[Chrisfol82]

Hey thats looking pretty good so far. Looks like the passenger sie might not be a bad option. Although having the compressor output pointing up might be better if your not running an intercooler right away. Im sure you already know that though.

One thing you might consider coudl be running a megasquirt or other fuel injection controller. Thats what i have mine running on. You coudl actually run distributorless ignition too controlled by the megasquirt, so you can control your spark control and get that distributor out of the way for more clearance.

 

[jpfrk2001]

Hey thats looking pretty good so far. Looks like the passenger sie might not be a bad option. Although having the compressor output pointing up might be better if your not running an intercooler right away. Im sure you already know that though.

One thing you might consider coudl be running a megasquirt or other fuel injection controller. Thats what i have mine running on. You coudl actually run distributorless ignition too controlled by the megasquirt, so you can control your spark control and get that distributor out of the way for more clearance.

Im going to design the system modular to be ready for an intercooler. In place of the intercooler will be a straight pipe in front of the Radiator.

Im considering a megasquirt from the start. Its just the money thing. this will be an ongoing nonstop thing till I get where I want. Its all done in stages

 

[YJ_and_Corey]

This really isn't that hard. The Hardest part of this is when I try to get the engine to run on boost while the ECU will fight me the entire time! Thats what Im worried about.

Huh? Thats the easy part.

You buy the two bar MAP I recommend and I send you the maps you need.
Or download them off my engine build thread.

Easy.

 

[Blackjeep2]

Very cool! Keep the pics coming.

 

[wckdyj]

Huh? Thats the easy part.

You buy the two bar MAP I recommend and I send you the maps you need.
Or download them off my engine build thread.

Easy.

you have a way to burn the stock ECU? Or are you talking full standalone?

Please elaborate.

Chris

 

[jpfrk2001]

I think he is talking about full stand alone. It would be cool to reprogramm an OBD1 system. But I hear they are easy to fool.

Chris, can you send me a PM of your Adjustable MAP and a diagram of your vacumn system?

Corey,

Besides a 2 Bar map, what else can I do and still stick with my current stock ECU? I already have a FMU in the plan.

 

[YJ_and_Corey]

Corey,

Besides a 2 Bar map, what else can I do and still stick with my current stock ECU? I already have a FMU in the plan.

No FMU necessary!!! Waste of coin. 30lb injectors, adjustable FPR (Hesco), colder plugs, and 2 bar MAP is all you need dude. I know this because it worked on mine for two years. No detonation, no issues. I using this setup again on the new stroker engine as well. The ODB1 ECU has zero issues with this setup. I have never set a code.

I'm simply talking about a 2 bar MAP, I have fuel maps for it already built for a stock ODB1 4.0L which I posted for download on my engine build thread. All yours for the taking.

 

[YJ_and_Corey]

One more thing,

You may want to remove the grill support from the passenger side. It allows you to move the turbo up, almost to the hood. Which is great if you don't want to cook your alternator and distributor and motor mount. Add a hood louver and you are good to go.

 

[rockrknockr]

interesting build. great pics/narrative. i am learning quite a bit here, thanks:smokin:

 

[jpfrk2001]

Ok, after work today I got a little bit done. This is how you make a round peg fit into a square hole. I started on the up pipe flange and did some more massaging and this is what I ended up with:

I went ahead and removed the excess piping from this after I was done to aid in the most room needed to run a bend up into this.

So after that, I needed to work on bracketry. I need to hardmount this turbo before I can continue on the up pipe. this part of the work Kicked my butt. So I mounted the flange and my first piece of brackets:

And I rigged up another bracket off of the stock A/C mount bracket:

I will build some type of bracket from this location to the bracket coming off the engine mount

Now it was time to remove the engine mount bolt since I will be going off of this as well for a set of brackets. But the engine mount bolt on the passenger side is to long and it interferes with the Alt. So now I have to remove my belt(Gotta loosen the Power steering pump to do this), then I used more bailing wire just to hold the ALT in position, So I can remove the bolt, so I can start more bracket work! ! !

You can see that by this time Im getting frustrated.

So at this point, I just want to get everything apart so tomorrow I can start the brackets. Here is the final pic before I closed the garage and went inside to take a shower, drink a beer and post this for you all:

I like what Corey said about mounting this as high as possible. I will aim for that. But now is the time to just think about a good gameplan. I caught myself thinking of taking short cuts only because I was getting tired and frustrated. So that was the sign to STOP and call it a night. I need time to think and I'm sure I will come up with something good by tomorrow.

I am going to have to go buy a longer bolt for the passenger side motor mount so I have enough space to bolt up some brackets.

So Im off to go watch a movie and have some beer. till then.

 

[hierks]

Those brackets you are making. Are they just for mock up, or are you planning to use them in your final assembly?

 

[hierks]

No FMU necessary!!! Waste of coin. 30lb injectors, adjustable FPR (Hesco), colder plugs, and 2 bar MAP is all you need dude. I know this because it worked on mine for two years. No detonation, no issues. I using this setup again on the new stroker engine as well. The ODB1 ECU has zero issues with this setup. I have never set a code.

I'm simply talking about a 2 bar MAP, I have fuel maps for it already built for a stock ODB1 4.0L which I posted for download on my engine build thread. All yours for the taking.

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I’m sure there are others with this same question. Have you guys ever looked into what would need to be done with a 97 TJ 4.0L? Is this engines computer fussier? How much more work/time/money, if any, goes into fooling this newer engine? I'm sure there are tons of people looking into putting a turbo on their jeep since all these threads have been popping up. I just seem to see mostly YJ people doing them. I plan to do a similar size turbo as jpfrk2001 or Corey’s but on a TJ. Any advice would be great. Thanks.

 

[YJ_and_Corey]

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I’m sure there are others with this same question. Have you guys ever looked into what would need to be done with a 97 TJ 4.0L? Is this engines computer fussier? How much more work/time/money, if any, goes into fooling this newer engine? I'm sure there are tons of people looking into putting a turbo on their jeep since all these threads have been popping up. I just seem to see mostly YJ people doing them. I plan to do a similar size turbo as jpfrk2001 or Corey’s but on a TJ. Any advice would be great. Thanks.

ODBII is a real bitch for turbo in my experience. I'll post more on this after work tonight.

 

[vintagespeed]

Those brackets you are making. Are they just for mock up, or are you planning to use them in your final assembly?

i hope they're going back in the Erector set and not back on the Jeep. :shaking:

 

[jpfrk2001]

Those brackets you are making. Are they just for mock up, or are you planning to use them in your final assembly?

both. I will use them to aid in mock up and final assembly. Another backet will be used on the back side of the flange as well so another bracket will go to the other side of the motor mount. this will equall out as much stress as possible. We'll see how it turns out. Maybe I can get this on the first try? Maybe Not? this is what its all about.

As for fuel management, I am thinking of using an FMU and a 2 BAR MAP.

If I am really forced to buy injectors(Not Cheap) I will buy 44 Lb units. This is the size I calculated running a turbo at 12 psi on a 4.7 stroker engine.

there is a turbo thread on Hardcore for posting up ideas and tricks on this exact setup. Here is the link:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=649011&highlight=turbo

 

[YJ_and_Corey]

i hope they're going back in the Erector set and not back on the Jeep.

Hey Dumbass! What part of "flame free" do you not understand?

 

[miniyota]

interesting set-up. i like inline 6 motors.

a few things i noticed with your set-up, you are going to have to shield everything around that turbo. your spark plug wires are going to be melted the second you get into boost.

get a real intercooler. Isuzu cab-over turbo diesel trucks have a nice front mount intercooler that does not have much drop in pressure.

i take it that is a t3 turbo.

when you welded your new waste gate on did you use rod specifically for cast iron? if not that weld will be cracking pretty fast.

running you exhaust over from the driverside to the passenger-side is also going to cause some major turbo lag. the closer you can place your turbo to the manifold the better off you'll be.

 

[YJ_and_Corey]

interesting set-up. i like inline 6 motors.

running you exhaust over from the driverside to the passenger-side is also going to cause some major turbo lag. the closer you can place your turbo to the manifold the better off you'll be.

FAIL. It doesn't cause excessive lag. Mine, and one of my wheeling buddies, is mounted there - the lag is imperceptible.

get a real intercooler. Isuzu cab-over turbo diesel trucks have a nice front mount intercooler that does not have much drop in pressure.

FAIL. I run non-intercooled with a large methanol injection set-up. Intercoolers are redundant and unnecessary when a proper water/methanol system is employed.

 

[jpfrk2001]

interesting set-up. i like inline 6 motors.

a few things i noticed with your set-up, you are going to have to shield everything around that turbo. your spark plug wires are going to be melted the second you get into boost.

get a real intercooler. Isuzu cab-over turbo diesel trucks have a nice front mount intercooler that does not have much drop in pressure.

i take it that is a t3 turbo.

when you welded your new waste gate on did you use rod specifically for cast iron? if not that weld will be cracking pretty fast.

running you exhaust over from the driverside to the passenger-side is also going to cause some major turbo lag. the closer you can place your turbo to the manifold the better off you'll be.

first:
Shields are already in the works. I didn't spend about 2 years of my life researching turbo's, buying a book on turbo's, as well as doing all my math. You can go to my first post and go to the end and click on that link. then go to post 6 or 7. that is where I go indepth about "turbo systems"

Second:
A intercooler is in the works at a later date. If you go back, I mentioned this system is going to be built and designed in a modular way.

third:
It is a t-3/t-4 hybrid(TO-4)

Fourth:
I think I mentioned this is internally wastegated with a bolt on waste gate change. No welding on this thing.

 

[jpfrk2001]

i hope they're going back in the Erector set and not back on the Jeep. :shaking:

First of all. the material Im using is rated to hold up 400+lb garage doors. I think it can handle a 14 pound turbo. now if you have a better way to do this, please do tell. Im looking for positive suggestions all the time on how to do this with the VERY limited of tools in my garage. I wish I had a 5 Diminsionall, Computer operated, water jet, milling machine. then I could fab tabs and mounts that would look down right professional. Next post will be picks of work done today.