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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I got the motor out of the tracker last night and started pulling the wiring harness. I was expecting a ton of wires under the dash, and I wasn't disappointed. I'll have some pictures later.

I'm sure this has been done hundreds of times, but I'm not finding anything. I saw a few sites and posts that said it was possible, but gave no advice on how to actually do it. This is the first time I've attempted to move fuel injection.

I'm assuming, for right now, just cut plugs that I know I don't need and note the ones I do.

Once I get everything out I was going to go in the house with the wiring harness and cut all the unnecessary stuff back as far as I can without actually tearing the harness apart.

From there, I don't know. Obviously it needs to go in my samurai. I'm not against toggle switches and push buttons, but I'd like for it to be as clean as possible. Maybe factory + 2 or 3 switches, somewhere along there.

I'll have a bunch of other dumb questions as they come up I'm sure. The only motors I've swapped have all been carburated, none of this fancy stuff. :homer:


Also, from a zukioffroad tech library I found:

11. You'll have to install the speedometer that you had modified by Trail Tough. This modification is necessary for your ECM to control the motor properly and it also keeps the sensor light from coming on.

Anyone know about this? My doner tracker was in a rollover and the speedometer assembly is trashed, so I can't steal anything from that.
 

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Ack's FAQ Site Map is a huge help... It will give you information on what wires you will need from the ECM to create a stand alone harness... I have done both the 8v and 16v with success and am now working on a 2.0 swap...
You will need to find your model year on ACK's FAQ's and search out the ECM pinout...

Some of the best advice I can give is this... Try to get the harness out of the donor in one piece... DO NOT cut any wires untill all the harness is on the floor. Then you can eliminate the lights and chassis harness from the engine harness. DO NOT cut any of the harness on the engine... NONE OF IT untill you are sure what sensors you will need and not need depending if you need to do emissions testing in your area.

Hooking up the vehicle speed sensor on the back of the speedometer is not nesisary unless you are trying to get past emissions in your state or area. This can be eliminated if need be. There are other sensors that can be eliminated from the equation as well but you will decide as you build your harness on what to keep and what not to hook up.

Kelly
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ack's FAQ Site Map is a huge help... It will give you information on what wires you will need from the ECM to create a stand alone harness... I have done both the 8v and 16v with success and am now working on a 2.0 swap...
You will need to find your model year on ACK's FAQ's and search out the ECM pinout...

Some of the best advice I can give is this... Try to get the harness out of the donor in one piece... DO NOT cut any wires untill all the harness is on the floor. Then you can eliminate the lights and chassis harness from the engine harness. DO NOT cut any of the harness on the engine... NONE OF IT untill you are sure what sensors you will need and not need depending if you need to do emissions testing in your area.

Hooking up the vehicle speed sensor on the back of the speedometer is not nesisary unless you are trying to get past emissions in your state or area. This can be eliminated if need be. There are other sensors that can be eliminated from the equation as well but you will decide as you build your harness on what to keep and what not to hook up.

Kelly
Awesome man, thanks a lot.

The link will help a ton. Exactly what I've been looking for.

For getting the harness out- The 'engine' plugs I put some tape on so I know not to cut them. Everything else I've been unplugging except for a few that I've cut at the plug. What I've cut as either been stuff with big plugs, like headlights, and a couple where the plugs didn't want to unplug. I wasn't pulling half a dash just to unplug the heater controls, for example.

There are no emmissions here, so no worries. All I basically care about is that the motor runs good, and one way or another I have a few gauges. I'll probably end up with a box mounted on the dash somehow, mount some aftermarket gauges and all needed switches on it. I need to look at the dash more and come up with an idea. Right now the sammi is covered in the corner of the barn, and I haven't seen the dash in a few months. There's only room for one in the garage.

What other sensors can be eliminated? Do you mean stuff like ABS sensors, Brake fluid level, that kind of thing? All the engine stuff needs to be hooked up I would assume.
 

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Fo awhile I ran my 8v swap with no O2 sensor... It worled but it worked even better when I hooked it up.
As for ABS and other crap like that I never had it in the model year I used to do the swap... The master cylinder was upgraded as well so no need for the fluid level/ebrake light...
You will notice than on the ECM pinout there will be a wire or 2 that need to be connected to the battery so that the ECM will keep a memory and run proper at every start instead of having to relearn on every start up.
Also... you will need to wire the neutral safety switch in series so ya can start in gear when needed.
Kelly
 

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Best advice is to avoid cutting anything off until you have a wiring diagrahm. Search for Samurai wiring diagrahm and the tracker diagrahm, once you have them all unwrapped you can go wire by wire easily to delete down to just what you want. The only underdash you need is to the gauges and vss. Even if you don't use the vss, save it, they are worth $25-35 and getting hard to come by.

Suzuki was very good about staying true to wire color.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Fo awhile I ran my 8v swap with no O2 sensor... It worled but it worked even better when I hooked it up.
As for ABS and other crap like that I never had it in the model year I used to do the swap... The master cylinder was upgraded as well so no need for the fluid level/ebrake light...
You will notice than on the ECM pinout there will be a wire or 2 that need to be connected to the battery so that the ECM will keep a memory and run proper at every start instead of having to relearn on every start up.
Also... you will need to wire the neutral safety switch in series so ya can start in gear when needed.
Kelly
I'll keep the O2 sensor, it's not like it's hard to hook up. The wiring diagram on the link you posted above isn't showing up. I'll google some more, I'm sure it's out there somewhere.

Best advice is to avoid cutting anything off until you have a wiring diagrahm. Search for Samurai wiring diagrahm and the tracker diagrahm, once you have them all unwrapped you can go wire by wire easily to delete down to just what you want. The only underdash you need is to the gauges and vss. Even if you don't use the vss, save it, they are worth $25-35 and getting hard to come by.

Suzuki was very good about staying true to wire color.
Good advice, thanks.

Does anyone know where the VSS is? Under or around the speedometer I'm guessing? I have some of the wiring worked out from under the dash, haven't made it to the gauge area yet.



Easy enough. connect this:

Ack's FAQ Generic Samurai Vehicle Wiring Diagram

To this:

http://zukioffroad.com/Tech_Library/images/diagrams/samurai_wiring_diagram.JPG

Should be done in time for lunch. :laughing:
 

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I know your trying to do it yourself but the last one I did I sent it to trailtough and it came back all nicely labelled and ready to drop in for $300!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I know your trying to do it yourself but the last one I did I sent it to trailtough and it came back all nicely labelled and ready to drop in for $300!
That is tempting. I have the harness sitting inside right now. Tonight ill get the diagram in front of me and start working through it. Might not be as bad as it looks.




All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.
 

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I think it is on the transmission of the sidekick, google -vss location suzuki sidekick
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just some random phone pics. My phone doesn't like to upload sometimes, see how this goes.

It was fun digging through this.



Heat would be amazing in here.



1.6 coming out.



1.6 wiring.



1.3 and transmission out. I didn't plan on pulling them together. The rear trans mount was broke, and I forgot to unbolt the lower sheet metal cover. It started on its way out so I had to change plans a bit.



All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
hmm... Maybe I can get the girlfriend to steer.



This works.



It's small.



How in the hell? This is past the throttle body. Should have been closed off. I'll pull the intake later to clean it out and see what all was in there.



All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry about not having pics, but...

I got the sammi transmission bolted to the 1.6 by the top 2 bolts tonight. I read quite a few threads on other forums that guys make a J bolt for the bottom 2 instead of using an adapter plate. Here's on in particular I was looking at for reference:

1.6 swap without adapter plate


It sounds easy looking at it, but once I got everything in front of me it looks like a bad idea. Has anyone here actually done it this way? I think I'll be better off actually getting the adapter plate. This just seems like a really weak way of ghetto-fabbing it together.

Any advice on this, or a source for an inexpensive adapter plate? A friend has one in his garage somewhere, if he can't find it I'll just order one. I have a plan for the motor mount, so I won't have to buy that part.
 

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I used the trail tough adapter plate from low range. My advice is use red loc-tite on the studs as they tend to back out and cause a gap between the plate and the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Progress. Looking at options for the motor mount now. Going to come up with something then pull the motor back out. Make a mount, assemble the easy stuff like starter and intake, then hopefully drop it back in tomorrow.





All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just talked to a friend that is still saying to go to a Weber. Here's the texts from him, in his words:

- Weber carbs have better throttle response -

- Throttle body is like driving a sami with lawnboy engine. I have spare Throttle body parts if you need it, I took everything off -

- I was going to change my dad's over but his weber doesn't flood so we said fuck it -

When I asked him about flooding out, and said that I've heard guys complain, here was his response:

- the float drains into the barrels. You have to JB weld some stuff and tap an outer drain -

What's the verdict? I've seen his dad's sammi run with the weber and it does very well from what I can tell. Never stood next to him on a hard section though. It is tempting to go he easy way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, I'll continue with the fi then. You're right. Heck its cheaper anyways. With the way work looks for me right now cheaper is better for sure. Otherwise the 1.6 would be in the house getting re-ringed and gone through.

All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.
 
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