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Discussion Starter #41
wait.

you have an axle seal leak and a leaking front dif cover on currie axles and you posted a bad sellers thread about Genright? LOL.

I'm honestly baffled that someone would spend 40K on a build and come one the internet to whine about oil leaks. fucking wrangler people.

on to your issues, Replace the axle seal in the rear and quit bitching. I'll give you that Genright owes you a seal and the labor to fix it since you bought the axles assembled through them.

as far as the front goes, a lot of people have that setup without leaks. that leak issue is your installers problem. they managed to fuck up the cover somehow. have them weld you a new cover bolted to a welding table or to a housing so it doesn't warp.

If it were mine, I'd countersink the cover and run Conical washers with Grade8 bolts to lock the cover in place. same way I do all my difs. also,you should use a lube-locker gasket instead of a gasket maker "just in case" the cover shifts, it shouldn't cause a leak once you tighten the bolts back down.


Currie is Smart. they don't deal with the public so they don't have to deal with the complaints.
However, I have called them multiple times with questions about products and have had nothing but great service. I have had them sell me parts direct before, but they generally want me to go though a vendor.


Honestly the rear axle seal leak is not that big a deal and doesn't bother me.. that is an easy fix. PITA, yes but not something I would ever post up about unless I am finding poor support from the shop/seller. In my case I am exposing a bad design by GenRight (not a Currie diff cover) and further letting other's know that I have had to deal with a company that doesn't support their customers. fucking brainless dirty dicks that like to complain about Wrangler owners. It's a bit more complicated than a simple oil leak that is fixable and certainly has more to do with lack of support.

on to your suggestions, noted and appreciated. For the record I have a Lube Locker on there now that I attempted in my final fix and GR is suggesting I remove it.


Where's the michael Jackson popcorn meme when you need one? This guy is about to learn first hand why you don't come to Pirate4x4 and whine like a bitch over 2 leaking axle seals lol... Bro, if you cant remedy that problem yourself, how about packing that rig up on a trailer and sell it to someone who knows how to do it.. You're clearly WAAAAYYY over your head in shit you have no clue about.. These fly by night offroaders are mesmerizing... I'm going to quote the guy from Fast and the Furious: "Just because you think you can box, doesn't mean you can just step in the ring with Ali."
I liked your comment here so much that I decided to not let this thread go after all this time.


FIFY:flipoff2:
Look at this little punk.. can't leave him out.. the one that likes to make up a quote. Bet you're the guy that likes to watch a fight then stomp on the person that is down's head. :flipoff2: OMG dude. lmao.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Wow.... just ... wow.
Time lapse is not his/shops fault although I am aware that he will not win any build races.


Is this a bitch session about your leaky diff or a build thread/fantasy???
And why are you bringing it back from the dead???
:flipoff2:


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In the end I will find a solution and offer full transparency.. that's why.


After finding this thread this evening and getting back to everyone for the most part I would like to figure out the root cause of the issue. Obviously it's mostly understood at this point by the majority that attaching a CA to a diff cover is a bad idea. Someone should tell GR so they don't suggest and support their product to a consumer like myself that put some faith in their advice. Some lessons are learned the hard way. With that said and underneath all the BS and commentary there are some good suggestions that I most certainly will consider and may try. I'll keep posted later this year when I have a chance to see what corrects the issue. Thanks guys. :flipoff2: no seriously, I do appreciate it.
 

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For the record I have a Lube Locker on there now that I attempted in my final fix and GR is suggesting I remove it.

So you have been and still are in occasional communications with Genright ?

Do they know about this thread ? :laughing:



Curious if you can weld to the Currie centers for a link mount like you can on a Dana and ditch that weird cover/bolt set up, but I guess they have a crossover mount to accomplish that, was the truss link mount an option and you chose the diff cover mount ? (just asking seriously don't know)


You spent alot of money, and they have all of it, so they are are more or less, Done with your project so to speak .



Take that buggy out to farm country and find some old boy that knows what the fuck he's doing and he will fix your leaks, shit I can't even see em, and I'll guarantee I can fix em, make a better UL mount system to boot .

Hope you get everything sorted out, I can see how this could be frustrating when you paid up, things like this reinforce my trust issues, I keeps me from letting other people build or work on my shit .


Best of luck to you .
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Just curious, at any time in the last 2 years when you have had the diff cover off have you checked to see if the cover is warped?
Short answer.. no. Nothing has been done with the front diff. Last time the rig was driven the ram seemingly failed so on the trailer and down to the Bay it went (that was Jan 2017). After much thought this evening I am going to have the unit inspected under a microscope, if I can, and post back. If it turns out the diff cover is warped I will certainly have more questions than answers at that point and it will most certainly be more difficult to pin point this as a design flaw on GR's part and error in judgement on my part to move forward with a design that incorporates a CA mount being attached to a differential cover. I failed to read this thread since my last posts until earlier this evening and now I find myself questioning several things that may have gone wrong. Quite a bit of time has gone by at this point (3.5+ years since the labor). If the unit is warped I will likely have a truss built and get a new cover. In that event I will have to give GR the benefit of the doubt. If it is not warped I will give JSS a shot at stopping the issue as is and if the problem continues to persist there is a chance I will take it down to GR to have a look otherwise I may likely write the issue off and try and forget it ever happened and move forward with a truss. I like the design in theory but if it doesn't work then it doesn't work, move on and maybe everyone is the wiser.


So you have been and still are in occasional communications with Genright ?

Do they know about this thread ? :laughing:


Curious if you can weld to the Currie centers for a link mount like you can on a Dana and ditch that weird cover/bolt set up, but I guess they have a crossover mount to accomplish that, was the truss link mount an option and you chose the diff cover mount ? (just asking seriously don't know)

You spent alot of money, and they have all of it, so they are are more or less, Done with your project so to speak .

Take that buggy out to farm country and find some old boy that knows what the fuck he's doing and he will fix your leaks, shit I can't even see em, and I'll guarantee I can fix em, make a better UL mount system to boot .

Hope you get everything sorted out, I can see how this could be frustrating when you paid up, things like this reinforce my trust issues, I keeps me from letting other people build or work on my shit .
I spoke with GR recently but more or less regarding their suggestion on the front coil over hoops and how they position them there in their own shop. They haven't forgotten me around that place for sure. Absolutely if I were skilled enough and had the time to do this stuff on my own I wouldn't put trust in other people. Being able to weld and work on one's own shit doesn't make them a custom fabricator (nor have I ever claimed to be one). I think the more I am considering all the issues that could have caused this issue I am skeptical with my own thoughts on the matter. However, I don't think I'm wrong with much of my frustration regarding all the BS I have been through. Your point is very valid tho that GR has the money and at that point if they don't do the work they can ultimately be finished with the situation. If I had listened to my heart I would have stuck with the Pro Rock 60's and gone with a truss on the front but ultimately I went with Andrew's suggestion to choose Currie and the diff cover design against my better judgement. Guess I didn't really consider that the install shop would foul it up so badly they would warp the cover allowing the design to fail (and at this point in no way am I convinced that is what happened, but it is possible). Certainly learning some valuable lessons here tho and why I should be more skeptical regarding this shit. I just somewhat assumed it was a proven design and I wouldn't have problems. I do believe that throwing hundred dollar bills at labor doesn't mean that labor is worth it. If done correctly and no issues then those Benjamin's are unavoidable either way for someone like myself that doesn't have the equipment to do the job. In the end this is a once in a lifetime build, I hope some things start to go more positively with it. also believe it or not I hope there is some slight vindication for GenRight because I want the design to work out given that is the setup incorporated with my build. If there is a fix that proves to hold over time and I don't have to go with a truss I will be happy in the end.


Best of luck to you .
Appreciate it man.
 

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I just saw this come up again from the past and did a quick re-read.

Everyone has an opinion...…...some good some bad.Any reputable shop
can have a bad day as I've even had lower link brackets on an 8.8 TJ swap for my Sons Jeep welded on wrong by a local reputable shop...……..and I didn't notice until I had it reassembled and went to install it.They had no problem making it right on their dime.That was years ago but it happens.I have never used Genright or their products,

I have nothing personally against Currie and have not run their axles but when I went to 60's on my TJ I bought Solid's from Ohio.I like the design better and have Zero issues.It looks like Genright uses Currie exclusively and the same set-up on many of their builds.

I hope Todd gets it fixed.
 

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I just saw this come up again from the past and did a quick re-read.



Everyone has an opinion...…...some good some bad.Any reputable shop

can have a bad day as I've even had lower link brackets on an 8.8 TJ swap for my Sons Jeep welded on wrong by a local reputable shop...……..and I didn't notice until I had it reassembled and went to install it.They had no problem making it right on their dime.That was years ago but it happens.I have never used Genright or their products,



I have nothing personally against Currie and have not run their axles but when I went to 60's on my TJ I bought Solid's from Ohio.I like the design better and have Zero issues.It looks like Genright uses Currie exclusively and the same set-up on many of their builds.



I hope Todd gets it fixed.


I have a buddy who has used GR on 3 heeps, YJ, LJ and a JK... they definitely push the Currie axles!!!
On the reputable part.... He’s never had any trouble with them.... He’s had buddy’s buy axles, armor, cages along with the full builds he’s done.... I’ve bought full armor through them. No problems whatsoever!!
I couldn’t imagine purchasing a product, taking it somewhere else/installing myself, then bitching about fitment or fabrication problems!!! All GR was asked was to supply a product... and sounds like the product has been proven on other builds!!!
OP...... stop Fkn around!!!! 2 years????
Fix your shit!!!!


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2 years and you cant pay someone fix an axle leak, yet you want to talk shit about pirate members? Drop a pair of nuts, and work on and build your own shit instead of paying people to do it and then crying about it for years. For fucks sake, you complain about a leaky front diff cover, yet haven't even made an attempt to pull the cover and inspect it? If that's too difficult for you to do yourself, maybe you could have your husband check it for you while you are in the kitchen cooking dinner.
 

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Even after your cock breath comments I will allow you to tow your pos over to my house half way between where it's at your place. Bring me some carne asada tacos and a 12 pack of beer and I will fix your front diff cover leak. Anyone who has grown up working on stuff can fix the leak in an acceptable manner in an afternoon. Even if a "correct fix" is some sort of truss to eliminate the diff cover bolts.


Oh and your still a whiney bitch that should have a civic :flipoff2:


^^^ that was a legitimate offer
 
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A microscope is not the tool to use to figure out if the Diff cover is warped. When you finally make sure you have a flat one then you can figure out if the axle housing mating surface is flat, then you're starting out where you should have been. It ain't rocket science.
 

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A microscope? :laughing:

Check it with a straight edge and a feeler gage.

Since something is welded to it, odds are it’s warped. If that’s the case have a machine shop surface it. Whole project including removal, surfacing, installation should take under a day.
 

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Jesus titty fucking Christ.

I haven't logged into Pirate since this thread was probably new so I had to create an account just to comment on this stupidity.

If the three link mount is so terrible in your mind, go truss it and put an new cover on the thing. But considering you cant figure out why a diff cover is leaking after 2 years I don't think rocket surgery is your game.

I personally have nothing against GenRight as a company, its employees, or its products. But dammit if they don't attract the biggest fucktards as customers.

Its the same formula, fucktard wants a Jeep to rock crawl brah! Fucktard doesn't know two shits and pays a shop to do work for them. Fucktard still doesnt know two shits and complains like their problems are NASA level engineering. Fucktard bitches and whines that everyone else is the problem and why cant the world just accept their fragile delicate ego and swaddle them in silk. I swear, whenever I see a GenRight sticker I run in the opposite direction.
 

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Jesus titty fucking Christ.

I haven't logged into Pirate since this thread was probably new so I had to create an account just to comment on this stupidity.

If the three link mount is so terrible in your mind, go truss it and put an new cover on the thing. But considering you cant figure out why a diff cover is leaking after 2 years I don't think rocket surgery is your game.

I personally have nothing against GenRight as a company, its employees, or its products. But dammit if they don't attract the biggest fucktards as customers.

Its the same formula, fucktard wants a Jeep to rock crawl brah! Fucktard doesn't know two shits and pays a shop to do work for them. Fucktard still doesnt know two shits and complains like their problems are NASA level engineering. Fucktard bitches and whines that everyone else is the problem and why cant the world just accept their fragile delicate ego and swaddle them in silk. I swear, whenever I see a GenRight sticker I run in the opposite direction.
Gold. Hahaha
:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:
 

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I Like the few pieces of Gen-right stuff I've been able to afford. Timed my buys around the free shipping offers...I think this thread is a testimony to the direction of the 4x4 world right now..we've got a litany of people with deep pockets that have never tured a wrench and don't own a torch, who look through web pages and see nice wheeling rigs and want in, they don't realize that any custom off road rig takes a touch of mechanical aptitude to keep healthy.
 

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Wow. Just reading through this. Problem is easly fixed if it hasn't been? The cover will always get some movement with this set up. At this point the cover bolt holes are probably all wallerd out. Get Genrite/Currie to give you a new cover. Install it with new clean parts and hardware. You then need to drill holes between the cover bolts through the cover and into the housing and install press in alignment pins/dowls. Four pins should be enough. I've done this with several similar applications and had great success.

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