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Discussion Starter #1
I bought this 1950 CJ3A with a Ford 302 V8 along with upgraded tranny, t-case, axles and pristine body/frame/paint job - from the looks of it - the guy before the PO who did the upgrades/mods seemed to know what they were doing. But the part I do not understand is - the front is spoa to clear the oil pan but the rear is spua. I've had a spua Samurai and spoa '85 Toyota pickup but never a mix of both on the same truck :D Is this a Jeep thing :p or something behind this setup? Thanks.
 

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SPUA is better at dealing with axle wrap.

Does it sit level?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Doesn't it also lower the roll axis in a good way making it more stable?
Yes, basically spua keeps center of gravity lower. Spoa will give it a lift but raise CoG. I don't if having the rear spua and front spoa causes any issues but I have never seen such a setup so just curious if I should leave it as is or can it cause any unintended issues?
 

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I'm guessing that's just how it ended up, without a grand plan. If it drives fine and the work done looks solid, I'd leave it unless you're itching to change it.
 

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I think hazel changed to rear spua on his flatly years ago in jp or 4 wheel and off-road. I almost went this way on my current build with ubolt flip.
 

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I think hazel changed to rear spua on his flatly years ago in jp or 4 wheel and off-road. I almost went this way on my current build with ubolt flip.
If I'm not mistaken, at some point or another Clampy was set up that way as well. Pretty sure I read about it a loooong time ago in 4-Wheel and off-road magazine.
 

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Yes, basically spua keeps center of gravity lower. Spoa will give it a lift but raise CoG. I don't if having the rear spua and front spoa causes any issues but I have never seen such a setup so just curious if I should leave it as is or can it cause any unintended issues?
I'm not sure about that. The roll center on leaf suspensions is based on the fixed and shackle mounting points. If both systems are of equal height there really isn't much difference then.
 
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