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When I buillt my new house I had the concrete guys put a 12x12 footer in the drive way that is perfectly level. Welded some wheels to the tube bender. No need for hydro. I just through a 12' piece of tube on the handle or bigger and walk the bend. When I am done I just put a 12x12 peice of wood between the anchors. Sucks when Im drinkin beer and plowing with the atv and not paying attention.

Ruckis is not mine. Roomie's
 

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I like the idea, but I would have had them smooth it out or something.. that's one hell of a tripping hazard if the bender isn't there.
 

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When I buillt my new house I had the concrete guys put a 12x12 footer in the drive way that is perfectly level. Welded some wheels to the tube bender. No need for hydro. I just through a 12' piece of tube on the handle or bigger and walk the bend. When I am done I just put a 12x12 peice of wood between the anchors. Sucks when Im drinkin beer and plowing with the atv and not paying attention.

Ruckis is not mine. Roomie's
nice idea. I cemented a piece of reciever tubing in the ground that is level. I put my bender on another piece (male end) of reciver tube. Wheel it out to tube in cement, put it in, bend, pull it out. I put a flat plate on another piece of tube and put that in the reciever when not in use so it covers the the hole.
 

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For plasma cutting guides, I use strap with stick on magnets stuck to the back side. They make nice guides, are easy to move, and as long as you aren't cutting too slowly, they are fine with the heat. I keep extra packs of them for ones that have gotten messed up from heat. They are cheap, and I made different lengths for small or large cuts. Also works well for circular jigs and things for cutting curves, or on card board for one-off parts.

on the cuts, you just measure the diameter of your tip, divide by two, and place the guide that distance away from your cut.
 

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Just paint that 12" x 12" yellow so you see it before you trip over it -on the days it's not covered in snow that is. :D
 

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tube bender operation

i have a tube bender that i use but not enough for hydraulics. i do use it enough that walking back and forth, repositioning the lever in the comb and moving the pin in the die to further the bend was getting to be a pain. so i came up with a much nicer way,no more moveing pin in die, no more using the comb assembly,no more walking back and forth with the long lever. i fabricated a mount so i use my high lift jack attached to both ends of the bender. it allows me to go over 90 degrees without changing pin holes in die and i can stand in one position to pull handle. takes alot of the work out.
 

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bandsaw extras

i have the normal horizontal bandsaw but i wanted to do more things with it. i had a piece of 2x3 angle that i wanted to use , so i put it in the vise and cut it to length , 6 inches, but i wanted 2x21/2. i went to hf and bought a 6 inch drill press vise and took it to a machine shop and mill the mounting flange off both side so i can mount it in the 6 inch vise on the bandsaw, so now i have the bandsaw vise going perpidicular to the blade and with my drill vise mounted in the bandsaw vise i now have a vise parrellel to the blade. after all that i can put my piece of angle in the vise and i can cut the 3 inch side down to 21/2. it sounds like a lot of work to cut down an angle but i cant tell you how many times it has been useful.
 

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i have a tube bender that i use but not enough for hydraulics. i do use it enough that walking back and forth, repositioning the lever in the comb and moving the pin in the die to further the bend was getting to be a pain. so i came up with a much nicer way,no more moveing pin in die, no more using the comb assembly,no more walking back and forth with the long lever. i fabricated a mount so i use my high lift jack attached to both ends of the bender. it allows me to go over 90 degrees without changing pin holes in die and i can stand in one position to pull handle. takes alot of the work out.
Brilliant! Does it reduce how much effort is required to bend the tube in terms of how sturdy the bender's mounting needs to be?

I'd love to be able to mount my bender to heavy fab table, without having to anchor it to the ground.
 

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Hi-lifts bring the suck, I can't imagine trying to fabricate with one :eek: For not much more effort and the price of a good hi-lift you can just go hydraulic. Cheap power ram for benders

No contest the bends are smoother and more consistant than the ratchet method not to mention you can quickly roll the bender out wherever you want, bend and then roll it back into a corner. Hardest part was collecting the bolts and material, you need to make a clamp for the air/oil cylinder (exhaust tubing) and a few sleeves. The cylinders can be had from Harbor Freight and have been as low as $69 before coupons. I actually think I have seen a kit for sale that lets you mount one of these cylinders to a model 3. I get about 80 degrees with one shot before having to index the pin in the die.

My orginal bending stand was designed to be anchored by a forklift. Worked great since I had no tools at home and did all the fab stuff after work out back. Not sure you'd want to attach the bender to a table, you limit your multi-plane bend options if you don't have clearance all around the bendign dies.
 

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You make a valid point.

I just really need to bend something this weekend, and my bender isn't currently mounted to the floor(moved shops and haven't drilled the floor in my garage)

I was thinking if this reduces the total effort required by increasing the leverage, I might be able to bolt it to a table or strap the old stand to my trailer or something. I've done that before to bend 1" with the traditional setup, but it was not going to stand up to bending 1.75".
 

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I don't remember what I was originally searching for... but I stumbled upon this thread and surprised how overcomplicated and expensive I was making things. This taught me to step back and K.I.S.S. Great ideas everyone. Keep them coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #316
Two really simple tricks that I use over and over.

When rounding or putting a radius on sharp edges, first grind a 45* angle right on the edge. Then, easily work in a nice radius. The results are consistently handsome.

When centering a whole to be drilled, use washers to quickly determine the center.
 

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I always have a hard time holding short pieces of tungsten to sharpen them up on my sander. Either my fingers are in the way, being sharpened as well, or getting burned from the heat generated. I've wanted to do this for a long time now and finally got around to doin it. I simply took 3 5/6 fine thread nuts, stacked them on a bolt to hold them all straight and welded them together. Then I just threaded a spare collet into one end and a spare back cap in the other. Now I have a nice long handle that will hold even the shortest pieces of tungsten securely.

I'm sure someone already makes a tool for this purpose, but I haven't seen it, and I'm cheap, so I built this for less than $2 in hardware and some spare parts I already had. Kinda pissed I didn't do it sooner :shaking:
 

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