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Discussion Starter #1
I have full hydro steering and occasionally the steering gets hard then goes away just as quick and turns great. I asked the manufacturer and we came up with nothing. This last weekend though i noticed that the reservoir is lower than the orbital valve. Is this possibly the problem? if so, where are people mounting the reservoir when the steering wheel connects to orbital with short(like 5") shaft? If i mounted my reservoir above orbital, it'd be sticking out of the hood like a foot.
 

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It's not a reservoir height problem, its sounds like a low flow problem from the pump, does it only happen at lower engine speeds,,? might check pulley sizes and try to speed up the pump.
Also you could have a weak or bad centering spring in one of the valving disc's in the orbitor valve.

DQ

Ps. don't take the valve apart without scribing a reference line down the outside of it first. the plates are timed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Been through every other possible problems. I have tried two brand new pumps, talked to manufacturer about pulley sizes. It does it at slow and fast speed. I rock race w/ Xrra and coming into tight turns is the most pain in the ass, but it also does it at slow speeds. Manufacturer said faster pulley would shorten life of the pump, but if that's what it takes, what size should i run? Small block chevy 350, older block with newer tbi setup. thanks
 

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What type of hydraulic ram do you have, and are you using a reactive or non reactive orbital valve?
 

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if you still are having problems after you vent the system, you may have crud in your orbital valve
 

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What size ram, you may need a bigger bore ram. I had similar problems and replaced the crappy 2x8 AG ram with a 2.5x8 SE ram and it was night and day
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Belt seems to be tight, do you think it is slipping? If so, might be able to run a double groove pulley. Ram is a double ended 10" stroke, not sure of bore, how do you tell? Not exactly sure of difference between reactive and non reactive orbital. System is vented. Possible crud in orbital, but entire system other than cooler is brand new and have been having this issue since beginning. If there were crud in orbital, how would a person go about cleaning it out?
 

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Look at your fluid, does it look nice and clean or does it look dirty? you could take out a sample and run it through a fine white cloth and look for fine deposits on the cloth. With a new orbital valve fine debris could slow its reaction to inputs.
 

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If you do have evidance of contamination in the fluid, you could drain and flush it several times. But you said you changed the orbital valve and it followed to the new valve. So I wouldn't change the fluid unless it it contaminated.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i didn't change the orbital, i changed the pump and it followed. the orbital is non reactive and the fluid appears clear and clean, but i'll run some through a cloth anyways. So everyone is agreeing that the height relationship from the reservoir to the orbital is not an issue?
 

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How hard is it for you to adjust the presure from the pump? It may have too mutch pressure. Most orbital valves are designed for use on heavy equipment
 

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Discussion Starter #16
don't know how to adjust pressure on pump, but i have had two pumps that were set up differently. One i was told from manufacturer was a crawling pump and the other a race pump. not exactly sure of the difference. don't know if it was a volume or pressure or both difference. it is not the howe pump you mentioned. both pumps felt the same to me
 
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