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Mitchell Differentials in MA builds SF to FF conversions for several brands. It's a bolt on kit built for your particular axle. It appears the wms remains the same. Has anyone tried one or knows someone who has? Results??
 

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Mitchell Differentials in MA builds SF to FF conversions for several brands. It's a bolt on kit built for your particular axle. It appears the wms remains the same. Has anyone tried one or knows someone who has? Results??
There's at least one person on fullsize bronco who tried it. It came with approximately D44 sized spindled and whatnot.

For the money I think it would be far more worthwhile to build the poor man's full floater out of a Ford 9 or just swap in a real full floating axle. They're everywhere and cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There's at least one person on fullsize bronco who tried it. It came with approximately D44 sized spindled and whatnot.

For the money I think it would be far more worthwhile to build the poor man's full floater out of a Ford 9 or just swap in a real full floating axle. They're everywhere and cheap.
I'm not sure that is an option for me. My 3rd section is a TRU HI 9 (Mega 9 gears) and the housing is Spidertrax with big Ford old style flange. I don't want to give up the center section and don't know if a Ford housing has the same wms to wms.
 

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I have that kit on my DD fulsize Bronco. Had it for about twenty years. I run 38's and the 8.8 couldn't take them. It has been pretty good to me. Eventually, I broke the flange off the hubs. Now they make the hubs and flange out of billit. (Before they were welded.) I couldn't go to their new hubs because they changed some stuff. So I ended up machining my own.

One other issue I had was cracking the brake flange on the axle housing. This problem would not occur if you weld the spindle on instead of bolt. But I wanted to be able to transfer the kit to another axle. I did this when a bought another Bronco. I bent the axle tubes on that Bronco. (Nothing to do with the kit) So I finally built a new 8.8 with a truss and swapped the kit on it. (I reinforced the brake flange on it)

Since then, I haven't had any real problems. I think the kit is good quality and a real upgrade, and solves a lot of problems. But for the money, it's a tough call. If I were to do it again, I would swap in some tons and never look back. The only reason to this is if you want to stay five lug. I have Rare Alcoa wheels (that I love) so I'll keep it.
 

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What rig is this going in, what are the spec and what is the intended use?

I think you should buy a pair of '05+ unit bearing cups (same bolt pattern as Dodge so you can use Dodge bearings with an alignment ring and a different axle shaft if you want to use 8x6.5), weld them on and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
This is on my Jeep/Buggy. It's a YJ frame with an aluminum LS1, 350 auto, atlas, Dana hp 60 front, TRU HI 9 rear with a CJ7 body tubed at the rear. 108" wb running 43" TSL stickies. It weighs 4200# and used for rock crawling. It had been run for several years without breaking the Dutchman axle shafts, but has bent a couple and tristed the splines. I'm putting a new shaft in now, but after having a shaved 14 bolt in my LJ, I just don't want to worry about when the next shaft will bend. I want to retain the clearance, lighter weight of the 9, 5 on 5.5 bp and 63"wms. Just looking for the most reasonable way to get it done. Thanks
 

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04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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What rig is this going in, what are the spec and what is the intended use?

I think you should buy a pair of '05+ unit bearing cups (same bolt pattern as Dodge so you can use Dodge bearings with an alignment ring and a different axle shaft if you want to use 8x6.5), weld them on and be done with it.
He had a thread where we recommended that, we found several vendors. He HGTD it.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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I'm not sure that is an option for me. My 3rd section is a TRU HI 9 (Mega 9 gears) and the housing is Spidertrax with big Ford old style flange. I don't want to give up the center section and don't know if a Ford housing has the same wms to wms.
IMO The best option would be to build a new housing and sell your current housing and shafts. Reuse your third.

Everything else aside from bearing cups is going to be Mickey Mouse. Do it this way and it will be done right.
 

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I want to retain the clearance, lighter weight of the 9, 5 on 5.5 bp and 63"wms. Just looking for the most reasonable way to get it done. Thanks
Fuck it. Buy the biggest 5x5.5 unit bearing you can find, take measurements, make (or have someone else make) some cups and buy custom axle shafts to go with it.

He had a thread where we recommended that, we found several vendors. He HGTD it.
Lol, didn't realize this was the same guy.

IMO The best option would be to build a new housing and sell your current housing and shafts. Reuse your third.

Everything else aside from bearing cups is going to be Mickey Mouse. Do it this way and it will be done right.
Arguably he could graft the ends from a FF axle on but that would be more work.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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Lol, didn't realize this was the same guy.
I found a place on Facebook that made any cup you wanted, I went back to post it in his thread and he deleted three threads.
 

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Link? My search skills aren't always the greatest, especially on FB.
It was in one of the groups I’m in. I wanted to remember it, so I was going to post in thread so it could be found again. If I see it again, I’ll repost.

FB sucks for finding stuff. :mad3::flipoff:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry to be a pest here. Was just trying to tap into the knowledge here to determine what my options are. A highly qualified local shop has quoted $3400 to convert it. That surprised me a bit and am debating whether to write the check or consider the Mitchell option. I'm not setup here to do more than bolt on, so beyond that it goes to a shop.
 

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FB sucks for finding stuff. :mad3::flipoff:
Three little dots at the top right of any post if you're viewing on a mobile device, then click on save post. No need to rely on your notifications to follow a post.
 

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Sorry to be a pest here. Was just trying to tap into the knowledge here to determine what my options are. A highly qualified local shop has quoted $3400 to convert it. That surprised me a bit and am debating whether to write the check or consider the Mitchell option. I'm not setup here to do more than bolt on, so beyond that it goes to a shop.
For $3400 you could buy a new housing, shafts, hubs, and brakes.

But you wont listen to the first 100 suggestions, so get your checkbook out and pay the shop.
 

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The MD Full Float Rear Differential Conversion Kit – Mitchell Differential Inc.

Like mentioned, spindles look tiny. Mess one up and you're screws since it's a one off part. Kit looks like it's meant for a typical mild bronco or jeep, not a damn buggy on 43 stickies.

Weld on unit bearing cups or 14b spindles. Either one can be had in 5x5.5.
Interesting. 14b spindles with hubs in 5x5.5? The spindles in the kit are as big as can be and still fit the hub through a 5x5.5 wheel. They use special thin bearings to do that. So how is it done on the 14b?
 

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Interesting. 14b spindles with hubs in 5x5.5? The spindles in the kit are as big as can be and still fit the hub through a 5x5.5 wheel. They use special thin bearings to do that. So how is it done on the 14b?
No, stock everything you can get at any parts store. You can either redrill the stock hubs or buy solid hubs in 5x5.5.

Does mitchell offer chromo shafts as an option? Guy is already twisting high quality Dutchman chromo shafts. So going full float and 1541 shafts would be a downgrade.
 
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