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Discussion Starter #1
I am starting to prepare some things ahead of time for the front soa. I plan to clean up my stock 40 springs to be used in front. The previous owner used some sort of addaleaf in the rear pack for when he hauled a boat. The front and rear packs all have 7 leaves per pack, but the rear pack has 1 thicker leaf(the 3rd longest leaf). The rear pack also has a little more arch than the front pack probably due to the thicker leaf. Before I disassemble the packs and clean them up and repaint, I would like to get some input on which pack to use. I dont know if it plays any part in your thoughts, but I am already running 55 springs in the rear soa. Also, I am still undecided about doing a shackle reversal,but I do plan to at least flip the springs around to get better approach angle. So lets here it fellas. TIA
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, is there any problem using a grade 8 bolt and rounding off the head to fit through the perch, then using it as a spring pin?
 

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Hey Rusty, you aren't done with your SO yet???? <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
The best approach angle will be by doing a shackle reversal and flipping the springs. But you will have to do a little trimmin on the front fenders or lower your bump stops to keep your tires from rubbing.
I run the stock springs in the front. I have reversed them and kept the shackle where it was (and yes I had the military wrap moved). I actually removed two leafs out of the front pack to make it flex better. I also have the extended shackles. It seems to work just fine. Although I can see the springs starting to get a bit tired after only a year. I might put the #4 leaf back into the pack. You will really want to get some longer shock mounts. The old F250 shock mounts will allow a 14" travel shock to be run.
With the new 38.5" swampers I got the approach angle is very good. I think it is almost 80-90deg.

BTW a stock Lc either has seven leaves up front or six up front (later) and six or five in back.... So it looks like the big leaf that you are talking about is an add on...

And there should not be any reason why you could not just grind down a bolt head to use as a new spring pin. Although I think the replacement pins are like $7.00 for two...

Also, right now I am cleaning up my 55 springs and instaling teflon pads in between each layer to make the ride smoother. It might be cosmetic but every little bit helps...

<IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
 

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Zeus of the Sluice
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Originally posted by rustyb:
<STRONG>Also, is there any problem using a grade 8 bolt and rounding off the head to fit through the perch, then using it as a spring pin?</STRONG>

I personaly dont see any problem with running grd 8's as center pins.they are ceaper and stronger. I have been doing it for years with no problems. last year put a pack together with actual center pins because I needed an extended head to run through shims.
last week I swaped those springs out with 2 inch springs. The "actual"center pin was allmost half sheared. On the 2 inch springs I installed in their place, I used 5/16 grd 8 bolts (like I used to) with 2 nuts to work as an extended head. didnt even need to round the head. snug fit. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info guys. If I do decide to do the shackle reversal, how much travel or slip should the dshaft need?
Hey Jason, I have been waiting on steering parts before doing the front soa. We are trying to sell the house right now and the last thing I need is a rig that I cant even steer to put on a trailer. Hopefully I will be completing the soa in a couple of weeks or so. I am also getting into the roll cage project this week if my tubing arrives. Projects, projects ,projects and the wife doesnt seem to understand why I dont have time to do the home projects. Women huh
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jason, did you have any problems with the steering linkage when you moved the axle forward? I am running the sag box on the frame horn and have a great steering system alignment now. Will I need a shorter pitman arm or what?
 

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Originally posted by rustyb:
<STRONG>Jason, did you have any problems with the steering linkage when you moved the axle forward? I am running the sag box on the frame horn and have a great steering system alignment now. Will I need a shorter pitman arm or what?</STRONG>

I tell you it is a bit tight. But it works. I think the standard wrangler or cherokee arm will do just fine. It all depends on how much lift you end up with. Are you going to make your own steering arm or are you going to get a y type or full xover??? I tried All Pro's hysteer arms and they did not work. they are just weay too long. OTT industries made me a slick set of super burly arms that were a bit shorter than the AP ones. Initally I had problems with the steering linkage hitting the springs under full droop. Actually most of the front flex pictures that I have the tie rod was sitting on the spring. Cutting and turning the knuckles solved that problem quickly. Added some 55 springs (same as you have) and a set of extended shock mounts and now I flex like mad. For having leaf springs that is.
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

so yes the steering seems to work just fine with the geometry that you are thinking....
I have seen someone with a SR and the spring flip in the front use the stock draglink and tierod though..... He just used a seriously low steering arm. And he did not cut and turn his knuckles....

Jeese, houses, I feel you pain. I am building a new house right now. I think
that if it was not for the cruiser I would go mad!!!!!
The happiest day of the past two weeks is whne I got home and found my new 38.5's in the driveway. What a wonderfull sight!!!!


<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by rustyb:
<STRONG>Thanks for the info guys. If I do decide to do the shackle reversal, how much travel or slip should the dshaft need?
</STRONG>
My front driveshaft uses about 6-7" of travel from compression to full extention. Required the purchase of a 11"+ travel front shaft...I got a Tom Woods for mine.
 
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