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Discussion Starter #62
rochead, that's a badass rig, the 40s look good, any rubbing ................For being a token.....:flipoff2: Well I haven't been looking into wheels lately. I got it panted, and the rear rollbar support cut out and repaired. I'm going to reverse one front and rear wheel and flex it out again to see if I still have any rubbing then I can determine the back set. I think I may have to put my 3/4 ton calipers on first to get the wheels on?
 

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I got new shoes to be delivered Monday. 15/42-16.5 TSL’s. I’ll have 4 cut ones for sale soon if you know anyone needing a set of mock ups. They still have a few trips left in them. But our new President bought me a set. :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Two steps forward, one step back...
I've been trying to narrow up the rig, so less off set wheels seemed like the easiest way of doing that. But when building the shock hoops I put the body 1/4" from the top of my 40" tire wheel combo, trying to keep the body as low as possible and still use all of the 16" coilovers. So now that my body work is done and painted, I find I'm stuck with 40" tires. Not a bad thing, just a limiting factor. I would like to have the option to go up 1 tire size without bump stops.

Next issue: The body is 1/2" off the frame and now the air filter is 1" too high. The Holly E.F.I. is 3-1/4" high, same as my carb, my air filter is 3-5/8" high. So with some internet time I found a Spector Low Profile single hat style air filter at 2.4" tall.

air filter.jpg

Hopefully that will be enough to not rattle the bottom of the hood. I don't want to raise the back of the hood, I'm going to keep it flush to the cowling. I could drop the engine approx. 1/4" max but my rear drive is already maxed out at full droop. With the engine moved back 2", 16" of droop, the axle got pushed back approx. 1' to keep the drive shaft and CV out of trouble. The local CORVA (Road to the Hammers) race track has a couple of high speed jumps, I don't want to build any problems into it if I can help it. I feel like a dog chasing it's tail.

dog-chasing-his-tail.jpg
 

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Tim,

Those carb hats really restrict air flow and the heat from the radiator, valve train and exhaust will collect around the carb or throttle body due to the close proximity of the hood will really rob you of power. A guy did some Dyno tests with them here and posted his findings here.

Air Induction and Power Loss - Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board - HybridZ

For every 10 degrees Fahrenheit of change in the temperature of the charge, there will be a corresponding effect of 1 percent to the specific output of the engine-raising the charge air temperature will decrease power.
Otherwise a drop base type found on early muscle cars like this might be a better option. Look for ones that dont have the filter exposed. Turkey pans are cool too.

https://www.efisystempro.com/holley-sniper-efi-air-cleaner-drop-base-black-120-511

On the injection side of things I'd bite the bullet and set up a low profile single plane dry manifold with a throttle body set up for tpi. The 1k for the sniper or for and additional $300 gets you into the hp mgmt system. Dave and I are discussing a similar setup for my Dads 390 using an edelbrock Vic JR manifold add fuel rails to it and control it with the Holley hp efi mgmt.

Here is an example of what I'm talking about

$162 RHS single plane EFI intake manifold
$172 FAST billet fuel rail kit w/mounting hardware
$100 EV1 style 42lb/hr fuel injectors
$125 machine shop service to correctly mount above
$130 for low profile Edelbrock elbow
$85 90mm LS style TB
$70 for TB and IAC sensor/solenoid + connectors (98 5.7L Camaro parts)
$16 for 2x SAE-8 to AN-8 fittings (will need 2 more + crossover fuel rail + miscellaneous stuff to adapt to stock)
$12 TB gasket
$30 miscellaneous hardware: TB studs/nuts, elbow bolts/washers, coolant elbow, coolant plugs.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/alternative-port-efi-intakes/729275-rhs-23-small-block.html
 

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Discussion Starter #68
49willys mogon: Thank's that was a good read this morning with a cup of coffee. So the 90 deg. elbow is a serious air flow restriction and causes air turbulence at the carb/TBI plenum. All of the discussions were from track day racers running higher RPM's. If I can get on an offroad track I don't see my RPM's getting over 5000 since my cam was ground for off idle to 4500.

cam card 2.jpg

So with your info. The Holly EFI Sniper with a Holly drop style air filter base with a 14"x 2" K&N filter is my best option and a $100.00 cheaper. As far as under hood temps, I'm using a Flex-o-Lite flex fan. I don't remember the CFM but it will push a lot of air across the engine, keep'n the engine bay from collecting hot air pockets. I do not like electric fans because of the cycling on and off causing air temps to constantly fluctuate, that irritating whirling noise, and the 20 amp draw on the electrical system, and one more part to fail, I keep it simple. I bought an Edelbrock Airgap low RPM manifold from the machine shop for $50.00, it has bosses for injectors. I also bought aluminum heads which I understand is supposed to keep the engine cooler. But I'm big on keeping it simple for off road. My favorite trail is the Dusy Ershim on a weekday by myself. I've thought a few times, after not seeing anybody for 3 days and don't expect to see anybody for a few more, that to have the motor just shut off due to a electrical problem would suck. So that is why I keep lookin' at the best and simplest EFI I can find. Thanks for all the info. Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Well it's painted, body's on and I'm workin' on the cage. The cage came with the jeep, I didn't like the look so I cut it up and stretched it 4" and lowered it 1 1/2". I have some gussets cut, and a rack to build still that will set a few inches over the fuel cell. I ran out of welding gas last week so I quit workin' on it and started snow wheelin' the little one. Got my DUI distributor in and installed, I had it recurved for 550rpm. I got the Holley Sniper EFI (chrome), haven't even taken it out of the box yet. I took the TSL's off the big one and put them on the little one and put my Iroc Radials on the big one, they perform so much better in snow. The TSL's suck in the snow, so I bought a grooving tool, should be here Monday, I'll see how that works and try them again.

DUI Distributor.jpg

Cage 1.jpg

Cage 2.jpg

engine rockers.jpg

So dilemma: I'm not really into naming my vehicles but I have two now, both yellow. Should I give them names? I know Fubar is tentatively the larger one. How about Camel Toe for the little one? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
Awesome stance. You gonna have to cut the hood for the air cleaner?

Thanks for asking about the air cleaner. Where is my air cleaner? I went to Summit and had a spending spree, purchased a 2" drop base air cleaner for the Holley Sniper EFI. Now been dealing with Summit and Holley to get my air cleaner for a month now. Evidently my credit card was undercharged .01 cent and it never shipped. This morning I think it all got straightened out and it should be on the way. With the 2" drop base air cleaner, I should have 3/4" between the top of the air cleaner and the bottom of the hood.

Thanks 49willys_mogon for the idea of the drop base air cleaner, wasn't in my radar and didn't know about it.

As far as the stance, it's sitting high right now because it has no weight in it, hopefully it will drop when I get everything in.

csutton7: Yep, same color. Funny how that happened. Had left over yellow from the other one, so I decided to use it (with a little more purchased). The original plan was silver and was gonna try some airplane look, air brush work to make it unique, but never happened. So yah, now they're twins, Fubar and Camel Toe. I need a name for the little one, not quite settled on it yet.

Heck yah, let's get the band back together this summer!
 

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Wow Tim! That looks great! I'm not worthy. Mines a hack job compared to yours:shaking:
 

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Tim your willys looks awesome. Keep up the great work. Dig the pos/neg jumpers on the pass cowl. Glad it worked out with the air cleaner.
 
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