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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im building my truggy now and have my d44's
I want to run 35-37" tires and I already have geo a 1600/auto with 4:1 in the tcase. Would 5.38's be good for crawling (Its an offroad only rig) Or should I just go for 5.89's.
Im looking for the best all around ratio for the trail as well as
the rocks. I dont care about running on the street at all.
 

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My opinion: If you don't drive on the street, go deep as ya can. 5.89's all the way.
 

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What's the T case out of. Is it Sami with hi range reduction? Or a Sidekick with 1-1 hi?
The reason I am asking is 'cause all around rig you will want it to be nicely drivable in hi range.

Well, 5.89s all the way if you are running a non sami T case.
Here is why:
5.89 with 1-1 hi range and auto work out to numerically match a 35 inch tire.
5.38's on the other hand only support a 31.5 inch tire to keep stock RPM.
Of course, for low range trail the lower the diff the better, so that's a no brainer.


If you are running a 2WD tranny and a Sami T case with 40-some
percent Hi reduction, then 5.89s
are going to be way to low for your Highway cruising speeds. You'll spin that motor well into 5500s at 60MPH. But you are not intending to do higway, so again, 589s get my Vote.


5.89s
 

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Little Red Zuk said:
My opinion: If you don't drive on the street, go deep as ya can. 5.89's all the way.
This theory works when you run standards, but with an auto you have to be careful about getting geared so low that the motor overpowers the brakes!!

I'm still learning this stuff in regards to auto's, but I would guess that the 5.38's would be good. Ask DSI or Rude, they know more about gearing with auto's. Look at their buggy build-up threads, they mention it....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Im running the 2wd auto and sammy 4:1 tcase. (The old ORIGINAL
kai crawler that tim lund of ARB had built.)
I will never drive it on the road. I want the 5.89's I just want to
make sure there are no downfalls to that gearing I would need to
address.
Thanks for the input. (And yes I would love shane to jump in on this one.)
 

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I run a 1.3, stock tranny, to a 6 to 1 sammy case, 5:71's in toy axles with 37in MTR's and 2nd gear is all I can use to get any wheel speed/spin on rocks. After that it falls on it's face. Hope that helps.
 

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1300 / stock standard tranny / 6:1 T-case / 5.13's Diff.gears and I find it NOT low enough for rocks using 37's. So, I'll be installing the TT 2:1 Spliter box.

I don't like the idea of such a small pinion gear that the 5.89 has.

BTW, wheel spin on rocks =
 

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Crab Bait said:
I don't like the idea of such a small pinion gear that the 5.89 has.

BTW, wheel spin on rocks =
... been abusing my 5.89s for a while. Lost a front Pass shafts when U joint
, but no complaints on R&P, for what it's worth...
 

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Crab Bait said:
1300 / stock standard tranny / 6:1 T-case / 5.13's Diff.gears and I find it NOT low enough for rocks using 37's. So, I'll be installing the TT 2:1 Spliter box.

I don't like the idea of such a small pinion gear that the 5.89 has.

BTW, wheel spin on rocks =


No my friend wheel spin on rocks means Get'In It!!!!!!! :flipoff2:
 

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rockcrawler01 said:
Im running the 2wd auto and sammy 4:1 tcase.Thanks for the input. (And yes I would love shane to jump in on this one.)
I'm swapping to a 1.6L 16V and hopefully a 2wd auto, 6.1 t-case and 4.38 R/P and from what a few other people have told me that will be a good set-up to run (with 35" tires).

So, I would think that with the 4:1 case you would be fine with either 5.38 or 5.89. I've also heard the 5.89 is a little on the weak side, but have no first hand experience.

FYI.
 

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being as we're talking 1.6l motors here... with a small, high stall auto, a crawl ration in teh area of about 70:1 is as high as you should really go comfortably, deeper is nicer, but it also causes issues, such as: if you run link suspension, you'll start loading the suspension as you hit the brakes because the torque has to go somewhere! and the biggest one is the inability to stop the damned thing without throwing it into neutral every time.


slightly unrelated, but my buggy is @ 64:1 with an auto, and i run pretty good sized brakes, that will lock all 4 water filled tires on asphault, but in low, pointed down hill, i'm double and tripple pumping the brakes and holding them to the floor to get it to stop, with the motor @ idle! and my stall is well over 1200...


the big thing to remember is to put a temp gauge on that tranny though, don't let it get to hot! that's a real killer to an auto, and if you overheat it on the trail it's not like a 5sp where u can dump whatever in ot to grind it home with...


now as far as diff gears? 5.38's for strength, granted the 5.89 pinion technically has more teeth... it's ALOT smaller... and really has less tooth contact...


but what do i know, i'm not shane :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
if you run link suspension, you'll start loading the suspension as you hit the brakes because the torque has to go somewhere! and the biggest one is the inability to stop the damned thing without throwing it into neutral every time.
Rock on thats the shit im looking for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I and a buddy are building it with 16x2"SAW dual rates (another thread I need to start about spring rate after I search) In the rear and coil/shock in the front all 4 link.
Im very interested in this down hill thing.
:confused:
These axles brakes used to stop a fullsize v8 waggy I wonder
if they are good enough?
The gear ratio break before 5.89 just plain pisses me off I wish there were more options.
:mad:
 

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Gears for a DD...

Here's my Question......I daily drive my Sammi, and have done a SPOA with 31's, all stock gearing(everything). What gearing would be best for me, considering that i'm on the road 90% of the time. I have access to 5.12's, but was told that would be to low. I want a good low for off-road, but need power and speed on-road. I understand that I can't get the best of both worlds untill I get some x-fer gears, but what then?:confused:

PS- This seemed to fit my problem, so I didn't make a new thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
No problem dude I started this as a sammy gearing thread.
I would do the 5:12's (especialy if they are local!!!!!) the a 4:1 tcase laiter if its a daily driver.
I built a sammy daily driver with 5:13's for buddy and he loved it on and off road.
My 2cents
:p
 

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from my experience, with spoa and 31's. Get tt's 4.89 tcase gear set and leave the r&p gears alone. That combo works great for on and off road. My 1.3 is running strong so if there is no head wind I can get her up to 65mph and its low enough to crawl over anything a 31" tire can crawl over.
 

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What was that thing taching at 55mph? Do you know. Right now, and this is the weird thing, I am taching [email protected] I followed my wife down the road, and my speedo said 55, and so did hers. :confused: My father said if I were taching [email protected] with 3.73's, then I would be around [email protected] with the 5.12's. What's up? I know jack sh!t about ratios. Also, what have you guys used for a double cardon d-shaft front and rear? I plan on keeping stock axles for a few years, and need to get rid of these vibes.


rockcrawler01 said:
No problem dude I started this as a sammy gearing thread.
I would do the 5:12's (especialy if they are local!!!!!) the a 4:1 tcase laiter if its a daily driver.
I built a sammy daily driver with 5:13's for buddy and he loved it on and off road.
My 2cents
:p
 

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ZUKIMON said:
What was that thing taching at 55mph? Do you know. Right now, and this is the weird thing, I am taching [email protected] I followed my wife down the road, and my speedo said 55, and so did hers. :confused: My father said if I were taching [email protected] with 3.73's, then I would be around [email protected] with the 5.12's. What's up? I know jack sh!t about ratios.

Okay...If you want the spreadsheet, just let me know, but here's some math...with stock t-case (1.409:1 in high), stock R&P's (3.727:1), pre-'88 5th gear (0.795:1) and 31" tires (I'll assume BFG Muds at 30.8").

55 MPH = 2506 RPM
65 MPH = 2962 RPM
75 MPH = 3418 RPM

If you just change to a GRS1 t-case (1.579:1 high), you get:

55 MPH = 2809 RPM
65 MPH = 3319 RPM
75 MPH = 3830 RPM

I ran the 31's with a GRS1 and 4.62R&P's for about a year and that was about perfect (if just a bit too revvy) all around. Could pull 75+ on the freeway, but still had a 70.32 crawl ratio in low-low.

So, where are you getting the 55 MPH = 3500RPM???...let me do some what-ifs on the spreadsheet...assuming 5th gear, 30.8" tires and 55 MPH (all the knowns), you'd have to be running either 5.125:1 R&P's or a combination of 4.625:1 R&P's and a GRS1 (nice combo) to get your observed 3500 RPM.

Don't really know what's going on there. You do know that going from a 26" tire to a 31" tire will make 65 MPH actually READ just under 55 on the speedo???
 

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since we're on the subject of gears what would be good for a VW 1.9TD w/ Zook tranny/tc and Toyota axle's? I was first thinking of just doing 6:1 or 6.4:1 TC gears and leaving the 'yota (85) stock 4.10 gearsets in due to their strength but after reading up it seems maybe I should do the diff's as well due to power issues?? I am going to run 35s and it will no an offroad rig only.

What would be ideal? I haven't done anything yet.. picking up the axle's tomorrow though :cool:
 
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