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Discussion Starter #1
i'm going to pick up a front D60 for my heep tomorrow, it's out of a '78 F350, my rear D60 is 63" wide WMS to WMS,
i wanted to know what would be a good width for the front, so it will work with the rear?(65.5"?)
also what will allow me to cut it down and use some off the shelf inner shaft/shafts, will just cutting down the pass side allow me to do this(ie: attain a width of about 65.5")
when i searched i did come up with some stuff, but i needed to know what width would work well with a 63" wide rear, also what side to cut and how much
Thanks!!
:beer: :beer:
 

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What year rear 60 do you have. Most of the fords are closer to 65". Why the hell would you want to cut it down? You must have tons of extra cash lying around to dick around with the custom shafts you will need. Keep it full width and get some 17's w/ 5" BS. I'm only a couple inches wider than my buddy with stock axles and 15x10" wheels.
 

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on a TJ, to retain the stock coil locations you need 65" Wheel to wheel, otherwise your coils would be riding the knuckle
 

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All kingpin, high pinion, dana 60's that Ford has put into there F250's, F350's, etc. are all going to be 69.25" wide. The differences come into play when looking at the 2 different year ranges.

78-79 and 85-91.5. The only difference that I am aware of is the 85-91.5 has 3" less tube on the driver side of the diff. To get either of these to fit into a TJ you first have to decide your width and whether you want to narrow 1 or 2 sides. If narrowing both sides, either will work. If you only want to narrow 1 side, you may be limited.

78-79 can be run full width with no problems, I just built a full width 78-79 HP60 for a friends TJ and it lines up no problems. Not sure how narrow this axle can be cut if only cutting 1 side.

85-91.5 needs to be narrowed to fit properly into a TJ because of the diff being offset 3" more to the driver side. My front 60 (85-91.5) was cut down on the passenger side only and is being run as wide as this axle can be run and still line up properly, 66.5". The narrowest this axle can be cut (if only cutting 1 side) is 64".

Does this jibber jabber make sense?
 

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If you have a 78-79 HP60, cutting only passenger side to 64.5" will not work... the driveshaft will be too close to the exhaust. This is according to the research that I have done when building mine.

I narrowed my 79 HP60 on the driver side by 2.75" and used spicer shaft PN 660182-1 (15.97"), it is at 66.5" now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well a width of 66.5" as BlueAngel mentioned is perfect, so thats it then? take 2.75" off the drivers side and get the shaft that BlueAngel mentioned... by doing this, is there enough room left for the coil perch on the drivers side? as i mentioned, this is out of a '78 F350...so that part# and cutoff measurement from BlueAngels 79 should work fine?
if so thats exactly what i want to do, i'd like to just cut one side so i only have to get one new shaft, all costs have to be kept at a minimum.

as for questions about the rear 60, its a HP D60 out of a 79 F350 as well, thats been tubed and built by steve at diff engineering, i had an insurance claim and it worked out well to do a custom axle...the front on the other hand is going to be a project that proceeds depending on funding....
 

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Sharp said:
well a width of 66.5" as BlueAngel mentioned is perfect, so thats it then? take 2.75" off the drivers side and get the shaft that BlueAngel mentioned... by doing this, is there enough room left for the coil perch on the drivers side? as i mentioned, this is out of a '78 F350...so that part# and cutoff measurement from BlueAngels 79 should work fine?
if so thats exactly what i want to do, i'd like to just cut one side so i only have to get one new shaft, all costs have to be kept at a minimum.

as for questions about the rear 60, its a HP D60 out of a 79 F350 as well, thats been tubed and built by steve at diff engineering, i had an insurance claim and it worked out well to do a custom axle...the front on the other hand is going to be a project that proceeds depending on funding....
I had no problems what so ever fitting the coil seat on the driver side. here are the exact measurement for you, I made my own brackets though.

The stock Spicer inner shaft (Part number 660182-1, cost me 175 CAD) measures 15.97". Stock short inner is 18.68". You nedd to shorten tube by 2.71".

HTH
 

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jeeplord said:
on a TJ, to retain the stock coil locations you need 65" Wheel to wheel, otherwise your coils would be riding the knuckle
I've heard of this but haven't really researched it yet as I'm currently building the rear (63") & plan on building the front to the same width. Is it just that the knuckles are so much bigger than a D30/D44 that they are more inboard on the tubes?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
THANK YOU SO MUCH GUYS! Thats perfect info BlueAngel, i can live with $175 for a new shaft, it's the gears and the ARB that are gonna be a kicker! but thats why this is a long term project!
Thanks again.
:beer: :beer:
 

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On a TJ, to retain the stock coil locations you need 65" Wheel to wheel, otherwise your coils would be riding the knuckle.

Is it just that the knuckles are so much bigger than a D30/D44 that they are more inboard on the tubes which doesn't allow room for the coils?
ANYONE?
 

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36" from center to center of coils in front of TJ. I have full width front 60. By looking at it you can only narrow it 6" at most and still retain the stock coil locations on frame.
 

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P&T Jeeps said:
I've heard of this but haven't really researched it yet as I'm currently building the rear (63") & plan on building the front to the same width. Is it just that the knuckles are so much bigger than a D30/D44 that they are more inboard on the tubes?
P&T;

My front is 66.5" and there is about 1/2" between the springs and C-knuckles, that is just enough space to weld the spring seat to the tube. I guess you could fab some spring seats that actually slightly ride on the knuckles, I would say that 64" is the shortest you can go.
 

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BlueAngel said:
P&T;

My front is 66.5" and there is about 1/2" between the springs and C-knuckles, that is just enough space to weld the spring seat to the tube. I guess you could fab some spring seats that actually slightly ride on the knuckles, I would say that 64" is the shortest you can go.
What did you use to mount springs on axle?

Here are some pics of the spring mounts I made. They are made out of 5" C-channel. Notice how the coils will mount offset a little bit.

If above link doesnt work, click here
 

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Jeepin' it looks like in you pics 56 & 57 there has to be close to 3" that could be taken out of the short side. I know you say fullwidth, but what was your axle out of, better it's WMS? If it in the 67" range and you can pull 3" out of the short side I just don't see why you can't pull another inch or two out of the other side to get it to 63"ish. What am I missing here?
 

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P&T Jeeps said:
Jeepin' it looks like in you pics 56 & 57 there has to be close to 3" that could be taken out of the short side. I know you say fullwidth, but what was your axle out of, better it's WMS? If it in the 67" range and you can pull 3" out of the short side I just don't see why you can't pull another inch or two out of the other side to get it to 63"ish. What am I missing here?
79 F350, 69"ish range

You can take 3" out of each side easily. If you look at the pics, three inches will get the spring mount on the edge of the tube, against the knuckle. You could be able to get an extra inch or two off the long side but part of the mount will be on the knuckle.
 

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Ok, now that I've got that, explain what exactly creates the difference in width than say a D44. Is it just that the distance from where the the wheel actually mounts is that much further outboard when measured from where the 'C' is welded to the tube?
 

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P&T Jeeps said:
Ok, now that I've got that, explain what exactly creates the difference in width than say a D44. Is it just that the distance from where the the wheel actually mounts is that much further outboard when measured from where the 'C' is welded to the tube?
If I'm understanding the question right, everything in the 60 is bigger than a 44. U-joints are bigger, therefore steering knuckles are bigger/wider. Same with hub and rotors. So, yes the distance from where the the wheel actually mounts is further outboard when measured from where the 'C' is welded to the tube.

Not only that, d60's differntial is bigger therefore has less tube than a D44 with the same width.

If needed I'll try to get some measurements tomorrow.
 

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P&T Jeeps said:
Ok, now that I've got that, explain what exactly creates the difference in width than say a D44. Is it just that the distance from where the the wheel actually mounts is that much further outboard when measured from where the 'C' is welded to the tube?
It really doesn't matter if you move the coil mounts in on the axle 3/4-1" or so, you will just have a slight bow in the coil. EB coils are longer than TJ coils, but this is done pretty regularly on eb's when running full width axles and radius arms (cept the coil buckets are moved out instead). Otherwise, this sounds like a perfect opportunity for coilovers or airshocks :D
 

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Jeepin' that's where I figured the difference came into play but I just wanted to confirm. tits!

Bewbie, I don't think I'll have a big issue w/ the coils as my current mounts are behind the tube anyway b/c of the front stretch. I'll just make an 'L' mounting bracket so the coil will sit somewhat behind/on-the-side-of the inner 'C'. I'll just have to make sure the caliper doesn't get into the mount on full steering lock.
 
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