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going to do a LONGARM on an XJ.... Need coil advice

3K views 34 replies 19 participants last post by  OpeHesoX 
#1 ·
I plan on doing a home brew long arm setup on an Xj real soon.. I have been looking into coils and just cant decide whats best. I am hoping to get around 6" to 8" of lift out of the setup, Enough to clear 35" tires plus it will get some sawzall work:)

What coils do you guys like?? Skyjackers, RE,??? I need some opinions
This setup is being built on somewhat of a budget, So no coilovers or airshocks. Just good old coils???

Also, Does anybody have any experience with moving the front end forward?? I would really like to push it forward about 2-3" but i don't really want to build a new top coil bucket, Any idea's??

Last but not least, I saw somewhere on here about dakota leaves giving the rear of an Xj like 5" of lift?? Whats the deal on that?? I searched but came up empty handed?? Tell me more......

Thanks in advance
Joey
 
#27 ·
it all depends on what 35s you run I know my 33" SSR's run about the same as 35" MTR's. I am going to 7" with my 36" iroks. I would stay around 6" if I was you just to keep the weight down also things to think about are trackbar and all that stuff.
I got the Dakota leaves with 5" in the rear and still rub my 33s pretty good but I don't run bumpstops either, I don't believe in them.
DIG IT!
 
#28 ·
BUCKYXJ said:
it all depends on what 35s you run I know my 33" SSR's run about the same as 35" MTR's. I am going to 7" with my 36" iroks. I would stay around 6" if I was you just to keep the weight down also things to think about are trackbar and all that stuff.
I got the Dakota leaves with 5" in the rear and still rub my 33s pretty good but I don't run bumpstops either, I don't believe in them.
DIG IT!
Bumpstops aren't just to keep from rubbing or whatever, they are good to keep a suspension in check and from over extending things....
 
#30 ·
Thanks for all the positive comments guys..

I think i will run 5-5.5" springs, Build a crossmember to attach the bottom links to, build arms using Johnny joints at the frame end, And use bushing's at the axle end...
 
#31 ·
For what you wanna do I think the Clayton's kit is a damn good kit. If you already have adjustable upper control arms buy Clayton's X-member and RE TJ long arms(just the front lowers, they have JJ at frame, rubber at axle) and put them together to save some $$(that's what I did).

Ary
 
#33 ·
Wideopen said:
I plan on building all of my own arms... It don't get much cheaper then that:)
I hear ya on that. I would still recommend pricing out all the materials necessary to build them, and then compare that to the Clayton's and RE parts. For me, the $200 difference was well worth the time and aggravation that inherently goes into fabbing something. Just a thought.

Ary
 
#34 ·
Wideopen said:
I plan on building all of my own arms... It don't get much cheaper then that:)
The RE 4.5 ZJ coils are a good choice, as most of the comments suggest. I've been running them and have liked them. I also agree that you don't need 7-8" of lift to run 35's. A lower center of gravity can give better trail performance, and 35's can be run with 5.5-6.5" of lift with some thoughtful trimming........if better trail performance is what you're actually building for. Some build just to be cool......... :cool2:

What's your goal with the long arms? Since you don't want to look at NAXJA, and this has been discussed inside and out so many times over there that you could read for days, I'll bring the discussion here. :D

Most long arms on XJ's reduce ground clearance, and so reduce breakover angle, and end up hurting trail performance. It's possible to build a long arm that tucks the frame mounts up inside the frame, but it's not very easy. ALL off the shelf XJ long arm kits mount the arms below the frame........not a good thing. The benefit of long arms is getting better control arm angles, resulting in less rearward axle movement at full droop, and a better ride. There is also a benefit in climbing certain very steep ledges since the axle moves more straight up and down from the better arm angles. IF arm angles are the real benefit (and goal), there are other ways to provide for better arm angles that don't compromise so much ground clearance.........especially if you're going to fab everything up yourself. If you have to buy something off the shelf, you don't have much of a choice.

BTW, forget leaves up front, you already have a much superior design. It's easier to tune the front coil/rear leaf design to work very well than it is to make the swap to front leaves. It's not that hard to tweek the rear leaves to get a decent front to rear balance, if you know what to do. Also, front axle wrap is enough of a problem with the rubber bushings in the upper arms of the stock link setup, with front leaves it will be worse. If you want long arms for a better ride, why would leaves even be an option?
 
#35 ·
this is wideopen, Just at my buddys house

I beg to differ about the leafspring thing, We have been running leafs in the front of toyota's for years now, And you can get a really good ride and you can easily tune them by adding or subtracting leafs...
Leafs have alot of varibles, Like shckle angle, spring width, arch, etc..
if you use a god nice descently long spring with a good shackle angle then you are set, just add or subtract leafs from there to dial in your ride...

The main reason i want to do a long arm setup, Is due to the fact my last cherokee with a 4.5" lift rode and drove like shit, didn't flex for shit, etc.
I was thinking a nice set of long arms for it would really help things out... After all the rear links on my toyota are over 40" long and thats the upper links... I know the longer the link the better your suspension will work....

Thanks for any input...
 
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