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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We've been busy around here, and have had a chassis now since April. We've gotten new processes in place, and are now on top of the entire works. So what better to do than build a new rig?!

We're starting with our old 85 EFI truck, Im sure many of you recall. It has sat, been scavenged, started rebuilt etc over the last 3 years.

From previous life
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
As it sat, ride height with 40's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its last trip out, was bit rough. I blew a 4.88 pinion head in half, and was reminded that spring clamps are a good thing.

This was a 6 leaf pack. The bottom one was broken clean off. Hooked over a rock, and had to back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
A few other tricks were done here. A little bit of tubbing....

FYI, the sheetmetal is up for grabs, PM if youre interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just one of the reason the stock mounting of tcase crossmembers is not on our favorites list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This was a standard cab/short bed truck. It was replaced with an extra bed with 9" cut from the front, and 11" from the rear. We moved the gas tank up, had to hammer the top of the tank to do it. However the "horsecollar" xmember barely cleared with the 2" body lift, so this was the solution. The 2 peice crossmember was cut from another frame, fully seam welded together, then notched and plated, and welded in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Before the cab was installed, the rockers were sut when it was tubbed. The back side was cut out, and the outside panel (normally visible at ~45 degrees). The outside was folded into what was left of the inner ~1/2" and welded back together. This truck was built to be low, and this allowed the sliders to be moved up a few inches, gaining needed clearance at the doors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The 40's didnt like where the battery lived, so one tire got jealous and tried to move in!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
After we yanked the body, bumpers, wiring, etc, we started mocking up one our our laser cut, IFS Box Mount Kits.

Youll notice on the 2nd pic, the sleeve butts to the outer plate, making it very strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This hideous cluster I am not dealing with. Its going straight to OffroadSolutions.com I think those guys know yota wiring better than the guys who built it! So off it goes for a stripped down, simple plug-n-play setup.
 

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Nice rig. Looking forward to more updates(pics).:beer:
 

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After we yanked the body, bumpers, wiring, etc, we started mocking up one our our laser cut, IFS Box Mount Kits.
I have a box mount kit from Marlin Crawler that looks similar, except it isn't cut diagonally at the ends. One thing I noticed is that the shape of the plate on the MC setup places the mounting holes at the factory positions when pushed all the way forward to the body mount. Is this also true of your box mount kit?
 

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I have a box mount kit from Marlin Crawler that looks similar, except it isn't cut diagonally at the ends. One thing I noticed is that the shape of the plate on the MC setup places the mounting holes at the factory positions when pushed all the way forward to the body mount. Is this also true of your box mount kit?
I placed mine in the same place as Brian did and it's foward of the stock postion. I had to drill new holes. Brian's kit is beefy.

edit: It worked out perfect, my axle is 2.5"-3" foward of stock.

Looking good, keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I have a box mount kit from Marlin Crawler that looks similar, except it isn't cut diagonally at the ends. One thing I noticed is that the shape of the plate on the MC setup places the mounting holes at the factory positions when pushed all the way forward to the body mount. Is this also true of your box mount kit?
Stomper nailed it. Ours is designed from an 85 runner (wife's old rig) with an IFS box mounted as far forward, and as high up as possible, without cutting the radiator support out. Of course folks have used it as a base, and cut the front for moving the box more forward even.

The angle cuts are for preventing cracks. They face different directions on each end of the different sized plates. This keeps loads spread out, not concentrated for, you guessed it, no cracks.
 

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I liked the old body/bed style. What are you going to do with the new one body-wise? Is that #44 an F-toy SN?

And do the new processes mean your r10 crossmembers will be shipping soon? :D

 

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I liked the old body/bed style. What are you going to do with the new one body-wise? Is that #44 an F-toy SN?

And do the new processes mean your r10 crossmembers will be shipping soon? :D

i think it is going to be f-toy #44 that he has had for a yaer or so:flipoff2:

edit; some how you hit your edit as i quoted you:flipoff2:
mike
 

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wrong forum fawker ... you going to be in globe?
 
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