Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 740 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
766 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
If nothing else this build thread will provide entertainment for the seasoned builders as well as a consolidated source of basic questions that most would be embarrassed to ask.
A little history of the build. I had a 47 cj2a in high school that I blew the stock motor on the first day I bought it ( who knew they only went 45 mph?)
I some how managed to get a pinto engine in it with not much more than a wrench set and hammer. It got passed on to my brother and disappeared to god knows where after that. I always like the vintage look of them .
Last year I started looking for one to buy. Lots of possibilities out there but nothing fit the bill. I wanted a daily driver that gets reasonable mileage, auto transmission,newer motor, hard top for winter, and basically looks in great shape and rides like a modern vehicle.
After lurking for a while and watching build threads I PM'd Mieser to see if he would sign on as a consultant to help me avoid stupid mistakes and steer me in the right direction. He generously agreed and we assembled a grocery list of parts to start looking for.
I bought a welder a proceeded to practice welding by laying beads on every piece of scrap I could find. My weld sculpture is now too heavy to move out of the garage.
My goal is to learn as much as possible during the process, but also to choose my battles carefully. I do not intend to build another car ( but I guess who knows) so I don't feel that learning to rebuild an auto trans or swap axle gears is the best use of my time. Instead I will focus on skills and knowledge that could get me back on the trail if something less catastrophic breaks down...steering, hubs, brakes, fuel, etc. I expect to to have a very good working knowledge of most aspects of the jeep when I am done, as well as improved patience, and a new vocabulary of profanities.

That said here is what I have assembled for this project
Mieser frame with 2x6" belly rail spec'd for Yj springs front and rear
JCR racing weld it yourself front bumper
3x4" closed tube rear bumper with hitch receiver
Front axle is jeep YJ D30 with vacuum disconnect removed and solid TJ shafts installed, 4.88 gears with truetrac posi, discs
Rear axle is jeep TJ D44 4.88 truetrac posi, discs
Drivetrain is 2012 gm 4.3 v6 with 6,000 miles on it with the original 4L60E auto tranny that it came with, all harness, computers, gas pedal retained, but thinned by Jim's performance
Novak adapter to flipped D300 fully rebuilt and ground out to allow front wheel drive.
Northwest fab reverse cable shifters for transfer case
Wide ope design art Carr cable shifter for trans
Painless electric harness
Repro M38 tub
Cj2a windshield and willys stamped hood
Artic top and matching vertical windshield frame
Raceline 17x8.5" monster beadlock wheels
Goodyear MT/R Kevlar 33/11.5/17

I have made some progress and will add pics ASAP.
Cheers!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,078 Posts
Sounds like you are off to a good start, and I look forward to following this thread.
 

·
old school idiot
Joined
·
1,603 Posts
any time my willys is in the shop getting worked on the air is always perty blue. nice parts list, I look forward to watching it go togather
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
766 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I picked up the tub and rest of the body parts the other day. I ordered through Kaiser willys. Customer service and communication were good. The tub was well packaged with wood and steel frame. The hood arrived ith a small dent but it appears to be a simple repair.
I couldnt resist throwing the pieces together to create the illusion of some monumental progress!
The pieces are a mix and match of M38 tub and cj2a hood, tailgate, grill and windshield to get the willys stamp on the build.




<a href="http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/Glenn_Woudenberg/media/crate2_zpsc316c3e5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r695/Glenn_Woudenberg/crate2_zpsc316c3e5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo crate2_zpsc316c3e5.jpg"/></a>



http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r695/Glenn_Woudenberg/tub_zps289e9238.jpg







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,072 Posts
pictures no worky...

I use photobucket to host mine or you can get a red star to attach them directly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,006 Posts
I use google picasa. I just right click on the photos, copy the address and put it in the
command to put the pictures directly in your post.

*edit* I feel like I'm following mieser around pirate this morning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
766 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I need to find my radiator/ fan solution so I can determine how far forward I can slide the 4.3. I have looked at the solutions on meiser's thread which may work, but I am running the 4l60 E auto and need trans cooling. The unit from Novak has a trans cooler in the main radiator, but when pushed they stated I would need a secondary trans cooler also. I need every inch I can move my engine forward and do not want to sacrifice space to place trans cooler in front of primary radiator.
I am assuming I should cut the shroud pieces off the grill and make the back side flat, then measure the widest space between the headlights for width of radiator? Is there an advantage to let the radiator hang lower than the bottom of the grill a couple inches if the steering column fits under the cross bar?
Has anyone found a remote location for trans cooler that works? Last thing I want is more heat under the hood.
I have read some pros and cons to direct mount to the grill with the radiator. How does flex effect this if the hoses can absorb flex? Seems like a C channel welded to the grill in an upen on top "U" shape, rubber liner,drop the radiator in and some sort of tie down to secure vertical movement would work....I think there is something about this I am missing......
Opinions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,072 Posts
Griffin offers some options with built in transmission coolers. There website kinda sucks but there are part numbers for them. I mentioned it before but I would think pretty hard about trying to get a full 28" wide radiator just behind you LED headlights. If they are thin enough it would work really well.

The 7-slat grills are a little narrower between the headlights. Make sure to measure what you have...

The steering shaft needs to pass by the drivers lower corner of the radiator also.

Are you planning on running an engine driven fan or an electric fan? Make sure you have a full shroud either way, and plan space accordingly.

Juggling is fun isn't it.....engine, clearance, driveshaft, steering, brake booster, etc :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,633 Posts
If nothing else this build thread will provide entertainment for the seasoned builders as well as a consolidated source of basic questions that most would be embarrassed to ask.
A little history of the build. I had a 47 cj2a in high school that I blew the stock motor on the first day I bought it ( who knew they only went 45 mph?)
I some how managed to get a pinto engine in it with not much more than a wrench set and hammer. It got passed on to my brother and disappeared to god knows where after that. I always like the vintage look of them .
Last year I started looking for one to buy. Lots of possibilities out there but nothing fit the bill. I wanted a daily driver that gets reasonable mileage, auto transmission,newer motor, hard top for winter, and basically looks in great shape and rides like a modern vehicle.
After lurking for a while and watching build threads I PM'd Mieser to see if he would sign on as a consultant to help me avoid stupid mistakes and steer me in the right direction. He generously agreed and we assembled a grocery list of parts to start looking for.
I bought a welder a proceeded to practice welding by laying beads on every piece of scrap I could find. My weld sculpture is now too heavy to move out of the garage.
My goal is to learn as much as possible during the process, but also to choose my battles carefully. I do not intend to build another car ( but I guess who knows) so I don't feel that learning to rebuild an auto trans or swap axle gears is the best use of my time. Instead I will focus on skills and knowledge that could get me back on the trail if something less catastrophic breaks down...steering, hubs, brakes, fuel, etc. I expect to to have a very good working knowledge of most aspects of the jeep when I am done, as well as improved patience, and a new vocabulary of profanities.

That said here is what I have assembled for this project
Mieser frame with 2x6" belly rail spec'd for Yj springs front and rear
JCR racing weld it yourself front bumper
3x4" closed tube rear bumper with hitch receiver
Front axle is jeep YJ D30 with vacuum disconnect removed and solid TJ shafts installed, 4.88 gears with truetrac posi, discs
Rear axle is jeep TJ D44 4.88 truetrac posi, discs
Drivetrain is 2012 gm 4.3 v6 with 6,000 miles on it with the original 4L60E auto tranny that it came with, all harness, computers, gas pedal retained, but thinned by Jim's performance
Novak adapter to flipped D300 fully rebuilt and ground out to allow front wheel drive.
Northwest fab reverse cable shifters for transfer case
Wide ope design art Carr cable shifter for trans
Painless electric harness
Repro M38 tub
Cj2a windshield and willys stamped hood
Artic top and matching vertical windshield frame
Raceline 17x8.5" monster beadlock wheels
Goodyear MT/R Kevlar 33/11.5/17

I have made some progress and will add pics ASAP.
Cheers!
I've got a blue star aluminum top if you're interested. :D

And don't be bashful with the questions, it brings out more tech (always good). Read my thread, I ask a ton of dumb questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
766 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I will be running electric fan. I don't think my 4.3 even has a mechanical fan on it. Is there a minimum distance from the shroud to the radiator to allow cross flow for air after pulling it through? I hope to use the Volvo 740 fan/shroud combo.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,633 Posts
I will be running electric fan. I don't think my 4.3 even has a mechanical fan on it. Is there a minimum distance from the shroud to the radiator to allow cross flow for air after pulling it through? I hope to use the Volvo 740 fan/shroud combo.
In my cj5 with a 4.0 swapped in I have the taurus fan 1/16 from the water pump pully. It's shoehorned in there big time. I've not had any problems from it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,633 Posts
What is the minimal distance between the shroud and the radiator?
With the taurus fan, I trimmed the shroud till the nose of the fan was as close to the fins as I felt comfortable with. Then I just ran some of those spikey zip tie thingys (technical term) through the shroud and fins.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
766 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
So the nose of the fan protrudes far enough past the fan blades to be the limiting factor in how close it can go and still allows sufficient space for air to make its way across the radiator to the fan after being sucked through.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,633 Posts
So the nose of the fan protrudes far enough past the fan blades to be the limiting factor in how close it can go and still allows sufficient space for air to make its way across the radiator to the fan after being sucked through.
In my application it did. I don't know about the fan you are using. My shroud doesn't even cover the whole radiator, just the majority of it. That taurus fan moves enough air though. Probably why I haven't had any issues. At hwy speeds the fan doesn't even come on, just when I'm crawling or around town.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,633 Posts
Taurus fan no doubt--go here to get the relays and temp sensors and whatever else you may need---these guys are great to deal with

Mark VIII, Taurus, Two Speed fan relay kit.
If you can deal with the lack of customer service, I highly recommend the dc controls unit. Was stupid easy to hook up and has a light to show you when it's on and at what speed. Not that you can't hear the damn thing, it's like a b52 under the hood. :grinpimp:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
yes DC has a bad history when it comes to customer service--so I steered clear of them....

here's my Hollister Road story--I ordered a bunch of stuff and I had it for a couple of weeks at least sitting in the seat--on a Saturday the owner calls me up and asks me to check my order, because he thinks I got shorted something--by god he was right and he sent the missing parts overnight to me--enough said, I won't go anywhere else for the parts they sell....
 
1 - 20 of 740 Posts
Top