welding-spots on the housing.
I could drill out one easily but not a few others… I think I will try to drill a small hole next to the weld and than try to cut it out with the plasma!


 

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That seems like a LOT (make that shit ton) of work to still have what is essentially a D30. Why not just truss the axle (C to C) and run it?
 

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That seems like a LOT (make that shit ton) of work to still have what is essentially a D30. Why not just truss the axle (C to C) and run it?
im confused at how its essentually a d30? The jk housing has a larger ring gear (in picture) more splines, bigger ball joints, bigger ujoints (then tj d30 and older d44) if anything its a beefier version of the older d44. The tj d44s are the ones that are almost exact matches to the tj30

Edit: forgot to cover the thin tubes and weak Cs but thats the only downfalls i can think of....especially with a locker for 1200 and 120 in a sleeve and inner c kit
 

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"Starting with a used JK Rubi housing I want to pull the axle tubes and install D30 Tj Axle tubes."

Why would you do this :shaking: Thats a lot of work to put in very WEAK tubes and then truss it to compensate. Why not just get one of the many kits to sleeve the JK tubes and be done. The weight difference would not be an issue because you would have all the extra weight of a truss with the crappy 30 tubes anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The major problem is the width, the jeep cant be street-legal here in Europe if the tires are sticking out. Having a Plorer 8.8 in the rear thers to mauch difference. I bought the JK housing without outer knuckles brakes and so on, just the housing with locker and R&P.
I was thinking a long time to go directly 1-ton, but my tire size is limited do to keep the Jeep streetlegal, so i opted for somthing inbetween the polished HP D30 i had for 4 years, and D60s.
My D30 held up verry well, but the R&P gave up last winter, i never had a broken alloy shaft or u-joint so i know its definetly a weak point no metter what axles im trowin in.... and it broke with 36" At´s on snow...
Maybe now u guys can understand my build a bit better!
 

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why not a FSJ dana 44? wagoneer style, same width and run 5 on 5.5 hubs from a ford, then redrill your 8.8 shafts and run 5 on 5.5 front and back

seems like a ton of work to essentially make a weaker waggy 44.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I was thinking about the Waggy front too, but i couldnt reuse my rims, brakes and steering. And i wanted a HP housing cause of the higher driveshaft and stronger gears
 

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why not a FSJ dana 44? wagoneer style, same width and run 5 on 5.5 hubs from a ford, then redrill your 8.8 shafts and run 5 on 5.5 front and back

seems like a ton of work to essentially make a weaker waggy 44.
besides the tubes and Cs how is this a "weaker waggy 44"

those problems are solved by less then $150 worth of parts

Where as the larger spline count, high pinion, and bigger ujoints of the JK hp44 seem like pretty big strength increases to me?
 

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why not a FSJ dana 44? wagoneer style, same width and run 5 on 5.5 hubs from a ford, then redrill your 8.8 shafts and run 5 on 5.5 front and back

seems like a ton of work to essentially make a weaker waggy 44.
Have you seen a JK 44 pinion? it's nearly the same size as a 60. Plus there is the HP factor. JK 44's are way stronger than other 44's.
 

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Have you seen a JK 44 pinion? it's nearly the same size as a 60. Plus there is the HP factor. JK 44's are way stronger than other 44's.
Holy crap someone finally agreed with me on pirate. Next someone will mention that besides the bigger balljoints, a waggy 44 is more work for a tj then a xj hp30.
 

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I know a ton of guys that have pollished their 44's to the point that they only brake R&P's. I bet If they were to use a JK center they could easly run with out problems. I have one customer running 40's under his 4 door JK. I built him a 35 spline 60 for the rear after he started braking chromo 33 spline 44 shafts. He has RCV shafts and the factory locker in it, so far he hasn't had any problems. He also has the AA crawl box and the stock rock-track with 5.13's so he is geard really low.

On a side note....
I have always wanted to retube a JK front through in some 35 spl RCV's, use spidertrax 60 outers and shave the crap out of it. I bet you could run 42's under a light weigh rig pretty easy. And have an axle that weights around 400lbs.

When I say shave I mean wack it good. Here is one of the 60's I did that has more clearance than a stock 44. I bet I could get the JK44 to more than that of a 30.

 

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^are you kidding me? according to that picture, the jk pinion is hardly any bigger than the TJ(you'd have to break out a measuring tape for me to see the difference), and it's no where near a 60 pinion. not even close to the 8.8. You were even the person to take the picture.

and why would you bother doing all this, when you can narrow a D60 to be street legal. It would probably cost just as much seeing as how rubi D44's are really expensive.
 

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^are you kidding me? according to that picture, the jk pinion is hardly any bigger than the TJ(you'd have to break out a measuring tape for me to see the difference), and it's no where near a 60 pinion. not even close to the 8.8. You were even the person to take the picture.

and why would you bother doing all this, when you can narrow a D60 to be street legal. It would probably cost just as much seeing as how rubi D44's are really expensive.
I guess that you are blind or dont know where pionions break. So here is another picture to make things a little clearer.




Who cares about street legal... and you can run full width axle and still be street legal.

I am talking abour an axle that is as strong as a 609 and has the clearance of a 30 with the weight of a toyota. I havn't done one just thought it would be a cool axle. I have nerrowed 60's under my rig so I'm not debating that 60's are king. Just that the JK 44 has a much stronger R&P than older style 44's. And that with the after market parts available for the 44 you can build a hella strong 44.

Not everyone needs 60's. I have a bunch of friends and customers that run 37's, 38's, and 40's on 44's. Yes som of them brake 30spl shafts and R&P's on accasion. But with a 60 under their rig's they would be digging trenches everywhere the go. Or they could keep their weight low and ground clearance high like it is and build something like I mentioned. I'm just saying that there are differant setups that are outside the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thats right Action Fab, Not everyone needs 60's!
For my Jeep, tire size and for our terrain in europe i think it will be a well balanced frontend. I never had problems with the balljoint on my D30 neather with the housing or unitbearings (i thhink UB on the Jk Rubi are bigger, arnt they?)

I know about the TNT truss and its very nice, but what i explained before, i have no JK outhers and brakes coming with the axle, so it will ad a bunch of money and i will end up with a much wider axle comparing to my rear 8.8....
 
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