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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok so here it goes. I thought before I get too far in my build to introduce myself. I really do not have much knowledge in building vehicles but plan on learning a lot in this build. If you have a comment that I can benefit from please feel free to let me know. I plan on building this up over the next year or so. I dont want to rush this and I dont have tons of cash to spend on it. I also plan on competing some, not the full series.

Here is my current truck. 86 4Runner SAS, 38.5 SX 30 spline front axle with cromo hub gears, hydro assist steering, dual tcases 4.7 in rear, marlin springs, square front drive shaft, 5.29 cryo gears ARB front and Detroit rear. Pretty much normal stuff.

This is the most recent picture of it, it is slightly different now, the roof has skin and more bracing on it:
 

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best of luck with your build.....if i'd have seen his thread about three hours earlier that chassis would be in tucson instead of phoenix :flipoff2:

good luck!
 

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Glad to see your getting going on it right away. Just take your time and read a lot of the build ups. TONS of info out there. One thing I would say right off is switch the ARB to the rear and put the Detroit up front.
I am reading up to build an F-Toy of my own...

This may be a F-Toy newb question, but I just have to ask why you are advocating the ARB in the rear instead of the front?
 

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I am reading up to build an F-Toy of my own...

This may be a F-Toy newb question, but I just have to ask why you are advocating the ARB in the rear instead of the front?
agreed, we are detroit front, ARB rear. turns tighter.
 

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Do you think that it turns tighter that dual ARB's Brian or just as tight with one less switch to mess with?
I first herd this a couple years ago from Dustin (Red Bull). As long as you have a strong enough front end to where you wont break and axle (which most of the time ruins the Detroit) it should be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the advice. I might do that down the road but this vehicle is mainly trail riding #1 and competing #2.

I will definitely take my time on this, I have soooo much to learn. Thanks for all the support. I really enjoy having so many people willing to help out.
 

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ARB rear...I prefer as well. With the rear locked it pushes too much turning. The front you can always run 2LO to bypass the front locker engaging on tight stuff...not that option if the detroit is in the rear unless you have a rear disconnect.

I find myself using the front locker and keeping the rear off more and more often.
 

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Do you think that it turns tighter that dual ARB's Brian or just as tight with one less switch to mess with?
I first herd this a couple years ago from Dustin (Red Bull). As long as you have a strong enough front end to where you wont break and axle (which most of the time ruins the Detroit) it should be ok.
Good question. I havent noticed the front sluffing off sidehills in this of dave's rig, both detroit front. Realistically the arb front/rear could turn tighter. However, I dont think the cost to spend a few hundred (sell detroit, buy arb, resetup) would be worth the potential advantage.
 

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ARB rear...I prefer as well. With the rear locked it pushes too much turning. The front you can always run 2LO to bypass the front locker engaging on tight stuff...not that option if the detroit is in the rear unless you have a rear disconnect.
Good point...

I find myself using the front locker and keeping the rear off more and more often.
I am really a newb here, cause with an IFS truck I only use the front locker when its absolutely necessary.

I guess a SA truck will be a different story.
 

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I also dont like having the rear locker engaged while sidehilling, or on off camber decents/turns, etc...

I have 2 ARBs, and in a trail rig its probably the best route, but I can definitely see how having a detroit front in a comp rig would offer an advantage for instant traction without flipping switches, forgetting whether its on or off...
 

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i was the first to put arb's front and rear in my ftoy...people told me it wasnt nessesary....thats BS. just trail riding alone, i have saved front and rear axles soooo many times by being able to turn the diff off when i am bound up or undercut on a tire. arb's is the only way to go if you ask me...but what do i know, i just turn sharper than any other ftoy:flipoff2:
 

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i was the first to put arb's front and rear in my ftoy...people told me it wasnt nessesary....thats BS. just trail riding alone, i have saved front and rear axles soooo many times by being able to turn the diff off when i am bound up or undercut on a tire. arb's is the only way to go if you ask me...but what do i know, i just turn sharper than any other ftoy:flipoff2:


Yeah but you also run that little scrawney rear axle.

Stretch the wheel base as far as you can put in a wide rear housing, spool that baby and drive it like a MAN!:laughing::laughing::laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK so I found some more time to work on my rig this weekend. I got all the brackets off the frame and ground smooth. I also started filling holes in the frame which is extremely hard with a stick welder. I cut off about 21-22" off the frame to leave it at exactly 152". I have a 2x4 that I am using for the rear crossmember.
 

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