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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Fast Forward to Current Build Specs:
HP60/14 bolt
2.5 16 inch Kings 4 link front
2.0 16 inch FOA's 4 link rear
42 Rockers
110" wb


Ok I think I'm going to use this thread later on as a build thread when i really get moving on the build but for the time being i need some help and advice on things. i just picked up a paired HP44/60. The 60 already has everything for discs other than the brackets. Can someone suggest some good brackets or recommend either bolt on or weld on?


Also as far as the 44 goes I'm trying to work out steering. Both sides will be tapped for arms but i dont know whether to run 1 arm and keep the tierod low or go full highsteer. suggestions on which route to take? Also suggestions on good arms would be great.



The jeep as it sits now.
3.5 in. Fabtech on 32 TSL's



Plan is SOA stretch, not sure on tire size yet, and maybe a 60 up front sooner than later.


Updated Specs:
2.5/AX-5/4:1 231
HP44 locked, chromo'd
60 with welded carrier
recentered H1's with 38 SX's
SOA on stock/rancho mixes

Edit Again.
same drivetrain
HP 60/14 bolt
39 reds or 40 ltbs maybe 42 rockers
4 link rear 3 or 4 link front
 

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"All Weeee Drive!"
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Contact

Mike

&/or

Dan


For all your brackets & steering needs.

Might as well go full Hi-steer while your at it.

Search... It's all been covered.
 

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i have the same axles on my YJ

the drivers side knuckle is already tapped for hy-steer arm. you just need the passenger side milled/drilled/tapped. i used Parts Mike for my arms and steering links.
 

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If you move your front axle forward 3 inches, you must use a stock pitman arm and you will be stuck with a crossover steering. The steering box will have to be moved forward about 5 inches to do full high steer on a YJ. You should be able to use the stock leave hanger brackets for the front axle. Measure your pin width. It should be around 32"

Ballistic has some good prices on the parts needed for high steer as well as the weld up steering linkage kit. thats what I used.

And that front 44 is only good for 36" max tire. Ask me how I know:shaking:
 

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im building up a waggy 44 for my yj , soa with stock packs for now... I was planing on doing full high steer, and just had the knuckles tapped. I wasent planing on jackin the axle forward, and just runnin a stock waggy pitman arm... any problems hitting with that?
 

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cool builkd, and bring back some memories :) Check my sig for some info that may help out. corssover steering would be an easy way to go with if you do not mind your tie-rod hanginga bit lower. Godo luck on the project.
 

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I talked to parts mike about it yesterday. I had been planing on running an extended PS high steer arm with the drag link and tie rod on it next to eachother. They said that to get full turning out of the axle that I would use an intersecting drag link, like the waggy is stock, but with only a 4 inch intersecting TRE insted of the waggy's 8 inch. Some jeeps end up with a binding steering at full stuff( and need the box moved), some end up ok.. i guess time will tell but im goin to use that intersecting set up with the stock pitman arm on my yj and see how it goes.
 

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you really do gotta stop lying:flipoff2:
so far ive been good with my 38.5s with the stock 4 shafts, but i have a light foot and they are only 11.5 inches wide. The width really plays a big difference into it. besides when you have 110hp you can get away with things.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i already upgraded to a zj MC thats a larger bore and a dual diaphragm booster but im figuring i'll have to step it up again so i'm thinking dodge.

picked up solid covers for them, the stock 60 one felt liek sheetmetal. these things are huge and i got a pretty good deal on them so it was hard not to get them.

I also took all the brackets off the 60 and finished my disc conversion, the blue torch brackets are super nice. Cleaned up the 44 and shot a coat of hammered krylon on it and now these things are looking nice finally. Also switched my yoke over to a u-bolt style on the 44, the 60 already had one. I got a 1310 in hopes that i can use my stock front shaft and also hoping that if i run decently large tires that i will break that joint before i break the axle, but i feel like that may be the other way around. the rear is 1330 i think so i'll run a crossover joint on it.



 

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So far I am having decent luck on 38.5's on the same axles. My rig has a 5.0 and a lunchbox in it and I am still on the stock shaft's. A lot of it has to do with your driving style and how well you maintain them. If you drive like you got Dana 80's under it and have a 500 horse motor you will break them. The truth of the matter is most of us like our rigs to much to drive that hard.

On a side note running Warn Premiums with the fuses and a fusible link drivehsaft will help alleviate the problem. Instead of taking the 30 minutes to an hour to change a shaft you just replace the fuses and keep on going.
 

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If you move your front axle forward 3 inches, you must use a stock pitman arm and you will be stuck with a crossover steering. The steering box will have to be moved forward about 5 inches to do full high steer on a YJ. You should be able to use the stock leave hanger brackets for the front axle. Measure your pin width. It should be around 32"

Ballistic has some good prices on the parts needed for high steer as well as the weld up steering linkage kit. thats what I used.

And that front 44 is only good for 36" max tire. Ask me how I know:shaking:
not sure what u mean about moving the box forward...I have a 44 in the front of my yj with full high steer setup and didnt move my box forward. rz
 

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If you stretch the front it puts the pitman arm over the tie rod. Under flex your tie rod will hit the pitman arm and cause damage. I have no stretch and just converted to high steer from ballistic and have slight rubbing from the 3/4" bolt that connects my drag link to my pitman arm on the tie rod. You have two options when stretching that I am aware of, move your box forward or use a astro van steering box. The astro van box is a forward throw pitman arm so it essentialy moves your drag link mounting point 10" forward.

When my xj leafs come in for my stretch I will be converting to a astro box.
 

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If you stretch the front it puts the pitman arm over the tie rod. Under flex your tie rod will hit the pitman arm and cause damage. I have no stretch and just converted to high steer from ballistic and have slight rubbing from the 3/4" bolt that connects my drag link to my pitman arm on the tie rod. You have two options when stretching that I am aware of, move your box forward or use a astro van steering box. The astro van box is a forward throw pitman arm so it essentialy moves your drag link mounting point 10" forward.

When my xj leafs come in for my stretch I will be converting to a astro box.
I also have the hi steer setup from ballastic ( tie rod and drag link ) the arms i had are shorter than normal so it works well for me ( no interference)
i guess if i had the longer arms that some are selling i would have had a problem.rz
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Some progress forwards, i picked up a set of 38 12.50 16.5 SX's over the weekend now im on the hunt for wheels. I have 2 non recenterable H1's that i could run spacers on and im sure i could find 2 more but they would havew to be some pretty big spacers cuz i dont want my 44's hub sticking out so far past the tire and i think they would contact the steering with the stock back spacing. Any suggestions on good spacers? I think geberhard ran some on his YTJ for a while.

Ideally I'd really like to run trailready's but they seem a little harder to come by in 16.5. New theyre a little steep i think so if someone can hook me up or point me in the direction of someone looking to let theirs go that would be great. Ive been checking the classified here regularly and will continue to do so but if you come across something please let me know. Any other finds on a good set of 16.5 beadlocks would be appreciated too as well as recomending me to a vendor with reasonable prices on some. Thanks
 
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