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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
FACTS about the studs ARP makes exclusively for Front Range.

The studs, both hub, and knuckle (steering) use higher torque specs. These higher torque numbers allow the user to experience MUCH greater strength benefits. If the fasteners are only torqued to stock numbers, the fasteners will offer little upgrade

Installing these studs WITHOUT upgrading the nuts is pointless. By not upgrading the nuts, the low grade stock nuts will strip out at the higher torque used with these fasteners.

These are some of the reasons why our studs are in kits, and tested through rigourous REAL world use in trail rides, and competitions.

This is posted here, since many of you folks never head into vendor world.

EDIT:
Knuckle stud nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs
Hub stud nuts should be torqued to 28-30 ft-lbs.
Both studs should be installed snug into the hub or knuckle, only the nut should be torqued.
 

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Maybe post the stock and ARP stud torque specs for comparison and reference...?
 

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And the torque specifications are?............
that would be a handy piece of information as I am halfway throught installing them myself
 

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These studs and their hub studs should be mandatory equipment for any toyota crawler that doesn't want problems. Thanks guys for keeping us going!
 

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Brian,

You should put an installation sheet with torque specs in all your stud orders. My first set I had no idea what to torque them to so I went with stock specs. I ended up breaking two of them. I later figured out that I needed to torque them tighter. The way I figured that out was from my countless hours of web wheelin.:shaking: A lot of people wouldn't know what to torque them to eighter. Just my .02 and thanks for supplying us with great products!:beer:
 

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Stock is 71 ft. lbs and Biran posted on here in another thread, 110 ft. lbs. for the ARP studs and nuts.

Personally, I had a problem with the nuts. Two of them started on straight and when it got to the locking part it galled the stud and the nuts went crooked and cross-threaded the stud. When I took them off the next time, the threads were stripped off both studs.
 

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My OTT steering arms are thick, and I'm having issues with getting all the thread of the nut onto the stock stud. These from TG are a little longer then yours and say they are made by ARP.



Not to start anything, but is there any difference in strength between your and TG's??? They list "ARP 2000 material and is hardened to 220,000 PSI" What are yours?? I'm just trying to get the best studs I can for my rig.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dimensionally ours were made .125 (1/8") longer than stock. What you dont want to hear, is for the cone washers to do their job properly, they need to be nearly hitting the knuckle when tight. If the arms arent tapered deep enough, the cones and stronger studs will only delay the inevitable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Torque numbers added to the first post, as well as to the description in our invoices.
 

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My OTT steering arms are thick, and I'm having issues with getting all the thread of the nut onto the stock stud. These from TG are a little longer then yours and say they are made by ARP.



Not to start anything, but is there any difference in strength between your and TG's??? They list "ARP 2000 material and is hardened to 220,000 PSI" What are yours?? I'm just trying to get the best studs I can for my rig.

Thanks.

I have OTT arms and Front Range knuckle studs for 3 years, no problems. I have alittle more than an 1/8" of stud sticking out of the nuts.
 

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EDIT:
Knuckle stud nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs
Hub stud nuts should be torqued to 28-30 ft-lbs.
Both studs should be installed snug into the hub or knuckle, only the nut should be torqued.
Just snug? No torque specs for tightening the stud into knuckle? With a snug stud and a lock nut torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs wouldn't the studs want to release from the knuckle first when you need to pull the steering arm? So did I just make a mistake making my new set very tight into my knuckles?:(
Now you've got me worried...
 

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Just snug? No torque specs for tightening the stud into knuckle? With a snug stud and a lock nut torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs wouldn't the studs want to release from the knuckle first when you need to pull the steering arm? So did I just make a mistake making my new set very tight into my knuckles?:(
Now you've got me worried...
if i remember correctly, the arm stud holes in the knuckle are through holes so you couldn't torque them anyway, you'd just be forcing the non threaded center of the stud against the threads in the knuckle. the torque can be translated to the compressive force on the cone washer, and the tension in the stud since you are pulling it apart. as long as you have full engagement of the stud threads in the hole, there would be no reason to torque the stud even if you could.

edit* in any threaded fastener, the torque directly correlates to the tension on the fastener. in the case of a stud, there is no tension if only one end is threaded in something.
 

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Just snug? No torque specs for tightening the stud into knuckle? With a snug stud and a lock nut torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs wouldn't the studs want to release from the knuckle first when you need to pull the steering arm? So did I just make a mistake making my new set very tight into my knuckles?:(
Now you've got me worried...

Red Locktite is your friend. I cleaned the threads VERY thoughorly, and then installed the studs with liberal red locktite, and have had zero problems ever since. And I have the nuts torqued to 120. BTW, I have some of the original All Pro welded steering arms, set up for heims.
 

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Red Locktite is your friend. I cleaned the threads VERY thoughorly, and then installed the studs with liberal red locktite, and have had zero problems ever since. And I have the nuts torqued to 120. BTW, I have some of the original All Pro welded steering arms, set up for heims.
Have you ever backed off the nuts since you installed them? Did the studs come out with the nuts? I would think with the 'locking' part of the nuts would make it snug enough to take out the studs, even with locktight.
 

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Have you ever backed off the nuts since you installed them? Did the studs come out with the nuts? I would think with the 'locking' part of the nuts would make it snug enough to take out the studs, even with locktight.
any hardware will stretch and fatigue over time, ultimately causing failure. i think this is the one important factor people seem to ignore or dont understand. realistically you should be verifying the torque has held over time and in replacing the hardware in the event that it needs to be tightened more than an 1/8 of a turn to reach torque.

EVERYTHING ON YOUR RIG IS A WEAR ITEM, end of story.
 
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