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Discussion Starter #21
How hard is it to make the shroud that completely covers radiator? Looks like some 16 ga with a hole cut in it and the edges bent over, attach it to the c channel that holds radiator in place and attach the fan? If I have the trans cooler in the radiator I will need max flow
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I think I am going with a griffin radiator with tranny cooler and 16" shroud already on it with a Taurus fan. I have a tranny temp gauge and will monitor temps adding an additional tranny cooler in series if indicated. I understand that JY fans are readily available. The replacement fans are also inexpensive from avariety of sources and for a few extra bucks I would rather not worry about the condition of the junkyard pick. Is it safe to assume that the replacement part will have the same CFM as the OEM part?
 

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I think I am going with a griffin radiator with tranny cooler and 16" shroud already on it with a Taurus fan. I have a tranny temp gauge and will monitor temps adding an additional tranny cooler in series if indicated. I understand that JY fans are readily available. The replacement fans are also inexpensive from avariety of sources and for a few extra bucks I would rather not worry about the condition of the junkyard pick. Is it safe to assume that the replacement part will have the same CFM as the OEM part?
Why a taurus and not the volvo unit? The volvo is just about the same thing but has a nice mounting flange from the factory.....

Just make sure you get a full replacement OEM fan, not just an auxiliary fan that comes up when you look up fans at most parts places.
 

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Why a taurus and not the volvo unit? The volvo is just about the same thing but has a nice mounting flange from the factory.....

Just make sure you get a full replacement OEM fan, not just an auxiliary fan that comes up when you look up fans at most parts places.
Taurus fans move a ton of cfm and are cheap at the junkyard and are usually very common/easy to find. Don't know how that compares to the volvo fan but that's the reason most go with the taurus.
 

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Taurus fans move a ton of cfm and are cheap at the junkyard and are usually very common/easy to find. Don't know how that compares to the volvo fan but that's the reason most go with the taurus.
I think most go with the Taurus fan because they don't know about the volvo fan :)

It uses the same motor as the Taurus basically the fan blade is SLIGHTLY smaller but has a nice flat built in mounting flange. They are also available as OEM replacements for a dang fair price....$60 or so.

I know the Taurus was a good fan but the mounting always kinda sucked.

The 95-97 Ford Thunderbird or Mercury Cougar fans where also a nice unit. They are kinda like the larger Mark 8 fans. Ford Contours look nice if you have the room too.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I thought the Volvo had a better shroud for mounting to radiator, but if it has a better flange on the fan I will go that route. With the concern over cooling I have been reading about plus my added auto trans component I am getting the perfect seal from a factory shroud just to make sure I maximize cooling.
 

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I thought the Volvo had a better shroud for mounting to radiator, but if it has a better flange on the fan I will go that route. With the concern over cooling I have been reading about plus my added auto trans component I am getting the perfect seal from a factory shroud just to make sure I maximize cooling.
The volvo shroud may work out ok, but what makes the Volvo fan so nice is that the fan assembly unbolts from the shroud. This leaves you a nice little 1/2"-5/8" flange around the fan cage to bolt to any flat surface.

While cooling is a concern I think your taking the proper steps. A good radiator, a proper shroud, and a good fan with go a long way towards proper cooling. The only thing to consider is how you might go about getting more air OUT of the engine compartment.

You can have the largest radiator possible but if the hot air can't flow out from inside the engine compartment you will be fighting up a long hill. The engine compartments on flat fenders are just so dang cramped that there isn't a ton of room for air. I'm not saying go this way, but a LOT of old school hot rod V8 flat fenders had hood louvers for a reason....or removed inner fenders....or a raised back of the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Does this sound right?
Griffin 22"x19" with tranny cooler= $240
Griffin +tranny cooler and shroud, no fan = $480
That's a lot of money for 4 sq ft of aluminum ,
,
 

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I'd just make your own shroud.

The 95-97 ford thunderbird or mercury cougar 4.6v8 electric fan looks like it would be just about a perfect fit on a 22x19 radiator. The shroud would cover the tanks also but I don't think that is an issue.

just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Santa dropped off a couple items today...






It looks like the LED headlamp sticks back about 2 1/2" from the face of the grill. I do not know if this is an improvement over a regular bulb or not.
I need to decide if I am going to have radiator between headlights (approx 18" x 18") or behind the lamps (28" x 18") Going behind would cost me 2 1/2" of space to move my motor forward and hopefully get a workable rear shaft length. Soooo... the million dollar question, will the smaller radiator with a tranny cooler in it, super tight shroud and taurus/volvo fan cool a 4.3?
For the headlamps my search has not shown a source for the headlamp hardware including housing, bucket, bulb retainer. The trim rings are easy to get. Is there a NOS source for those items? I found some used ones but not sure of the shape they are in. It looks like the chrome on the bulb retainer is exposed so it would be easier to find a good one than have a crappy one redone.
cheers
glenn
 

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What about using a pusher fan and putting it on the void between the rad and grill if you get a 28" rad. I think the room would be the same that way but with a larger rad. If the 22x18 w Taurus fan doesn't work for me that's what I'll try next. But I don't have a trans cooler. It's a stick and less heat.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #32
using a pusher is a thought, but i think they are less effective because they dont use a shroud?
cutting extra steel off of back of grill today, any special tricks /tools?
debating quick with cutting wheel on grinder, or slow and no big "oops" with dremel
 

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I just did this 2days ago. I cut every just above the seam with a cut off wheel. Which then allowed me To use a drill to get to the spot welds and a hammer and chisel on the ones I couldn't reach. If you spray some wd-40 the spot welds are way easier to see


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #34
If the shroud steel is cut close to flush with the back of the slats and flap disc to finish/smooth is it any benefit to drill out spot welds? Looks like filling and smoothing spot weld holes is a bad angle, and hammer chisel could cause more finish work later...
 

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I was looking in to LED lights for head lights but every thing I found is way to expensive. Whos do you have there and how much were they? Also is there any special wiring to consider when running LEDs?
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Cutting frame rails square, I was surprised how much the rails moved after I welded the circles in the templates. In retrospect I should have waited to attach the bumpers and cross members to keep it straight during welding. Had to clamp it to welding table and heat with a torch to get it straight again!


Squared up, used piece of aluminum tube to avoid tape measure sag. Put piece of tape on tube to mark distance and just moved it for adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Welding class continues, plenty of practice doing the circles on the templates. JCR weld it yourself front bumper, 3x4" rear bumper with 1/2" tabs and hitch receiver, and rough stuff shackle mounts.









 
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