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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I was dumb and looked at a full floating axle on the net...now I have to build one.

I've looked at FROR, but don't really want to pay $669 for their floater kit(just axles, adapters and misc hardware). I've sourced all the parts (SFA hubs, spindles, bearings, disc brake junk), and a buddy with a machine shop to make me adapters.

The oddball are the actual axles. I looked at Alloy USA, and...someone else with Metal in the name.

I'm not sure about what length of axles I would actually need? I know it will depend on how thick the adapters are, but can someone enlighten me as to how to measure how long I'll need, and how much fudge factor there is.

Oh yeah, stock rear end on an 86 pickup
 

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Build your adaptors, install everything including the drive plates or locking hubs, then slide a tape measure all the way into the center, hook the end of the tape into the differential side gear and read out at the end of your splined drive plate or hub gear.

Got it? :confused:

In other words, you are measuring from the innermost spline to the outermost spline.
 

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That must take some skill to slide a tape through the spindle, then through the axle unseen, and then through the 3rd and hook it on the end of the side gear.
 

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91Toyota4x4 said:
That must take some skill to slide a tape through the spindle, then through the axle unseen, and then through the 3rd and hook it on the end of the side gear.
Not that hard if you use a wide tape.

The axles will have to be a bit longer for the groove for the clip on the end.
 

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been done with a toy 1 ton rear already-thread is on here. real easy. the problem may be to find one. bring your own trail spares. with the reliable strength you can get with upgraded shafts on a regular rear, why bother?
 

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You can also slide a metal rod in, mark it and use that for measurement.
Push to a cross pin and back off a tad or slide in hub-to-hub and then
subtract the gap you want to leave in the middle.
Jay
 

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Don't forget you've got to figure out seals too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
jdrocks said:
bwith the reliable strength you can get with upgraded shafts on a regular rear, why bother?
Like I said...I looked at it and now I want one. I fully realise that I will not be making anywhere near the power required to break a regular axle, let alone a full floater. But I figure it'll be fun to build.

I know that on the front, my axle shafts stick out past the locking hub splines by about 1/4" (mabey a bit more). Will the same go for the rear? And what about the 3rd member, how much "should" it stick past the splines?
 

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ErikB said:
Don't forget you've got to figure out seals too.
why could you not just let the gear oil lube the bearings? just like all the other fullfloaters? it has a hub seal, and the lockout should seal it as well...
 

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91Toyota4x4 said:
That must take some skill to slide a tape through the spindle, then through the axle unseen, and then through the 3rd and hook it on the end of the side gear.
Just like Oops said, use a wide tape (like a 25' carpenter's tape) and it is real easy.

Sapper33 said:
I know that on the front, my axle shafts stick out past the locking hub splines by about 1/4" (mabey a bit more). Will the same go for the rear? And what about the 3rd member, how much "should" it stick past the splines?
Yes, give the same amount of shaft out past your hub gear as your front. For the diff, keep it at the length of the side gear period. Many diffs get messed up from too long of a shaft jamming the differential cross shaft. Plus the shorter the splined area, the stronger it will be. You want the overall length of any shaft spline no more than 1/4" longer than any of your female splined components it slides into.

ErikB said:
Don't forget you've got to figure out seals too.
Just make a small plate or ring that holds a stock type oil seal and slides into the axle end, sandwiched by your spindle adaptor. Then have your shaft builder make a sealing area on your shaft in the correct area.
 

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I have the same setup as you are talking about building. I just hapened to brake rear axle and ordered my new one through FROR depending on how thick your adapter is the shafts that i have are probably close to the same as what you need. i can give you the numbers if you want them, i have me spares in the shop to measure. pm me.
 

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and my wheel bearings are lubed with gear oil. this has worked just fine for 1000s of miles and I just looked at all the parts and they are still lookin good
 

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Wheel bearings on big rigs with FF axles are lubed with gear oil. Shouldn't be a problem.
 

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White Goat said:
why not just get a toyota FF axle? you can get rid of the dully and put front hubs on.
Not to rain on your parade, but using a dually rear end isn't that simple. If you're looking to do this on the cheap, going the dually route is not for you.
 

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The axles that came with my kit still had the Moser stickers on them.

I know when I was thinking about doing a setup myself I could not find anywhere that I could get the axles from cheaper than the whole kit from FROR.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
jasonmt said:
I know when I was thinking about doing a setup myself I could not find anywhere that I could get the axles from cheaper than the whole kit from FROR.
I talked briefly with FROR about their kit, and while I'm impressed with it, I'm still certainy I could build it for cheaper.

As I said their kit comes with the axles, adapters and some misc hardware, for $669usd.

I've priced out all the big parts: axles from Moser Engg: $315/set, and I can get my buddy to make me adapters for under $100(cdn). I got the spindles and hubs for $50(cdn), top it off with a set of LC rotors $70(cdn), add $50 for misc little shit that I'll run into, and I've already got calipers. So by my math I can build an entire full floating set up for about $550(usd).

Experiance has learned me that this number with entirley balloon once I get into it, but hey, it's fun to try.
 

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To me being able to spend the money and not waste the time sourcing parts was the deciding factor, the ~$200 you saved is not worth wasting 5+ hours of my time and this is with the adapters being essentially free in my case.
 
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