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Discussion Starter #1
14 Bolt Rear Axle
New 5.38 gears
Re-using bearings

Started w/ .020 pinion shim (same size that was in it before)
.008 Backlash

Looks a little shallow to me. Was thinking about slightly increasing pinion depth.

Thoughts?

First 2 pics are drive side. 3rd pic is coast side.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Just increased pinion depth by .004

Just increased pinion depth by .004 (now .016 shim). Backlash is .007.

I think it's looking better and my next shim down is .013 (would be .003 deeper), and I'm not sure I want to go that deep.

1st pic is Drive, 2nd pic is Coast. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks fellas. I'm thinking it looks a lot better with the .016 shim. Would you run it or try going to .013?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
if it sees the street i would run it, trailer queen id go slightly deeper
I'd say 70% Trail, 30% Street.

Just curious as to why deeper for a trailer queen?? I always thought you wanted perfection if it sees high speeds (street) and slightly less than perfect would be good enough for a trail rig (slow speeds). Sounds like my thinking is wrong though...

Is it because you would want the deeper pinion depth to counter act ringer gear deflection, but it would cause issues at speed on the street?
 

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Is it because you would want the deeper pinion depth to counter act ringer gear deflection, but it would cause issues at speed on the street?
precisely, others will disagree but it works for me. back when i was running toy axles i used to bust r&p a lot but after switching to solid pinion spacer, ARB carrier, and setting the gears deep i stopped breaking the gears and started breaking chromo birfs(6 of em). got tired of that and went with 14b front and rear, i used to break a drive train part every few trips now the only drive train part ive broken in two years is a drive line :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Still shallow, keep bringing the pinion in.
Okay, I'll try taking another .003 out and report back. Thanks

precisely, others will disagree but it works for me. back when i was running toy axles i used to bust r&p a lot but after switching to solid pinion spacer, ARB carrier, and setting the gears deep i stopped breaking the gears and started breaking chromo birfs(6 of em). got tired of that and went with 14b front and rear, i used to break a drive train part every few trips now the only drive train part ive broken in two years is a drive line :laughing:
Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense. I went with the solid spacer on the 14 bolt also. It only took one crush sleeve install on a 9" for me to pay the extra cash for the spacer. :)
 

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Don't worry about the 'size of the shim' whether it's too thin or not. Get the pattern right the first time and don't worry about it. I seen a couple of 14 bolts where there was no shim at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Don't worry about the 'size of the shim' whether it's too thin or not. Get the pattern right the first time and don't worry about it. I seen a couple of 14 bolts where there was no shim at all.
Yeah, I'm not too worried about that. Just don't want to go to deep either.

Round 3:

Took out another .003 (shim is .013)
Backlash is .006
First pic is drive side, second pic is coast side.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks guys. Decided to put some shop air to the brakes and turn the pinion with a ratchet to get a better gear pattern. So, better pics below.

I'm pretty happy with the last setup (.013 shim), and unless anyone thinks otherwise, I'll probably run it.

Also threw in a pic of the 95% completed axle. Just need to finish the brake lines once I throw it under the rig.

Thanks again for the feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Took out another .002 (shim is now .011)
Backlash is .007
First pic is drive side, second pic is coast side.

The next size down is the thinnest shim I have and it is .010. Not really sure that it's going to make much difference, but I can try it if need be.

Thoughts?
 

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You should always run a pattern using resistance...Otherwise its not much use.

I have been taught to use a large (as in 3 foot) pry bar against the bottom of the carrier, close to the ring gear, and act as if im trying to pull the carrier out of the housing while i'm spinning the pinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
You should always run a pattern using resistance...Otherwise its not much use.

I have been taught to use a large (as in 3 foot) pry bar against the bottom of the carrier, close to the ring gear, and act as if im trying to pull the carrier out of the housing while i'm spinning the pinion.
I used a rag stuffed in between the ring gear and housing the first couple times, but like you said, decided I wanted to see the pattern a little more clear, so used the brakes.

Since I'm pretty much about as deep as I can go with the pinion, I decided to move the ring in closer by one hole on the adjusters. I came up with the pattern below. Thoughts?

Also, since I have the brakes on and the shafts in, it's difficult for me to check backlash at the ring gear. Is there any reason you can't measure backlash off of the pinion yoke?

I've set up a few diffs before, so I generally have the feel of acceptable backlash, but it's been a few years. Hence why I'm asking questions and trying to brush up.

Thanks
 

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