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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
space for new seats. will definately have to trim wheel wells back



new seats are done. twisted stitch with lumbar support and 2 setting heated seats. found a nice vinyl that feels like leather instead of plastic. they were very good about using a fabric not on their stock list. I ordered with the short seat cushion because so many people seem to complain about the seat sticking forward too far. they come with a nice sliding adjustment assembly that I will try to use on e the drivers side. The passenger side I will just permanently mount as far back as possible. Since there was no dealer in my area to test fit my ass to the seat I ordered one regular and one 2" extra wide. I figured which ever fit me best goes on the drivers side...



wheels and tires are ready to go. 17 x 8.5 monster beadlocks with 33 wrangler kevlar



had at the shroud on the grill tonight. stupid spotwelds a pain again. After trying to get them to pop without drilling through the front of the sheet metal, i gave up and used a metal cutting dremel tool. it worked nicely and i didnt bend the grill at all. i just hit it with a flap disc when i was done and it is ready for the griffen radiator that is 2 1/2 weeks back ordered...not that i dont have plenty t do before I need it





 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
In Chicago all week and not much here for me to work on. So I started trying to remove the foam from the inside of my arctic top. Even 60 years old the stuff is a total pain to get out


First attempt was paint scraper and heat gun. Result was toxic fumes snd not alot of progress. Next was to use hammer and chisel under the foam with the paint scraper which got me pretty close to metal then a quick pass with flap disc cleaned it up. Last step will be sander so i dont make any gouges in the thin aluminum sheet



 

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Are you going to put something back on the inside of the top to help with noise?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I am going to start with line-x and see if noise control and stopping cold conduction is adequate. If it is not i will redo it with foam or neoprene or something and recover with line-x to seal it up.
The rear window is almost useless it is so small....can i just cut a bigger hole and auto glass place can make glass to fit and provide new seal?
 

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Those look like the same seats I have in my flatty (Apex model?) If they are, you will like them! They are quite comfortable :smokin:

Did you get the short bottom cushion as well?

As for the fender wells, here's what mine looks like (A friend of mine did the work!), we made it so that the fender well matches the angle of the seat. The seats sit a good ways farther back than factory, just perfect for the pedals, and easy to get in and out of (I'm just a smidge shorter than 6 feet tall). I do need to bend the shifter arm back a bit, it will be just perfect then :) We probably could have gotten away with not having them quite so far back (maybe an inch or two less) but it really is a comfortable position, and since the willis is my daily driver (well, it was my DD before I started the engine swap, and will be again after it's done!) a comfortable driving position was what I was after.









 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Your seats were why I went with twisted stitch! I did one + 2" wide just in case it is too snug in normal width, or I "grow" into them. I also ordered them with the higher backs and the short bottom cushion.
What are dimensions of the triangle footprint? So i can tell how far in from the side of the jeep to start the cut and how far to go back.
I am 6'1" so whatever you cut out might be just what I need.
Your version looks simpler than the notching method.
 

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Your seats were why I went with twisted stitch! I did one + 2" wide just in case it is too snug in normal width, or I "grow" into them. I also ordered them with the higher backs and the short bottom cushion.
What are dimensions of the triangle footprint? So i can tell how far in from the side of the jeep to start the cut and how far to go back.
I am 6'1" so whatever you cut out might be just what I need.
Your version looks simpler than the notching method.
Ah, right on :D

I'll measure it tonight if I remember. With no lift on the suspension, the 31" tires did rub a bit on the fender well that was pushed back. I've not had a chance to try it with the lifted suspension yet, since it's out of commission for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I will be on 33's so i may have to taper the inside corner like you mentioned in your thread. Is your axle stock location or is it moved back? I plan to be 2 or 3" back with mine so that should help too.
 

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Your axles are a bit wider too, you should have a decent amount of clearance in that location...
 

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Wow, this is going to be great.
Subscribed :smokin:
You are still on time to stretch that body :D
 

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Discussion Starter #55
So first big hurdle.... I ordered a novak adapter to mate the 4L60E and the flipped D300. The adapter was ordered with the holes placed for a flipped application and came with a single set of six holes in the correct pattern. The adapter bolts perfectly to the transmission, but it is physically impossible to join the tranny and transfer case with the holes in the provided position because the d300 lever supports hit the flange and the shift rails hit the tranny pan









Shaving off the linkage supports will help, but the shift rails will still hit the tranny pan. Clocking the transfer case up might allow the shift rail to clear ( by millimeters)but that requires the adapter holes to go right in the same position as the support gussets.
One option: shave off gussets and weld new ones that do not block holes?
Anyone with 4l60e to flipped d300 encounter this or have a work around?
 

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A total pain but....shorten the shift rails slightly? I think there is a lot of extra meat beyond the shift linkage mounting hole that could be eliminated.
 

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That's what mine ran into, the adapter was so short it did not move the tcase back far enough to clear the trans with the shifters. Option was to remove the left 1/2 of the shift fork mount and run 2-stick but only use the right hole for mounting both shift levers. This only get a little more rotation though. I resolved to leave the tcase where it was and move on.
Even called AA and they said it aint gonna happen.:shaking:
 

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why not redrill the hole pattern in the adaptor flange to clock it different? I have the AA version which is very similar and want to clock mine differently then they drilled it. Make a template with some card stock and rotate to desired position.
I think the new pattern would be right in the middle of the cast gussets on the other side of the adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
i cannot tell by the pic if that shift rail is fully extended or not, if it is it seems only a couple degrees rotation will put it over the trans pan lip, and if I cut of that tab with the screw holding the black bracket to the trans it will be able to extend quite a bit farther. I am using the reverse mount northwest fab cable shifter so in the flipped position the cables come from the back and below the transfer case so there will be no additional linkage on the front of the rails but the arms extend down from the notches in the shift rail so they would still hit the tranny pan. might have to see how far back i can extend the notch to move arm to farthest back point, then the end of rail can extend over the pan.
doesnt look like much to gain in the pic below.

 
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