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Are you planning on tying the cage into the frame? If so don't worry about body mount. Mount your body through the cage. But if you plan on just running the cage to the floor than yes, you drill hole through the front hat channel.

Frame looks great by the way!
 

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I think most of the aftermarket body makers leave the hat channels undrilled since they are not super spot on, and/or the factory frames where not THAT consistent.

There should be 3 places on each side in the belly section where you can drill the hat channel to add a body mount.

Overall there are a LOT of places the body bolted to the frame. In my opinion with a non-flexy boxed frame you don't need ALL the factory mounting locations, especially in the front with the fenders. I think an MB/GPW tub had something like 15-19+ total mounting bolts or something....

The frame looks good. I have to admit the 6" belly section does look a bit tall to me, but I am use to the 4" version on mine where you can't really even see it.
 

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I think the other thing that most do... when you drill the hat channel, go back and sleeve that with tubing so it doesn't crush down when you tighten the bolts. The originals had wood in the channels, from what I've seen the aftermarket tubs don't.
 

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Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
sleeving the channel is a good idea. i will do that.
i have several pics of the axle and drive train work. I watched some of the process and learned alot but I did not do the work myself so I apologize that I lack commentary on the pics. The specialized tools and technical knowledge to do this work are beyond my skills and it seemed a better use of my time to have it done. i have a jeep YJ d30 up front and jeep TJ d44 in back. Both now have true track and 4.88 gears. The d30 has eliminated the vacuum disconnect and now has solid shaft with the larger Ujoints. Both are disc brakes. the d300 transfer case has the rail grinding mod to allow true front wheel drive. the 4l60e had new sunshell and 3/4 clutchpack upgrades based on my tranny guys suggestion.

Jeep TJ d44










d30 and d44









 

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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)




rods were pitted and only one is available to purchase new, the other is no longer manufactured (wierd I know) so Meiser was kind enough to help out and polish out the pitting so I dont have leaks!
before



after



grinding mod



new spline shaft from novak that comes with 4l60e to d300 adapter. 23 spline fits the d300 input shaft

 

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Discussion Starter #87
no luck finding good original door handles for the arctic top so I searched out a door knob that I think can be modified to fit and looks pretty good.

 

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Discussion Starter #88
i will be setting the body and hopefully the drive train this week. i have what I think will be a good enough radiator/electric fan and shroud. My question is if the overheat problems people have raised on the board are strictly in high load, low speed situations or if there is also a problem at say 30-60 mph. my idea is to use a 2x4" cross member flat under the radiator to support it and run the front brake lines on. Would it be useful to cut speed holes along the leading and trailing edges (2" edge) and weld a 3-4" piece of steel from the trailing lower corner angled up at a 45* angle to direct air up and into the engine compartment at speed. below is a bad drawing of what I mean. Think this is a waste of time or helpful to get more air movement in engine compartment?

 

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My cooling issues are at higher speeds and medium loads. 50mph or so with when using light power.

The issue isn't getting air in the engine compartment, its getting it back out.

I don't think a 2x4 crossmember will fit under the grill. I used a 1" tall crossmember and it was really tight with the steering shaft.

Weight adds up, if you have a full bumper you do not need another full 2x4 crossmember under the grill.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I thought your steering went over your 1" cross member? Mine probably will because my radiator hangs down 1-1 1/2". If that is the case having it extend down another inch shouldnt matter. I would swiss cheese it with so many holes I think the weight addition would be negligible.
It seems that forcing new air in would force old (and warm) air out. The air passing under the vehicle should pull some air down and out at the firewall.
Is there a flaw in my thoughts? I am not looking to add work to the project, but cooling seems to be an issue and little things can add up....
 

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I thought your steering went over your 1" cross member? Mine probably will because my radiator hangs down 1-1 1/2". If that is the case having it extend down another inch shouldnt matter. I would swiss cheese it with so many holes I think the weight addition would be negligible.
It seems that forcing new air in would force old (and warm) air out. The air passing under the vehicle should pull some air down and out at the firewall.
Is there a flaw in my thoughts? I am not looking to add work to the project, but cooling seems to be an issue and little things can add up....
My 1" tall crossmember is flush with the bottom of the frame. If it hangs down more it would start to get into the space for the steering linkage.

You would think there would be more airflow, but there isn't. The engine compartment gets FULL with the engine, brake stuff, radiator, etc. There just isn't much room for the air to go and it gets trapped. Even with my hole in the hood for the plenum there isn't enough flow. My radiator is a little marginal, but air flow is still an issue in almost every flat fender, especially with full inner fenders.....

Getting the air out is probably more important that forcing more in....
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Put in a few days on the project last week and made some progress....which created new issues....
My knock sensor is now blocked by my header...after reading up many have used an angled brass fitting to changed the direction of the sensor so the harness plug will fit on it. Some say it dampens vibrations and impedes the signal which would make sense. If I go with the " street elbow" should I avoidteflon tape because itmaydampen signal. What sealing tape /putty would be best?

 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
I got the body mounts and cross member in. I have the drive train in place. It is offset 1" to the passenger side.this left quite a bit of room on the drivers side for steering and brakes. Overall the motor looks like it will be a good fit. I have the motor oil pan 1 " below frame which gives me over 4" to clear throttle intake.the tranny pan is flush with the bottom of frame rails. I used the Novak engine mounts and was very impressed with the design. Super easy to put in and very adjustable if necessary later .


Tranny support, will gusset later



Mover tight to fan






 

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Discussion Starter #94
I think the other thing that most do... when you drill the hat channel, go back and sleeve that with tubing so it doesn't crush down when you tighten the bolts. The originals had wood in the channels, from what I've seen the aftermarket tubs don't.
Repro tub has wood in hat channels
 

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My original tub hat channel had hickory wood I think looked and smelled like it. My new repo. tub from the Philippines Kiser/willys 1944 gpw had mahogany in the hat channel.
 

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Put in a few days on the project last week and made some progress....which created new issues....
My knock sensor is now blocked by my header...after reading up many have used an angled brass fitting to changed the direction of the sensor so the harness plug will fit on it. Some say it dampens vibrations and impedes the signal which would make sense. If I go with the " street elbow" should I avoidteflon tape because itmaydampen signal. What sealing tape /putty would be best?]
I have had to do the same thing. Use what ever you have to seal the treads. It will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
also need 90* plug wires and shorty spark plugs. I will still be very close to the headers. there are a lot of heat sleeves made to cover the wires...anyone know which kind works best?
 

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also need 90* plug wires and shorty spark plugs. I will still be very close to the headers. there are a lot of heat sleeves made to cover the wires...anyone know which kind works best?
lots of options, scroll down you will see the 90* heat shields, good pick up on those door handles, I had hell w my Acme Fiberglass top on my CJ5, never found anything as close to what you found.

http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=spark plug wire heat&SortBy=None&SortOrder=Ascending
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Got two good days in on the project this weekend. Driveline is all in and tacked, and the axles are in place.
To set the drive line I ended up bringing the engine up as far as possible with air intake just under the ridge of the center of the hood. Then I moved the engine as far as possible to the passengers side as the mounts (novak)to maximize room for exhaust, steering and brake booster on the drivers side. Offset ended up being only 3/4" but the 4.3 is quite flush to the rear so no need to match the notch with the distributor or anything. The drivetrain ended up 1 1/2" below the frame which surprised me, but left no options if I didn't want to cut the hood. I could have raised the tranny/transfer up but I am VERY short on rear drive shaft and don't want to increase the angle so I left it.
I placed the axles using a single leaf on each side per meiser's instruction. This was very helpful in identifying issues at full compression.
Issue list:
Front lower pulley will hit axle at full compression....I may try to modify the stock spring perch to let the front axle move forward half an inch and then it will clear. I will definitely need bump stops.
Drivers motor mount impinges on the front drive shaft(I have flipped d300)....I am going to try to mod the mount to raise it 1 1/4" so I have better clearance.
Rear end is hitting the wheel well so I cannot yet let it compress fully, but it appears that in current axle position my rear shaft length is only 11 1/2":eek:
Tom Woods says they make a CV shaft at that length and allow 1 1/2" strove in each direction with 3" of engagement. I hope it works. I still have the extra hole on the perch to move the rear axle back 1" if I need to.

Some pics, first ones just fun because I felt like I made a lot of progress....right









Front diff pinion facing the motor mount


Pulley on axle

 
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