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Last time I set up some new shackle mounts I just sketched the leafs up in autocad at the various combinations (free state, loaded state, flat, expected max compression) and based my shackle on that. Worked great. I used autocad at the time, but any cad package (like autocad LT which you should be able to download free) should be enough to do it.

The thing about shackle angle, is that both the angle and the length play a part in the spring rate. So from that perspective, I think it's worth 'doing the math' to figure it out. But that's just me. I tend to overthink things (and then screw it up anyway).

Aren't you running YJ springs? Maybe a YJ frame would be a good starting point. (although the spacing here is about 43.78" front and 44.30" rear - doesn't sound right for a 42" spring).

 

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I know you have your exhaust manifold problem ironed out, but like Mieser said, swapping them side to side can help in some situations.

Also, on mine I bought an extra driver's side manifold and am using it on the passenger side. I have a D300 and my jeep sits low, so no driveshaft and exhaust was going to fit in the factory dump location.

So, the passenger side now will wrap around the oil pan in the front and connect with the driver's side to go to the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
I guess my old brain recalled incorrectly.
Thanks for the input. I definitely want a slight forward angle on shackle to be in the softer spring rate range
 

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Discussion Starter #205
Does anyone ever get pulled over because of spare blocking taillight? I plan to put in some bright LEDs so I hope some light will be visible indirectly. The position of the jeep in the shop doesn't allow me to see how far back I need to be to see both lights become visible...
 

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Does anyone ever get pulled over because of spare blocking taillight? I plan to put in some bright LEDs so I hope some light will be visible indirectly. The position of the jeep in the shop doesn't allow me to see how far back I need to be to see both lights become visible...

45-52 Willys CJ2A/3A's only had one tail light to begin with. But I think if its on and blocked from view they would probably give you a ticket.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Need to seal the fuel pump to the aluminum tank. It is a modular pump set on springed legs with a plastic hat.


The opening in the tank needs to be 5" diameter for the setup to drop in and the OEM set up has a flange built in to the tank so I cannot use it.
I have not found a fuel flange for a 5 " hole so I need to make one. While searching I found schedule 80 PVC flanges that might work. Is there any issue using PVC flange and a Viton gasket on the wet side? I was thinking I could solvent weld PVC bolts to the inner flange to seal them. I think the PVC bolts could handle the minimal torque needed to seal the gasket.



The alternative is make one from scratch out of 1/4" steel and weld bolts to the inner ring.
 

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Goatbuilt uses the same kind of pump in his tanks. Maybe he can provide parts...

IBEX Fuel Tank

If it was me I would weld something thick enough into/onto the tank for a flange that would allow tapped holes. If it's that thick you could also turn an o-ring groove in it under the pump mounting flange. Then have a ring on the top that holds everything down with the bolts....basically exactly like the goatbuilt stuff :)
 

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Discussion Starter #209
I fired off an email to him. That could be a simple answer. Thx!
I need a fuel send unit because there is not one on my pump. Is there any ohm range that is better than another? My gauge has ohm selection on the back so it can accommodate any range.
 

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Discussion Starter #210
Just admiring b4scramblers tub and noticed supports on the steps. It seems that I will be using the fender steps a lot to get in and out of my jeep at the final height. I am a 210 lb guy.....should I add support?
 

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It wouldn't hurt, but they are pretty sturdy once bolted to the fender.

Honestly I don't think the steps help much for getting in and out. They are too far forward to be of much use. Using a handle on the cage works the best to kinda rotate into position.....and for picking yourself up and out of the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #212
This weekend I got the under seat fuel tank installed. It has a 6" square sump that drops along side the frame rail. I will cover the aluminum sump with 3/16" plate boxing it in. The drivers side of the tank will have a line run to the sump on the passenger side to level fuel on both sides of the tranny tunnel. I ran 3" angle iron across the front top corner to secure it and serve as mount for the seats. I am removing the seat adjuster as it is kind of cheap feeling and I want to lower the seats the 1" that it raises them.





 

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Just admiring b4scramblers tub and noticed supports on the steps. It seems that I will be using the fender steps a lot to get in and out of my jeep at the final height. I am a 210 lb guy.....should I add support?
The only reason I added the supports to my steps was because my tub was so rough and the hat channel was gone. On your tub you will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #216 (Edited)
I need to start thinking about exhaust. I have a pet peeve about replacing rusted out exhaust systems 2 years after install in the michigan salt.. I have a 4.3 and I will be running true dual exhaust all the way back. I plan to use stainless pipe and mufflers. My goal is for it to be so quiet I can't hear it run.
What diameter pipes should I run? I can squeak 2" past the d300 on the drivers side, a little bigger if I squeeze the pipe oblong.
What is a good,quiet, small muffler? The stock system had a resonator on it? Do I need to think about using these?
Thx for any help!
 

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I need to start thinking about exhaust. I have a pet peeve about replacing rusted out exhaust systems 2 years after install in the michigan salt.. I have a 4.3 and I will be running true dual exhaust all the way back. I plan to use stainless pipe and mufflers. My goal is for it to be so quiet I can't hear it run.
What diameter pipes should I run? I can squeak 2" past the d300 on the drivers side, a little bigger if I squeeze the pipe oblong.
What is a good,quiet, small muffler? The stock system had a resonator on it? Do I need to think about using these?
Thx for any help!
Quiet and small don't usually go together with muffler.

If you do a stainless exhaust make sure you use stainless wire/filler and appropriate shielding gas. Most hangers aren't going to be stainless either.

I really liked using V-band clamps on my exhaust. They make stainless versions. No gaskets and they don't leak.

Make sure to give yourself a little wiggle room with the exhaust going past the transfer case. You don't want it to hit as stuff moves around. Getting the passenger side down pipe to clear the front driveshaft, motor mount, and transfer case will be fun! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #218 (Edited)
I have drivers side drop and I have a clear shot back off of the rear dump of the stock manifold. It should follow the rail all the way back. There is nothing at all in the way on the passenger side. Actually there is a fair amount of room for good sized mufflers behind the step in the tub since I moved the axle back about3 inches.
I don't tig weld so I will have the pro who did my tank weld up the exhaust
 

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when you mount the tank down be careful to stay close to the center. my tank is like yours and I had the mounts near the ends and had problems cracking the welds because of body twist even with 6 point cage
 

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Discussion Starter #220
thanks for the heads up on the mounts! I would not have thought of that. I have 1/8 " rubber sheet on the 3" angle iron on the front upper corner and also in strips under the tank. That, and a tab on the rear to the top of the step should be it. I will use a thick rubber bushing and place the tab in the center.
 
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