[mUD uCKeR]

Hey...
Oringinally planned on useing scoutt diffs front and back going SOA on my 87 YJ... Last night, took everything over to the machinists, looking at the housing... ya know... small tubes, the perch that is soooo close to the pumpkin... he says to me after we get the diff housing up on the mill to machine the perch flat " This U-bolt position is gonna lick ass when this is done, why don't we build you a real diff...? "
Anyways... so after that comment, we changed the plan... take the scout diff housing of the mill... huck it oustide... Pull a 78 ford f150 HP 44 into the shop... " If figured great... this is gonna be a disaster..." The diff is on the wrong side... I need passanger side drop for my Chevy Sm465 and NP205 T-case...

So the plan that developed is this...
Take the HP 44, and change it to driver's side drop using wagonner shafts from a 80-84 waggy dana 44.
Gonna cut the HP44's tube down to match the waggy'
s length... re-weld knuckle on. On the other side... gonna cut the tube off at the center section... drill the plug welds, and press out, or air arc the re-maining tube out... Then, I am gonna order in a length of machine tubing... 3" OD, 3/8"-1/2" wall... Press into the housing.. cut to length... re-attach knuckle... Using the other waggy axle shaft length...
What do I get....?
HP dana 44 with passanger side drop... 3" Tubes... flat top knuckles with high steer...

Tell me this is good, and if not ... why...? Any major problem that i will run into...?

Thanks... And yeah... i am a nooob... but i think this isn't noob tech... so... :flipoff2:

 

[Bigger Valves]

what's the big deal? Axles just like that have been done tons of times before.. But it's still a pansy little 44. I think that's the big problem.

 

[mUD uCKeR]

HEH HEH... Yeah... i know... But I don't want to put a Dana 60 full size on my YJ daily driver.
Anyone have any advice to pulling out the tube...? Is it as easy as drilling out the plug welds and pressing the tube out... ? Should we slice the tube off first at the center section, then press the piece out...?
Good to know that this has been done a 1000 times before..

 

[YETI]

I say sell it and get a pass drop.


Why fawk around with all those mods.

 

[mUD uCKeR]

No such thing as a passanger side HP dana 44... that's narrow enough for a YJ with religious fender flare laws...
If the cops see yer tires out past the fenders... no questions... The send ya to the Vehicle Inspection place for a $100 bend over and take it up the rear.
With the waggy shafts, i should be narrow enough to keep it reasonable.
I already have the waggoneer dana 44... but it's drivers drop.

 

[YETI]

Sorry didn't think about the HP.

 

[mUD uCKeR]

Just found out the only thing i can get for the ford 3" OD tube... is a new pice that is 60" long.... $164.20 plus shipping.
Is there another diff anyone can think of that I could chop up for a peice of 3" OD. tubing... That is long enough...?

 

[Jason R]

Dude you are wasting so much time and money on a Dana 44.

Just get a chevy 44 and be done with it, who cares if it isn't high pinion.

 

[IndyCJ]

Dude,

Been done, no big deal.


HP44 into CJ

Clicky above, you'll notice that the article was written in 2000!


Wasting a lot of time on a 44!

 

[mUD uCKeR]

Hmmmmmmm. Or just look for a waggoneer front driver's side drop diff.... Probably buy one complete for like... $100 right...

Faaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwk.

 

[mUD uCKeR]

True... it is only a dana 44... My plans are to go to a 36" X 12.5 tire and leave it... it's a daily driver, and too much bigger than that is gonna cause problems... i would love to have a trailer and haul my rig to go 4xing... but it ain't gonna happen for me until i can buy myself a house... i can only afford one vehicle at a time.

So i have to decide... in the long run... Is it gonna benifit me enough to have the high pinion 44 over a waggy dana 44...
The HP 44 is supposivley "stronger" Anyone know how much more...?
The HP 44 has better clearence... just a plus...
The waggy 44 has the benifit of no needing one tube cut and another fitting to the long side to get my passanger side drop... My machinist says he can do it for $500 at the most... That's to shorten the long side to work for the short side... and change the tub on the other side, then attach both c's again...
Down side, is i am gonna have to buy some mech tube for the long side again... 78 F150 HP 44 is a 3" OD tube... my spare waggy driver's drop only has 2 3/4" tubes...

 

[LAME]

Dude,

Been done, no big deal.


HP44 into CJ

Clicky above, you'll notice that the article was written in 2000!


Wasting a lot of time on a 44!

Don't hack on that axle, fawker:flipoff2:

Me and CITY WORK built his HP Waggy font in a afternoon with many beer's consumed. Started with a 87 Waggy 44, a HP ferd 44, and a Chevy 44 that doesn't do any good, except for outers. Torched the long side tube outta the waggy, chopped the long side of the ford 44 to the right length. Chopped the inner off the short side of the waggy, sledged it on to the ford , now, short side tube. I already had the other tube removed from the HP housing, sledged the long side waggy tube in the housing. Set the castor, and welded it up.

Dunno where you are at, and what junk yard's rape you for on 44's, but we just tossed together what we had laying around. $50 for the HP, $100 each for the others, but they were complete hub to hub. He ended up using the outers off a Chev 44, I had rotting by the shed.

So $250 in junk axles, but lots of spare parts, $16 for a case of beer, and $15 or so in consumables.

Oh, BTW, it was $40 for the last 60 we built for the 3"x.5 wall DOM.

 

[Tall Grille]

Just found out the only thing i can get for the ford 3" OD tube... is a new pice that is 60" long.... $164.20 plus shipping.
Is there another diff anyone can think of that I could chop up for a peice of 3" OD. tubing... That is long enough...?

Ask the suppliers if they have any "Drops" many steel suppliers will cut material to the length requested by the customer and then sell of the remainder at a discount price. My usual steel supplier has what they call "The Drop Zone" I have gotten some sweet deals this way. Seems you would only need around 24 inches.








BTW you are wasting a lot of money on a 44:flipoff2:

 

[IndyCJ]

Don't hack on that axle, fawker:flipoff2:

Me and CITY WORK built his HP Waggy font in a afternoon with many beer's consumed. Started with a 87 Waggy 44, a HP ferd 44, and a Chevy 44 that doesn't do any good, except for outers. Torched the long side tube outta the waggy, chopped the long side of the ford 44 to the right length. Chopped the inner off the short side of the waggy, sledged it on to the ford , now, short side tube. I already had the other tube removed from the HP housing, sledged the long side waggy tube in the housing. Set the castor, and welded it up.

Dunno where you are at, and what junk yard's rape you for on 44's, but we just tossed together what we had laying around. $50 for the HP, $100 each for the others, but they were complete hub to hub. He ended up using the outers off a Chev 44, I had rotting by the shed.

So $250 in junk axles, but lots of spare parts, $16 for a case of beer, and $15 or so in consumables.

Oh, BTW, it was $40 for the last 60 we built for the 3"x.5 wall DOM.

I wasn't, fawker. :flipoff2:

Just simply pointing out the fact that it HAS been done. (meaning there's nothing new, and had he fawkin searched, he'd have seen that fact)

 

[MC]

you mean like this, it isnt a finished article yet but it is a awesome swap and when you bore the spindle and outer knuckle out and tig the axles you can run BEEFY ujoints


http://www.bulltear.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=638

 

[BrettM]

No such thing as a passanger side HP dana 44... that's narrow enough for a YJ with religious fender flare laws...
If the cops see yer tires out past the fenders... no questions... The send ya to the Vehicle Inspection place for a $100 bend over and take it up the rear.
With the waggy shafts, i should be narrow enough to keep it reasonable.
I already have the waggoneer dana 44... but it's drivers drop.

Toyota axles are strong and cheap with tons of clearance, though I know some Jeep people would rather have their balls chopped off than run one...

 

[das_jeepinator]

Just found out the only thing i can get for the ford 3" OD tube... is a new pice that is 60" long.... $164.20 plus shipping.
Is there another diff anyone can think of that I could chop up for a peice of 3" OD. tubing... That is long enough...?

if you can't find any tube cheaper or cheap enough to fit your budget (not being sarcastic either) we're all tight wads right...
This also applies if you haven't decided to go with another axle

pm me I can cut you a piece of a length I have here at the shop and ship it relatively cheap. btw what I've got is 3" , 1/2" wall

 

[Jason R]

Toyota axles are strong and cheap with tons of clearance, though I know some Jeep people would rather have their balls chopped off than run one...

uh

1. birfields suck

2. birfields suck.

3. birfields suck.

4. birfields suck.

5. Dana 44s are stronger

6. Birfields suck.

:flipoff2:

 

[Road Head]

I dont think you are wasting your money. You are getting what you want. And it may be more expensive than some other ways, but still, it is going to be how you want it. I am also building a D44 front, and my target tire is 36" (TSLs for now, maybe someday 37" Krawlers or MTRs). I didnt want 8 lug, I didnt want a 70" wide front axle, I wanted to be able to run 15" wheels (until I can afford the Walker Evans beadlocks ).

 

[mUD uCKeR]

das jeepanator... Thanks for the offer... i will keep it in mind if i can't find anything...
I would have like to press the waggy tubes into the HP 44... but the HP44 tubes are like... 2.95 " OD... and the Waggy tubes are bang on 2.75" OD... so that don't work for me... That would have been sweet if it did work.
Plan is to cut down the long side for a 80-84 short shaft... No Problem there...
On the HP's short side, we are gonna drill the plugs out and press the tube out... Then try and get a 10 bolt tube and knuckle (if it's 3" OD which we have yet to find one) measure it and machine it down to 2.95 if necessary... and press it into the HP housing... Cut to length so it will work with the waggy long side shaft. If anyone can confirm for me that the 10 bolt has a 3" OD tube ... that would be great so i don't waste a bunch of time looking for one... I already have flat top knuckles machined for High steer, and once we get it together, i will see if it would be possilbe to still run the highsterr arms behind the axle ubove the pinion... Then measure where i need the tie rod to go on the high steer arm. The axle will be 2" more forward then it use to be... so i am just going to wait to measure and then make high steer arms that work.
This thing is a daily driver, and i do plan to run 36" swampers on it. A 60 is too much for me at this point... The 44 will last if i take care of it... if i start busting stuff... it will be the shafts and joints... and when that happens i will go warns and Ctm's.

Putting that axle under my YJ with stock waggy springs...
I know all you guys are so hard on the peddle ya constantly break crap... :flipoff2: I know a HP 44 will be fine for me... I just want to make sure i do it right... so i can use it for a long while.

And the yota coment... ya, i'd rather loose a nut than do that... I drive with cruiser guys, and they would never let it down if i did that.