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Discussion Starter #21
Got my steering figured out. I'm gonna run partsmike intersecting drag/tierod that i got from jeepman1. It came in late last week and i'm very happy with it. Everything is directly off his yj so it should just bolt up. Couple questions.

Best way to install studs in the knuckle? should i just put the nut on without the arm and crank down on it til the whole stud is tight and then take the nut off and bolt the arm on?

Also what is everyone's thoughts on running a lockrite in the 60 for the time being. In the future i plan to regear but funds don't permit that at the moment. My thoughts behind the lockrite would be that i dont have to have the ring and pinion reset as i would with a full case locker. When i do regaer down the road i would then step up to a new carrier. Also i think the carrier break on a 60 is at 4.56 and i plan to go to 5.13 or 5.38 so if i put a full locker in now i would end up replacing it later anyway. I know a lockrite would not be anyone first choice but i see it as a reasonable solution for the time being. Thoughts?
 

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i see no problem with the lock rite. i ran it in my 60 for some time without failure.
as far as the studs i use a stud tool. but you can use two nuts to accomplish the same thing. dont forget locktite.
 

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i run 38.5 boggers on my 60/44 combo without chromolly shafts with detroids front and rear and havent had a problem yet. I also dont hammer on it though... no need it crawls nice =)
 

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I have 44s front and rear, Detroit front and spool in the rear. I run it semi hard and have had zero breaks running 38.5 Boggers. I have a set of one tons sitting at a buddies house, but not going to make the transformation til things start breaking and I have to.
 

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I have highsteer on my 44 and it works great. I had the knuckle milled, drilled, and tapped from a guy on Ebay for 45 bucks and I used Xtreme arms with the Rockhard kit. Works great!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Small progress but progress nonetheless. Got the stock axles out and sold as well as the lift. The axles look tiny after working with these big ones for so long.
Started mixing up some springs, for the time being I'm gonna run a mix of rancho 2.5's and stocks and then make the move to xj's or waggys. I have a friend who will sell me a 98 rwd astro box on the cheap. I know that a 95 works but they changed them over midway 95. Anyone have any experience with later ones? I think its probabaly the same. Also I'm in the makings of making up a flat belly (or flatter belly that is) design is here.
All the tubing is 1.5 inch 1/8 wall. I'll sleeve if need be and/or eliminate that which isn't necessary but you guys are the master so suggestions and comments?




 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'm also at one of those points where you start to dream bigger even before you are done with the build at hand. Im thinking I'd like to run a 17 inch rim so that involves new tires. If anyone has something 37 or bigger in the 17 inch that they would like to trade for my SX's or want to buy the SX's shoot me a pm. I'm also considering skipping the whole rear 60 thing and going straight to a 14 bolt as its just seeming much cheaper in the long run, especially if i end up running larger tires. The front 60 is ofcourse always being hunted for, but we'll see.
 

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I have a friend who will sell me a 98 rwd astro box on the cheap. I know that a 95 works but they changed them over midway 95. Anyone have any experience with later ones? I think its probabaly the same.

Apparently not according to westtexasoffroad. I called and talked with them when I built my old YJ a bit and apparently the later years are a weaker box. Just an FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Apparently not according to westtexasoffroad. I called and talked with them when I built my old YJ a bit and apparently the later years are a weaker box. Just an FYI.

Thanks Tomb, I looked up the part numbers through Napa and they listed the older as a single seal and the newer as a double seal. I wonder if the mounting pattern is the same, the input and output and hoses are. I wouldn't mind giving it a try if it were free.
 

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.. correct, so you might as well go with a VANCO hydro-boost kit ~ best bang for the buck when upgrading YJ running gear. the MC you'll get from VANCO is from an 80's model Corvette so its plenty big for the dual pistons. seriously, the VANCO kit is at the top of the list for YJ upgrades, you wont regret it, it installs in a few hours and you will only need a helper for a few minutes to hold the unit in place while you install the bolts thru the firewall. VANCO supplies all hoses and fittings, all you need to do is decide what power steering fluid res to run. if you install line locks at the same time you will have all the brakes you will ever need.



Your going to have to do a MC upgrade to work your front duel piston calipers. Nice find on the axles BTW
 

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skimmed through thread sorry if it's gonna be a dd or whatever...why not full hydro

i have 38.5's 14bff and 44. haven't broken anything yet with a 3.5 and sm465 welded rear lockrite front
 

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i just got one for 190 shipped, brand new. and they cyclinder about a 100. i don't want to know the cost of hoses and fittings though. but seriously, i went out once, only one without hydro, and it's getting it as we speak. myeswell do it right the first time....
 

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Discussion Starter #36
i just got one for 190 shipped, brand new. and they cyclinder about a 100. i don't want to know the cost of hoses and fittings though. but seriously, i went out once, only one without hydro, and it's getting it as we speak. myeswell do it right the first time....

Where did you pick up the parts for those prices if you don't mind? PSC is really expensive but has a great rep.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Got the tierod bolted up, just need to borrow a pitman arm puller to hook up the drag and new pitman.




I'm getting around to mounting up shocks and I want to run my rears outboarded. With full widths and about 4.5-4.75 inches of backspacing. Is that gonna be possible or will i have to notch my frame?

The rims on there right now are just as rollers. I'm hoping to sell my 38's to fund some new ones preferably in a 17 inch.
 

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i got the orbital valve on ebay. i called porc and asked what size i need, then i cross referenced that to danfoss, then found their part and found it on ebay. ram got at surplus center, like 100 or so. just waiting for the lines to get done. i also got a bling oil cooler for 65 shipped from ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Question on shock valving. I am looking at picking up a pair of 5150's for the front. They are the light valving, 170/60. Alot of places say those are the ones commonly used in dual shock setups. Since i have a relatively light rig would they be good do you think or would I be better off trying to find the heavier valved ones?
 
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