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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, even though i am a Jeep guy (not one of those annoying TJ guys, more like one of those annoying 86' cherokee guys), i have been looking at Toyota trucks for a while and now that I have some $, I'm going to check out an 80...
Specs: 4x4, 4 speed, Working AIR!, rust in bed (as usual) and needs an oil pan gasket, 165,000 miles...
$1500 obo, add says excellent condition...

Here is what i have gathered from a search:
-weaker front axle housing without gusseting...
-4.37 axle gearing?
-4.67 first gear?

what are the typical things to look for when i am checking this truck over... I know about the rust issues in the frame, but i need some more technical stuff to look for i guess... Problem areas etc...

I plan to use the truck for a DD until i sell off my cherokee and then i can start the build. I definitely dig the earlier body style, and besides that, its in my budget for now...

Thanks ahead of time... Hugh
 

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i think its a pretty good buy. you could ditch the bed and build a flat bed for it.
you can swap in a 5 speed later.

just drive it around before you buy it. anyone should know that though. make sure it's not leaking anything and you should have a good truck.

you can get a 85 front axle or build in some strenght.

hope it helps. my friend has a truck like that one. it has 450,000 miles and still runs fine. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
 

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Thanks man, is he still running the 20R? I think its a good buy, but i figure yota guys would know more about one than i would... He said the oil pan leaks, but thats an easy fix, and i can do any work i need to... Hell, i built a jeep that actaully works sometimes... What about birfields and the seals around them, should they be real greasy or what? I also hear that an 83 5 speed swaps in perfectly... Hugh
 

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Welcome fellow Toyota convert! Dont be too worried if the motor sounds "rattley" that is not unusual for high
milage 'yotas. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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no, the seals should not leak. i just redid mine, the dude at toyota gave me a sweet discount. they are about $28.00 a side and they came with the inner axel seal. i have basic hand tools. all i had to do was get a tie rod seperater $15.00 at checker.
all you need for a toy is metric wrenches sockets and a phillips screw driver.

the axel seals took about 4 hours a side.

just buy it, you'll be a happier person!
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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I hear that!!! Happy as can be if i can go out without blowing up carriers every trail ride... Oh well, the H**P will still do trail duty until i can sell her, too bad jeeps suck, or i might actually get some cash out of it... I haven't seen the truck yet, but man i love the round headlamps and those curvy front fenders on these models... All my real friends drive yota's... Aything else to look for? How about power steering box's and such? I hear that they tend to blow seals after a while (say 21 years or so)
 

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the only thing that has ever leaked was the oil pan. oh- the axle. no other problems.


<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">

the power steering hasn't ever leaked or lost any fluid! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well, i will let you know what goes down when i go to check it out maybe tommorrow or thursday... If you know anyone that wants a loaded cherokee, send them to the for sale section... Hugh
 

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That is pretty good milage for something that old.......look to see if the front seal is bad....that could be your oil pan problem....or it could be the actual pan gasget.....when the fron seal lets loose it makes a big mess
 

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no one with brains! wants a jeep! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

just kidding! <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">
 

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what else do you want to know?
<IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">
 

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RUST ! Check for rust everywhere, especially the frame. Look at the frame very closely, especially the inside of the rails. Check it in front of the back wheels where it starts to curve up, and also above the rear wheels and beside the tank. Toy frames rust from the inside out. Look thru the openings stamped in the frame and see if the bottom half of the frame isn't full of mud and rust and other junk. This holds moisture that promotes more rust. Also the underside of the cab around the mounts and the back lower edge above the frame rails.
 

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I've been looking for a while too, and actually just found one. I found the frame tends to start rusting where the front spring hanger is welded for the rear springs. Also check right in front of the front axle, front spring hanger for cracks in the frame. I noticed the frame was completely broken on a truck that had been wheeled hard. Also check for oil in the coolant indicating a leaking (blown) head gasket, this seems to be a pretty common problem on the older engines. Good luck.

Milan
 

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I got an 80 toy, well sort of, it at least started out as an 80. As far as the front end I don't deem it weaker than the others just because it doesn't have the fuller gusset, though I bailed on my axles for some full widths. I like my four speed that I have and don't particularly find it weak either as many refer to them as. As far as the 20r well it doesn't have tons of power, but I rock crawl with it and don't need the power anyway, I just geared it low. I've done a couple things to mine, some by choice and some by accident, but you can see it here at the link. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1734322&a=13512220&f=0
 

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As was said before. RUST, RUST ,RUST. I am just finishing patching the four cab corners. Toy's are known for it, as well as the frames. This is my second major rust repair. I am also restoring an 83. It has taken me about 1 month doing some crazy hours to get "most" of the rust at the cab mounts. I must have made at least 30-40 metal patches. Rust is 100x worse than it looks. If you see small rust holes inside the cab near the mounts, you're in shit. I have included some pics of my pain. Don't get me wrong they are great trucks, except for the f'n rust. I will seal all the seams, and use my anti corrosion material when the job is done.

<IMG width=680 height=453 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/rust.jpg">
 

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Rear patch done on my 82.

<IMG width=453 height=680 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/rear patch.jpg">
 

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Rear driver side rust cut out. Patching in progress

<IMG width=680 height=453 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/rear drivers side.jpg">
 

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Originally posted by jason W:
<STRONG>As was said before. RUST, RUST ,RUST. I am just finishing patching the four cab corners. Toy's are known for it, as well as the frames. This is my second major rust repair. I am also restoring an 83. It has taken me about 1 month doing some crazy hours to get "most" of the rust at the cab mounts. </STRONG>
I'm rebuilding my rusted '83 also. I found an '82 frame in decent shape and an '84 cab w/almost no rust. I'd have rather re-used the '83 cab (I like the looks better), but I don't have the welding skills necessary to make the repairs.
Broderick

[ 09-05-2001: Message edited by: fourwd1 ]
 
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