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Just read your entire thread and I'm encouraged by the fact that you stuffed a 4spd auto without stretching the body as I was under the impression that was next to impossible. I'm lazy and want an auto with an OD so this is very good news to me.
 

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Have you tried reverse bleeding? ( pushing fluid from the calipers up to the master cylinder )

That solved all my problems. I went from the pump/hold/crack for HOURS to being able to bleed the entire system by myself in like 10 minutes.

I used a small yard sprayer to build a contraption to do it. A tight fitting hose on the bleed screw seems to be enough to work past a 2psi residual valve. I am sure there is some kind of fitting that would work better.

You can also get a 2nd master cylinder cap and glue a hose fitting onto it. Pressurize the system with a large volume of extra fluid and open the bleeder screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #724 (Edited)
I love the look of your jeep with no flares. Your build was one that I followed while building mine. My flares may look like shit but here's what my rig looks like after a full day wheeling at Rausch Creek!

Note the lack of mud on the doors and side of the top, just saying. You can tell by the tires we were in some mud. These fenders were made to be legal here in Delaware. I thought I would make some way smaller panels to replace them after inspection, but after wheeling them many times with similar results I've decided they are just fine. My old CJ5 with Desert Dogs and no flares was basically a mud pump, picking up mud and pumping it into the jeep.
Yep, I may need to design a bikini that is built like an envelope so that the attached soft doors and rear panel can be folded up under the bikini > or something like yours attached with a magnet and stowable. You top turned out cool! i likw the look of the rivets!
 

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Discussion Starter #725
Just read your entire thread and I'm encouraged by the fact that you stuffed a 4spd auto without stretching the body as I was under the impression that was next to impossible. I'm lazy and want an auto with an OD so this is very good news to me.
It is possible and the jeep drives true and steady at 85 mph, but it is not an optimal setup for offroad with a 13.5" rear driveshaft
 

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The bikini plan looks pretty good to me. It would be good for unexpected rainstorms too. It will probably need some real strong magnets to hold the doors down.
 

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I tried strong magnets on mine along the bottom edge of the doors during the UA2015 trip. It worked ok, but eventually the magnets started to rip through the fabric in the doors. With the wind buffeting they would slide up and end up on the top of the door rail also.

If I was going to do it again, I would do the quarter turn boat style fasteners along the lower edge. The front edge on mine was screwed to the windshield frame. The top and back edge was industrial velcro. The doors rolled up against the windshield frame when not in use. It was nice that you could actually 'deploy' the doors while driving if you where careful.

My windjammer rolls up under the B-pillar in the cage.

Overall it worked pretty well for something I made out of tarps from Home Depot and window material from Walmart sewn together on a $20 thrift store machine....

 

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Discussion Starter #730
The bikini plan looks pretty good to me. It would be good for unexpected rainstorms too. It will probably need some real strong magnets to hold the doors down.
I was thinking having the door "inside" velcro to the inside of the door opening and velcro straps to the a pillar of the cage. It would just be a quick thing for the unexpected like you said.
Rare earth magnets are cheap and it is easy to get with 20-30 lb attraction. my plan for fender flares is match the arc of my rear wheel well with a piece of 16 ga that is 6' wide, weld some tabs to it and use the magnets to secure it to the inside of the body panel wheel well. 4 magnets holding it in place can have approx 100 lbs force so it wont go anywhere. I should be able to do something similar on the front fenders.
I can stow them in my lock box in the back.
 

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That sounds like a plan. It will make for some interesting reading.
As far as the brake bleeding goes, I've had real good luck with good old gravity. Put a hose on the bleeder, crack it open, wait five or ten minutes. Once it actually starts moving through there you can watch the bubbles come out. Leave the cap off the reservoir and top it off as it goes. My wife loves it when she doesn't have to help with that!
 

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That sounds like a plan. It will make for some interesting reading.
As far as the brake bleeding goes, I've had real good luck with good old gravity. Put a hose on the bleeder, crack it open, wait five or ten minutes. Once it actually starts moving through there you can watch the bubbles come out. Leave the cap off the reservoir and top it off as it goes. My wife loves it when she doesn't have to help with that!
So no pumping of the brake pedal?


Just let gravity help the fluid find it's way out?
 

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You can also get a 2nd master cylinder cap and glue a hose fitting onto it. Pressurize the system with a large volume of extra fluid and open the bleeder screws.

So the hose is attached to a pressurizing container of brake fluid on one end and glued/clamped to a master cylinder cap on the other?
 

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So no pumping of the brake pedal?


Just let gravity help the fluid find it's way out?
Yes, that's the deal. If it's lower than the reservoir it will run right out. When the master cylinder is fully released it opens past the little hole in the bottom of the reservoir to refill itself for the next pump. It is essentially wide open then. Sometimes it takes way longer than you would think, but once it starts it develops a good flow and the bubbles move on through.
 

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Yes, that's the deal. If it's lower than the reservoir it will run right out. When the master cylinder is fully released it opens past the little hole in the bottom of the reservoir to refill itself for the next pump. It is essentially wide open then. Sometimes it takes way longer than you would think, but once it starts it develops a good flow and the bubbles move on through.
Very interesting.
 

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Sent you a PM. Adjusting your original design for different length springs in the rear and just wanted to see how you did it.
 
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