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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anybody has built a full width full float 9" with 35 spline axles. I have only been able to find one website that describes the conversion to full float. I saw that he used D44 outers on it. I like that and would not mind doing it, but I am not sure if I would be able to fit those bigger axle shafts in there. And also I dont know what I would do about the flanges. What have you guys done, seen, or heard about? I know that this would be an expensive project, but I built a D44 and dont really want the big bulky one ton stuff out back. I see all kinds of kits for the EB but none however for the fullsize rig.
 

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If by, "but I am not sure if I would be able to fit those bigger axle shafts (assuming 35 spline) in there" you mean into the 9" center section and D44 hub....you are correct. It is going to take some work. If going to a 35sp axle, you will need an aftermarket center section and carrier, ie Strange, Moser, etc.

You will also need custom axle shafts 35 splines on one end and most likely tapered 19 splines on the other if you are going to use selectable lockouts for a D44 hub. Or this end could have a splined flanged custom built and pressed onto the axle the flange that would contact the inner splines of the hub thus removing the selectable hub entirely.

As for the D44 spindle, you could remove the factory 9" mounting flange and press and weld thick steel plate on the axle ends with a bolt pattern to fit the spindle. However, a driveline shop would need to do this to ensure plumbness and dead centering of the spindle onto the axle housing.

As for manufacturers, try www.stockcarproducts.com, or Speedway Engineering, and Warn Industries (they used to carry this conversion)
 

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If you've got the money for a custom axle you may also look into custom 9" axle housings from some of the circle track racing companies. They make 9" full float axle housings and assemblies with the spindles actually made on to the end of the housing, like a 14bolt. They can sell you everything you need individually or a complete assembly.
 

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tera flex makes dana 60 style spindles and hubs (5 lug,6 lug or blanks ) you would have to fab ends for your 9" for the spindles to bolt to and then you can have custom 35x 35 spline axles built and use 35 spline lock outs or drive flanges
I just sold a set of these hubs and spindles I bought thinking they would work on my hybird 609 but i decided to go with dana 60 chevy parts
 

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Here's a 9" full float rearend from Stockcarproducts. It comes in 60" and 62" widths. I don't know if this measurment is from flange to flange or if it's from WMS to WMS. This setup may prove unusable if the bolt pattern is unique to their company. Or you could have the flange drilled and new studs pressed in to match your particular pattern.

 

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When I break one of my non FF 35 spline axles I will definatly weld on 14 bolt outers and get some custom FF axles made. It's pretty cheap and 14 bolts are a dime a dozen.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks everybody for the input. here is the website that I found dealing with this. http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/ff9/ It seems just like what I want to do only using bigger axle shafts.
Aces'n'8s said:
If by, "but I am not sure if I would be able to fit those bigger axle shafts (assuming 35 spline) in there" you mean into the 9" center section and D44 hub....you are correct. It is going to take some work. If going to a 35sp axle, you will need an aftermarket center section and carrier, ie Strange, Moser, etc.

You will also need custom axle shafts 35 splines on one end and most likely tapered 19 splines on the other if you are going to use selectable lockouts for a D44 hub. Or this end could have a splined flanged custom built and pressed onto the axle the flange that would contact the inner splines of the hub thus removing the selectable hub entirely.

As for the D44 spindle, you could remove the factory 9" mounting flange and press and weld thick steel plate on the axle ends with a bolt pattern to fit the spindle. However, a driveline shop would need to do this to ensure plumbness and dead centering of the spindle onto the axle housing.

As for manufacturers, try www.stockcarproducts.com, or Speedway Engineering, and Warn Industries (they used to carry this conversion)
I knew already about needing the different center section. I asked on here a couple weeks ago and learned that. I was talking about the axleshaft going through the spindle and needing a bigger bearing in there. I dont want to use a tapered shaft. I want it 35x35. Also I dont want to use selectable lockouts since it will be a rear axle. I want to use drive flanges. I have seen some that are 35 spline but dont know if they will fit in a D44 hub. I am thinking that i am going to have to chop the ends off and have new ones welded on for the spindles. I would defiently have a driveline shop do the welding there. I will also look into that website and see what they have to offer.
mudtoy67 said:
If you've got the money for a custom axle you may also look into custom 9" axle housings from some of the circle track racing companies. They make 9" full float axle housings and assemblies with the spindles actually made on to the end of the housing, like a 14bolt. They can sell you everything you need individually or a complete assembly.
I am not opposed to buying a custom axle. i just would rather save money when I can. I am just a poor military member. Also I live in Alaska and shipping would be outrageous up there. But if that is the route I have to go.
bronco75 said:
tera flex makes dana 60 style spindles and hubs (5 lug,6 lug or blanks ) you would have to fab ends for your 9" for the spindles to bolt to and then you can have custom 35x 35 spline axles built and use 35 spline lock outs or drive flanges
I just sold a set of these hubs and spindles I bought thinking they would work on my hybird 609 but i decided to go with dana 60 chevy parts
This is the route that I would like to go. Somthing along these lines. I will have to try and research these.
 

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If your keeping the dana 44 up front why go through the extra work/expense of full float?

Your tire size is allready limited by the front axle, I can't see how a semi float 35 spline rear would not be sufficient.

If dead set on full float buy a 14 bolt and cut the ends off that, you can even have the hubs machined to accept 5x5.5 lug pattern
 

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As stated earlier, use 60 front spindles, have the hubs drilled for 5 on 5.5 and run Warn drive flanges?? Super easy?? All you would need is an adapter plate to go from the rear housing flange to the spindle. Super easy to make, then Strange or dutchman etc can cut you a set of shafts and you are done. I would not piss down moser's throat if their ass was on fire... They steal money by selling and advertising crappy non hardened 44 "monster shafts" and then do not stand by them....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
bronco75 said:
http://www.teraflx.com/pages/jeepbuilder.php?jeepID=32&prodID=142&subID=3
this is terra flex page on full float conversion

I honestly would look into gm 14 bolt ends and hubs and custom shafts if I ever decide to go to full float rear end
thanks for the link. I will have to try to see how much these will run compared to some D60 hubs and spindles. What brakes would you run on those? Do you use Jeep stuff? I do like that they are the same lug pattern as I already have.
NE-RokToy said:
If your keeping the dana 44 up front why go through the extra work/expense of full float?

Your tire size is allready limited by the front axle, I can't see how a semi float 35 spline rear would not be sufficient.

If dead set on full float buy a 14 bolt and cut the ends off that, you can even have the hubs machined to accept 5x5.5 lug pattern
The reason on keeping the 44 is because I dumped to much money into already. Im not saying that I will keep that axle in there forever but I will keep it in long enough till I start really breaking stuff. It has warn shafts and ctm u-joints. Once that stuff starts letting go I will probably just bite the bullet and buy a D60. Then if I have this 9" overbuilt already all I would have to do is change out the hubs and rotors to match the front 60. I dont know but it all makes sense in my mind some how.
broncman said:
As stated earlier, use 60 front spindles, have the hubs drilled for 5 on 5.5 and run Warn drive flanges?? Super easy?? All you would need is an adapter plate to go from the rear housing flange to the spindle. Super easy to make, then Strange or dutchman etc can cut you a set of shafts and you are done. I would not piss down moser's throat if their ass was on fire... They steal money by selling and advertising crappy non hardened 44 "monster shafts" and then do not stand by them....
I think this is probably going to be the easiest route to go.




The only things that I am not quite clear on would be. How do you seal the axle housing where the spindle would attach? And also would this lengthen the WMS any? Thanks again for everybodys input.
 
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