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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #463
Well, so far this weekend has been rather productive.

It started off getting the seat mounts modified. I went with some L-brackets to step the mounts closer to the center of the vehicle.


Doing this let me get the seats closer together.


And the I was able to close the doors.


Next I decided to get the Jeep off of the stands and back onto the tires.






As it sits right now, it's 24" from ground to the belly frame.

Tomorrow I'm going to remount the seats and see if I can mock up the center console area.

Joel.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #464
So, I got the center console area mocked up. The Turning brakes are mocked up to where I can use them and they don't interfere with any transmission shifter.

I really wanted to be able to install the JBFab triple stick shifter I have but I can't see how I can mount it where I can utilize the shifters while in a driving position and where it won't interfere with the transmission shifter. lol... I'll be looking at it some more another day after thinking about it some more.

I thing I wanted to tell you is that I came across this write up on how to install Bed Rails in the bed of your Toyota Tundra. This write up costs about 150-200 for all the parts and pieces and it works just as good as the Tundra factory system that costs several hundred dollars to install.

Anyway, the superstruts that you use in this modification (I used the same strut material that I used for the seat mounts and center console area) will also work on a Jeep TJ with out any modification if you have installed the Poison Spyder comp corners. I put a 3/8" cone nut in between each mount bolt and will add a 3/8"-16 eye bolt so I have 4 tie downs on each side.

I'll get pictures of this when I get a chance as it was too dark to take them when we got back from running errands.

Now I just need to come up with an Ammo Can or some sort of storage area for the center. Maybe one of the tuffy center consoles, lol.

Joel.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #465 (Edited)
well, I know I haven't posted much for the last 4 months or so, kind of lost motivation on this project.

However, I was able to get out there in the last few weeks to work on getting the engine running again, and maybe bleed the steering system.

Well, in order to get it running, I had to find a place to mount a few things (like the PDC and the charcoal cannister. lol. once I got those mounted up, I put in a new battery, and battery cables, added 3 gallons of 4 year old gas to the tank, primed it 4 times and turned the key....

Yup, the DAMN thing lit right off.

Here is a video of it running.


Hopefully, I can get some more work on it in the next couple of weeks.

Joel
 

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1,175 Posts
Glad to see you back at it! mine's been on hold as well for lack of motivation and bunches of other little projects that needed to be done :(

Your videos come up as "private", so maybe you need to fix the access rights.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #468
I got back out to the Jeep this afternoon and got the brake sensor wired up and the charcoal canister purge solenoid wired in. That is where the good times stoped. I hooked up the brake lines and and filled the system then went to bleed them. I started at the rear right and couldn't seem to get any fluid after 5 minutes of it under vacuum. I removed the vacuum and went to the turning brake and disconnected that and tried again. 5 more minutes and still no fluid. I put the vacuum on the drives side and got fluid rather quickly.

Guess I need to rebuild the turning brake cylinder. Seems a trip to Kartek is in order for tomorrow.

Joel.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #469
Rebuilt the turning brake, and got it bled, then found a split line in the drivers rear. Remade the two rear lines this afternoon and will have to remake the front lines tomorrow.

I need to get one of those pressure bleeder kits since I don't have a peddle pumper to sit in a seat and bump the brakes for me. lol.

Well. that's it for today.

Joel.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #470
Well I got out to the jeep again this afternoon. I got the brakes as bled as I can get them without a power bleeder and they still seem mushy. Unfortunately, the power bleeder won't be here until about the 19th.

Guess I get to work on something else until I get it.

Still need to mount a radiator overflow bottle, and the rear shock reservoirs. lol.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #471
Received the Power Bleeder this afternoon and promptly hooked it up and finalized the brake bleeding.

After it was hooked up, it took me like 5 minutes to get them all bled.

Next is to install the coolant overflow bottle.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #472
So I’ve been going back and forth on this for a while and can’t decide what I should do.

Air tank or no air tank?

As you know I have a York compressor installed, and I plan to carry a CO2 tank with me. But should I plumb in an air tank?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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So I’ve been going back and forth on this for a while and can’t decide what I should do.

Air tank or no air tank?

As you know I have a York compressor installed, and I plan to carry a CO2 tank with me. But should I plumb in an air tank?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes. Personally I use my bumpers as my air tanks. Front and rear are sealed and plumbed for my air tanks.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #474
Yes. Personally I use my bumpers as my air tanks. Front and rear are sealed and plumbed for my air tanks.
Unfortunately, I don't have bumpers that I can turn into Air Tanks. However, I do have a 2 Gallon tank I can mount. I'm thinking under the cargo area and next to the drive shaft.

On another note. I just ordered the Yukon YT P22 bearing puller and a bearing race driver tool kit in order to install the gears and lockers.

I want to remove the rear axle this weekend and start my attempt to install them.

Joel.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #475
Got some time today to remove the rear axle and get it disassembled for new gears and locker. One of the tools I purchased to do this was the Yukon bearing puller set withe the extra large collar for the 10.5" differential. I used this to remove the pinion bearings. Worked GREAT and I will be able to grind them to make some set-up bearings. I also tried to use it to remove the bearings from the carrier thinking that I could make them into setup bearings, I got the passenger side bearing off rather easily, however the drive side one ended up being torn apart by the puller. so I won't be able to use that one as a set up bearing. I'll be heading back out tomorrow to attempt to set up the gears and lockers.

Since this is my first time doing this, I was interested to find a few things.
1) That there was almost no preload on the carrier.
2) That there was only one shim on each side of the carrier.
3) I also didn't find any shims under either pinion bearing races.

Driver Side Carrier Shim: 0.274”
Passenger Side Carrier Shim: 0.270”

Pinion Inner Bearing shim: .028"
Pinion Outer Bearing Shim: .018"
Pinion Crush Sleeve: .455"





Joel.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #476
Had another cool and sunny day here in SoCal so I continued with installing the gears.

Started by attempting to make some pinion setup bearings. however, since the 10.5 and 10.25 have different bearings I wouldn't be able to do it.

Decided to work on the carrier and the carrier bearings pressed onto the Yukon Zip Locker with out incident, then moved to the pinion bearing. This one also went on without incident. All good so far.

Took a file to the ring gear and removed a few burrs that I found, then went to put it on the carrier. No luck. I couldn't get the ring gear down enough to get the bolts started. Tried to press it on, but it wouldn't press straight. So I stopped that and put the gear in the oven at 500 degrees for 45 minutes. ran it back outside and it went right on. Stunk up the house something fierce though. lol.

While the ring gear was heating I beat the bearing races into the housing and set the pinion head race with .025" behind it which is what I took out of the other one. guned it down enough so that I could install the carrier and check backlash.

After installing the carrier I set it to .008" backlash and checked the pattern. Patter was real close to the outside edge of the tooth. So I took it apart again and added .050" in shims behind the pinion head race, then checked the backlash. removed the carrier two more times to get the backlash back to .008"

Then it was time to go to dinner.

Here are the pictures of the gear patterns.




Since this is my first attempt at doing gears. I would love some input on my pattern.

Should I add more pinion head shims? to get the pattern a little more toward the center of the tooth. or is this acceptable?

Thanks for any help.
Joel.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #477
After talking with my brother, who has done this a few times, I think I need to remove .005-.007" from the pinion depth and reset the backlash to with in specs and it should be good.

Will be trying that tomorrow morning

Thanks
Joel.
 

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GIJEEPN
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594 Posts
Discussion Starter #478
Took the .007" out of the pinion depth and reset the backlash to .006"

Coast Side:


Drive Side:


Then we decided that I needed to take more out of the pinion so I took .010" out and reset the backlash to .007"

Coast Side:


Drive Side:


After looking at the pictures I think the we should but the .010" back into the pinion and reset the backlash.

Joel.
 
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