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Discussion Starter #221
omix ada headlight retainer rings suck..they might as well be made of tinfoil. the seam/splice kinks and they look like shit basically. Nit picky I know but I put serious cash into led headlamps and I dont want them to look crappy. The TJ rings I have seen at the 4x4 shops are the same thing with the split in the ring. do quality rings exist?
 

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I need to start thinking about exhaust. I have a pet peeve about replacing rusted out exhaust systems 2 years after install in the michigan salt.. I have a 4.3 and I will be running true dual exhaust all the way back. I plan to use stainless pipe and mufflers. My goal is for it to be so quiet I can't hear it run.
What diameter pipes should I run? I can squeak 2" past the d300 on the drivers side, a little bigger if I squeeze the pipe oblong.
What is a good,quiet, small muffler? The stock system had a resonator on it? Do I need to think about using these?
Thx for any help!
This might help. How To Calculate Muffler Size and Exhaust Pipe Diameter | Exhaust Videos
 

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Discussion Starter #224
Thanks!
It is 14 1/2 gallons. I have a 4" pipe I need to turn threads on and I am using a vented cap from a semi truck tank. Should just weld on and using a new rubber grommet. Should look good with the grab bar placed across it. My goal is to add ten more gallons under floor in the back at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #225
made a little progress this weekend. I got the steering in. i used an ididit tilt column and a grant banjo wheel. I made a bracket for the dash out of 2" ID pipe and tapped it for a few set screws to hold it.





my gas tank is about 1/4" thick aluminum. if i drill and tap it to hold a ring to secure the fuel pump will the bolt holes leak gas? is teflon tape good enough to seal them or is there some other stuff I should use?
 

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my gas tank is about 1/4" thick aluminum. if i drill and tap it to hold a ring to secure the fuel pump will the bolt holes leak gas? is teflon tape good enough to seal them or is there some other stuff I should use?
Teflon tape is generally used on tapered threads like pipe fittings.

For straight threads you want to use a tread sealant of some kind. You can find it at most parts stores. Its a white sticky gunk that comes in a tube. I used it on my transfer case rebuild and it seemed to work ok.

The big question is if it is rated for gasoline. That I don't know.

Be careful tapping the tank. Is it really THAT thick? I would stick to something around 10-24 threads or smaller. You can generally drill a slightly smaller pilot hole for the tap with aluminum for a little more thread engagement.

Are you going to have a rubber seal for the fuel pump itself? Why not extend that around the mounting holes?

You could also use some blind nut-serts for mounting holes. They wouldn't have the leak path up the threads.

McMaster-Carr

Go down to the closed end version.
 

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I would make a bolt ring, with a slit in it. The slit will allow you to insert it into the tank. This is what I did. I did a quick search and the pics on this web page will show the bolt ring. Mine was pretty easy to build.

Aeromotive Phantom Fuel Delivery System - Car Craft Magazine

If you do try and tap the aluminum, use a spiral flute tap.
 

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Discussion Starter #228 (Edited)
after staring at it again here is what I think i will do. Cut a flat flange out of 3/16" to go over the hat of the pump. Drill 10holes in it at a diameter just larger than the hat on the fuel pump.
Use the flange as a template to drill 10 holes in the tank is actually 3/16" thick, and tap them. I will use flange top bolts and screw up from from inside the tank. Each bolt will have a viton O ring in addition to fuel safe thread sealer inside the tapped holes. The hat itself also has a viton O ring. then clamp it all down the flange /template. The threads only have to be strong enough to compress the O rings and hold bolt in place while tightening down top flange.
Clear as mud right?
 

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Interesting. Was there not room to stick the sump inside the frame behind the transfer case on the passenger side?
 

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Discussion Starter #232
I also did some more work on the tunnel and got the shifters mounted. I needed to modify the trans support for the cables on the NWF transfer case shifter but it seems to work well. I was impressed how tight I could bend the cables and still have smooth , non binding movement of the cable.







 

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Discussion Starter #233 (Edited)
Interesting. Was there not room to stick the sump inside the frame behind the transfer case on the passenger side?
there were a few reasons I didnt put it inside the frame...which was my first choice:
1. it encroached on the tunnel in the center of the tank which I made with right angles for ease of fabrication. you can see here that I could not move sump to the center far enough to get inside the frame on the passenger side.


2. it would make running exhaust pipe past the transfer case a mess on the drivers side
3 it would have chopped up the hat channels. where I put it was a clean cut between them.
4. anywhere inside the frame would have put the exhaust too close to the sump and i wasconcerned about heating that small amount of fuel at low tank levels.
I figured if the GPW can get away with that huge sump, this little 6"x6" wouldnt get in the way too bad!
 

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If I Drill through I don't need spiral flute tap correct?
Spiral flute tap and magic tap cutting fluid, works great for taping aluminum. I would use the smallest recomended minor diameter drill bit, prior to tapping. Aluminum and steel will have different minor diameters. I would also use that minor diameter drill bit to drill your 3/16" ring as a template, after you transfer the holes you can drill them to the proper size. Also get some small bolts and nuts, so you can bolt /clamp the ring as you go.

Thread - Drill & Tap Chart
 

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WD40 makes GREAT cutting fluid for aluminum.

Find a test piece of aluminum to prove your pilot hole size and tap on. Perfect your technique and then move onto the real thing.

A friend turned me onto power tapping smaller sizes with a variable speed drill. I did a lot of smaller 10-24 size stuff like that. It works well once you get the technique down.
 

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Discussion Starter #238
Finally forced myself to deal with the Tranny brace being in the way of the cable Shifters. I ran some pipe through it and created a passage for the cables. It is VERY tight down there





I also put the Jerry can holder on.

 

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Discussion Starter #240 (Edited)
Started working on the fuel filler neck for the gas tank. It is 4" like the original and I bought a piece of aluminum pipe nd had a thread cut on it.
The cap is from a semi truck diesel tank and says it is vented. It does have a Springed valve in the center but it seems to only move out to release pressure. How can I tell if it will also relieve vacuum? Just trying to figure out if I need a vent. I didn't think I did with huge 4" fill opening since air can easily escape around a gas nozzle during filling but I am concerned about vacuum cited while cap is on and engine is running.



 
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