[Lilgreenjeep]

I just got an offer today and thinkn bout taking it wondering what everyone's openions where on it

Guys wanting to trade me Dana 44 HP out of full size 82 jeep with 8lug spindles
And 2 rear Dana 60s out of 73 for and 80 ford one ton
Wanting to trade for one of my old jeep 4.5 lifts
Would this be a good choice to do full size axle swap in a 1992 jeep Cherokee sport stock 4.0 H.0 stock

Right now I have Dana 30 front locked and 8.25 locked with 4.5 rustys long arm kit
I no its a good bit of work be a good winter project Any ideas hints advice anythings nice thanks guys

 

[Chaps]

A D44 is not much of an upgrade from a D30. I had a big hub D44 in the front of my jeep for about a year and it sucked, I broke an axle shaft or u-joint just about every time I went wheelin. I was runnin 36" IROKS for tires and was locked. After replacing a couple broken chromo shafts it would have been cheaper to have just bought a D60 to begin with and saved on the repairs. If either of those D60 rears have 35 spline shafts, that would be a nice first piece to the puzzle.

 

[Lilgreenjeep]

Alright the rear axle the 80 model is a 35 spline and the older axle I'm not sure it is out of a dually truck the newer is not so your saying the Dana 44 would not be worth the time making it work also I will be running NO bigger then 36" tires

 

[themud]

Sorry but I don't agree with this one I run a fullwidth 44's in the front and rear of my rig cromo inners and outers with 35's and beat the crap outta my rig in the rocks of az and have replaced 3 hubs so far in 2 hard years.. While i do think the front 60 is a nice idea (it's really heavy) when I go to 37's I will replace my semi float 44 rear with a 14bolt and just put 30 spline outers and hubs on the front and call that good.. If you can drive instead of matting the go pedal on everything you'll be just fine for 95% of the trails out there if you do johnson valley everyday then I would agree 60's are for you..


themud

 

[Chaps]

What I said is just my opinion, I'm sure many other people will have a similar opinion. I run 40" tires so the extra strength is needed. Plus I live in the North West, most of the time our trails are wet, slick and steap. You will not make it up most of the trails with out alot of skinny pedal, here's an example. I guess it just comes down to a question. What are you going to do with it and where are you going to do it at?
http://youtu.be/IW2RNJBPkVs

 

[themud]

The good thing for you is lack of traction so it helps with not breaking stuff until you hook up.. Out here in the AZ we have an overabundance of traction so binding and loading up the drivetrain is a real issue as stuff breaks real fast then but I at least have the option of creeping the lines..

Not knocking your ideas but the price difference between a 44 and 60 that are built is quite a lot at least to my numbers..
A 44 will live with 35's and 36's and even up to 40's but you WILL have to be light on the pedal..

themud

What I said is just my opinion, I'm sure many other people will have a similar opinion. I run 40" tires so the extra strength is needed. Plus I live in the North West, most of the time our trails are wet, slick and steap. You will not make it up most of the trails with out alot of skinny pedal, here's an example. I guess it just comes down to a question. What are you going to do with it and where are you going to do it at?
http://youtu.be/IW2RNJBPkVs

 

[Lilgreenjeep]

My thing was I won't have anything in them but front coils rear add leafs and lower control arms I like doing rock crawler not alot of mud I go to red river gorge 90 percent the time dirty turtle off road now and then and Harlan co. Fall crawl etc when I have the money I live in ky and wheel round here I like the petal so just save up and do the 60 front and rear out of newer so I can have disk brakes? After I do this I don't wana have to do it again

 

[userbmx1315]

could always put RCV's in the front 44 and call it good. then you'r weak point will either be the yoke or a gear.

i had a 44 in the front and it only lasted 4-5 months or 4-5 wheeling trips. the ujoints are the same size as a d30.

 

[Lilgreenjeep]

If there that weak I'm not gonna waste my time then just keep searching junk yards for them

 

[theDMAXman]

It is quite a bit of work to swap the front axle and imo a waste of time and money for not much of an upgrade, throw in the costs off chromos and joints or rcv's, you could just have a 60 and be done with it. look around and plan, do it right or it will cost you ten-fold

 

[theDMAXman]

40's on a dana 44... yea :shaking:

 

[Lilgreenjeep]

Yea I'm just gonna wait I guess and find a newer body style ford and get front and rear plus then it would already have the disk brakes on them I see them in junk yards all the time for 89.00

 

[9Cherokee8]

BE Warned . If i could do my one ton swap again i wouldnt go superduty diffs. Finding parts isnt fun and that 8 on 170 bolt pattern is a real chore. yes it is nice having discs front and rear but the brakes need a ton of oomph to run. Mine are out of a 2004 f350 and thats just the 30 spline stub shafts:shaking: Which i broke and when i tried to find a 35 spline chromo it was not a fun process, i think dynatrac makes a complete conversion to get rid of the unit bearings and you get 35 spline stubs and everything else you need. That was the only option i could find and it jumped my junkyard 500$ set of diffs into the thousands right quick.....not to mention gears lockers and complete custom high steer.

 

[Lilgreenjeep]

Well my other thing is I have an 03 f250 that's built tons of power and have broke everything imaginable and everything's warrentyed hubs ball joints all that only reason I was thinking bout newer axles

 

[9Cherokee8]

Fair enough im just wishing i would have gone the king pin route in the end. The only thing was i diddnt really want to replace every thing on an old rusted up diff but in hindsight i ended up doing that to the newer diff:shaking: