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I am working on my fuel tank design. It will straddle the tunnel and occupy the space beneath both seats. I plan to have a sump cut through the floor on the passenger side because exhaust is on the drivers side. I can drop it 6" below floor because I used 2x6 frame rails on the belly of the frame and I will protect it with some kind of gusseted skid plate. I will run a hard line from drivers side to the sump for complete fuel transfer past the bump for the tunnel. I need a complete drop in tank fuel pump setup. I would like it to include sender unit for gauge and fuel return line hookup. I need minimum 60 psi.
I have used Walbro in the past and have found them to be quiet and reliable but I have not found a complete drop in universal kit. HAS anyone used or seen one, or maybe suggest a good alternate? Quiet is important as it is essentially in the cab.
I think trying to use an off the shelf in tank fuel pump should be nice. The fittings for the feed and return are going to have to be under the seat which will cost you a little room. You will also need to route those lines through the floor at some point.

The fuel level sender, if it is a lever arm float style, will likely need some modification since the tank shape vs capacity is going to be a little odd. I would imagine that you would need to shorten the rod so that the float travels from the top to the bottom of the MAIN part of the tank to get a somewhat accurate reading. I would just ignore the fuel capacity of the sump since it will probably be less than a gallon.

I would see if you can find a good parts house to pull some pump assemblies off the shelf. Using a GM sending unit will most likely be best. I would start with all the factory applications for your engine and go from there. I would imagine that there should be a factory pump unit that is about 9" deep or so. Most of them also have a little adjustment built in.

Finding a way to attach the pump assembly to the tank could be interesting. Goatbuilt uses a factory GM pump assembly on his Ibex buggies I think. That would be a good place to start for the mounting ring stuff....
 

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Discussion Starter #165 (Edited)
$471 for the kit with the foam baffle thing....and it doesnt have a sending unit.....ouch! I guess either I get just the pump and attach it to a different hanger or I go with a delco stock replacement system complete for <$200. I really dont need 340 lph which will support >500 hp which is the aeromotive target market
 

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Discussion Starter #166
I am getting ready to tack in the mounting plate for my steering box. Because or the design of the front bumper the box has to set a bit low on the frame. Is this a problem?

 

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Discussion Starter #167
Got a few more days work in on the project.
I put a 3/16" plate on the firewall to eliminate brake flex. I cut out the "L" shape and left the rest on the sheet metal there. I used an xj pedal from automatic and pushed up on the firewall as far as it would go. This put the pedal at a good height and it slid past the steering column on the left side. My nitrile glove is the spring to test the pedal






I used a dual chamber master with 7" booster and had plenty of room. Went with chrome to fend off michigan salt.





I moved the rear axle back 1" to increase shaft length. It is now just shy of 13" and 14 degree angle.
With the axle set I cut out the rear fender wells. I went about as far back as possible. I painted the fender and wheel well black to see how it would look...hard to tell it isn't cut!



Now it's cut with some primer to show the finish edge



Started on the trans tunnel but waiting for front driveshaft to check ujoint clearance. I got lucky and the pinion angle on front driveshaft points to transfer case shackle within 1/2 degree so I am going with CV shaft. This should help with vibrations at speed as I have no lockouts

 

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Did you end up cutting the top of the XJ pedal bracket off to get the pedal assembly higher?

I think you might need to cut the fender back just a hair more if the new tires are going to be any larger. Watch that sharp rear corner too. Now that my rear springs are getting broke in more I need to trim my opening back another 1/4" or so since things are moving around easier.

Keep up the good work. Its really starting to look like something now!
 

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Discussion Starter #169
the brake pedal assembly went in without modification. I have about 5 inch travel from the pedal to the floor., it feels good where it is at. If I need to adjust it later I will shim the the bottom of the bracket to a increase the pedal distance from the firewall more. I do not think it will need to be raised vertically
I will be spot welding a new lip on the fender cut out. & I trimmed that lower back sharp corner off and rounded it.
 

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When you use the brake pedal where does it hit your foot?

One thing that kinda annoys me about mine is that the pedal is a little long and hits my foot low. Part of this is the pedal location, part of it is the long seat bottoms. I can't get my foot back far enough to get the toes of ball of the foot on the pedal.

If your mocking up the tank with that plywood I would think about shortening it up to the point where you can put your foot flat on the floor without the toe hitting the 1st bend in the floor. This will be much more comfortable sometimes than having your foot forward on the slope all the time.
 

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Those of yall who cut the wheel wells in the rear, do yall just leave it as is? or do you take a thin strip and make a lip again, like the factory lip? Just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #173
When you use the brake pedal where does it hit your foot?

One thing that kinda annoys me about mine is that the pedal is a little long and hits my foot low. Part of this is the pedal location, part of it is the long seat bottoms. I can't get my foot back far enough to get the toes of ball of the foot on the pedal.

If your mocking up the tank with that plywood I would think about shortening it up to the point where you can put your foot flat on the floor without the toe hitting the 1st bend in the floor. This will be much more comfortable sometimes than having your foot forward on the slope all the time.
the ball of my foot hits the right lower part of the brake pedal. The short cushion seats are perfect. I cannot imagine them being longer, there would be no space for my feet. The tank under the seats is only 11" wide and is a couple inches back from the front edge of the seat cushion so the combined effect gives me a comfortable relaxed foot position. The wood in the pic is just a height support for the seat, it does not represent the tank width. The tank should be about 17 gallons.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Those of yall who cut the wheel wells in the rear, do yall just leave it as is? or do you take a thin strip and make a lip again, like the factory lip? Just curious.
I am going to put a new lip on it. My plan is to brake a 1 1/2" wide piece of 16 gauge 90 degrees the long way, cut a slice every inch on one side and bend it around the wheel well. I have a spot welder at the shop so I can burn each little tab as I work around the well. After that I hope it is easy to put a million tacks at the seam and burn smooth with old flap disc. The seam should be right at the corner so I dont mess up the flat panel of the fender
 

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Discussion Starter #175
I am working on resolving the issue with my plugs so close to my headers. Accel makes a "header" plug that is supposed to be short but rumor has it they are no shorter than NGK, or AC. I would lov e to shorten the plugs up 1/2" for the sake of the plug boots...anyone got a suggestion for a 2012 4.3?
also any feed back on these?

ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ferro-Spiral Spark Plug Wire Sets 9044

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-9044/overview/
I will need some kind of 90 degree boot. these claim big heat resistance.
I will also put a protective sleeve over each boot/wire
 

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Discussion Starter #177 (Edited)
Back to work on the jeep....
I put in the sanderson headers and I cannot understand the design unless there is some difference in very late model 4.3 motors.
Mine is a 2012 and here is the drivers side output. It essentially turns back into the block and is impossible to attach anything to the flange. Not to mention the. 1/4" clearance of the spark plug and the same for the temp sending unit. The header flange actually hits the knock sensor.
I have been searching for headers that have a better fit but nothing seems to exit in the right space. I have a flipped d300 so I need to cross from drivers side to passenger side under the oil pan so I need to dump way forward or just behind the motor mount.
Anyone have any ideas or pics of their solutions?










I got the front 2 " woods CV shaft in... I have zero clearance to the shift lever on the 4L 60e trans...need to figure that out...






I picked up some F 250 spring perches for $17 each at the dealer. I know nothing about setting up shocks. The d30 front axle still has the stock mounts. Can anyone tell me a reason not to weld up the mount where I have it clamped in this pic? The 2x2 spindle is in the shock location. What is ideal shock position? Vertical front to rear and bottom as close to wheel as possible. Does the degree of angle in toward the center of jeep important? How much is too much?
Thanks for any help!

This is very informative
http://www.4x4review.com/everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-shock-absorbers/






 

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Discussion Starter #178
Playing with brake booster. Should i be able to move posh rod by hand without vacuum? It only moves 1/2" or so. Just want to make sure that is normal.
 

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One of the old school tricks with exhaust manifolds was to swap them side to side. This sometimes could allow the exhaust to dump forward on one side or fix over fitment issues.

Your situation looks pretty dang fun. Don't forget you need to get a steering shaft in there too....and power steering lines....and power steering pump...and alternator....and and and.....:barf:

This is the stuff that is just a total pain in the rear to sort through.

The answer in the end may well be a set of custom headers to be able to do what you want. I know that isn't the answer you probably wanted, but at least then it will be done just right. If they are coated or stainless they should last forever. My advise would be to ditch the flange to flange coupling at the collector and go to a v-band style unit.

With these old flat fenders things get TIGHT quick!
 
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