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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What do you most of you guys with factory 404 motors do about replacing the fuel pump, United Parts Service wants 62.00 for a rebuild kit, which seems high to me. Is this pump the same as the car motor? I am thinking that Napa might be cheaper if they have a rebuild kit. Does anyone run electric pumps? Thanks.
 

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texascadillac42 said:
What do you most of you guys with factory 404 motors do about replacing the fuel pump, United Parts Service wants 62.00 for a rebuild kit, which seems high to me. Is this pump the same as the car motor? I am thinking that Napa might be cheaper if they have a rebuild kit. Does anyone run electric pumps? Thanks.
Just went thru this, buy the complete pump, if you lose a small part you are screwed. the car unit has the outlet in the wrong place, if you an electric pump be careful as hell with getting one with regulator, it will flood if you get the sw with no regulator. the mikunnis can take the presure but the worn out 404 carb seat would leak gas into engine while at idle, not cool, if you want I can get the number off the 24 volt electric i have, it is new but needs a regulator, fuel pumps bite your ass as no room and metric fittings and a million parts. I lost a fuelpump inBig bend and had to load the truck with ether cans, it took me a month to finally give up and order a rebuild pump, the sorry stock pump housing eats out, i ordered the rebuild kit and it came apart on the gasket area. Good luck, post uphow it comes out, hope you get it running cheap and safe! Ck all fuel lines for leaks, i found many leaking by welding a air valve on an old gas tank cap after I put the new pump on and still slow fuel up to it, those tanks suck! Same with the sorry fuel selector valve, $200 for it!better off witha nice new stainless gas tank with locking cap and fuel drain armored like a tractor! Later, what type do u have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea, I am definitely thinking of ditching the fuel selector valve, and the reserve part of the twin tanks, and making it a single tank machine since it will only be for the trails. If you could get me that 24V pump number I would appreciate it. And could you give me more info on the regulator you used.....thanks.
 

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texascadillac42 said:
Yea, I am definitely thinking of ditching the fuel selector valve, and the reserve part of the twin tanks, and making it a single tank machine since it will only be for the trails. If you could get me that 24V pump number I would appreciate it. And could you give me more info on the regulator you used.....thanks.
Stand by I think it is on the porch will go look!
 

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Carter p611396 02c18a

I got this at Oriely,s it said SW on the box but was reboxed from factory, remember the thing has american fitting, you might find something if you are in a bigger town, one thing you can do with the gas tanks is buy 2 used bottom tank drain plugs and drill them out and armor a fuel bowl like on a welding machine gas tank so both are connected, i ran ball bearings in both tanks for a long time and still get rust coming out sometimes after 5,000 miles, my truck sat with water in tanks too, stainless is nice, all one compartment and one drain and ONE fuelline, what were these guys thinking with the crappy set up? good luck! Could not find a regulator, i got pissed and put it all back to stock, the regulaor I looked at was a Holley ands like waytoHIGH so I just grabbed both cheecks for UPS, what can you do? The regulaor and pump is more than the stock set up! You can buy a stainless tank for $200 same size as stock, forgot who has them but i think 2 or 3 dealers, some just get a 406 diesel used tank it is bigger and fits but same old waytohigh usually!
 
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