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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my 4.6L stroker from Golen Engine service and I have a few questions for you guys. It says to use 20W 50 engine oil for break-in and for regular use, doesn't this seem like a very heavy weight? I live in Maine and am concerned about it taking a while to get the cold oil to the heads and causing premature wear. Also I have a 95YJ and Chad at Golen said they would build me the engine around a 94 or 95 core because it had the best heads. It turns out the engine block is from a 90'. Is there any real difference here? Should I be concerned at all?
Thanks for your reply in advance.
-Chris
 

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Unless they have really loose tolerances on all the bearings I can't imagine needing that high of viscosity. I think I would be for breaking it in, and than putting in something more along the lines of 5-30. If it won't keep the oil pressure up I might go back to the 20-50 but if it can't keep the pressure up, I'd be concerned that they built me a crappy motor.

It's not blown is it? That's the only other reason I could see having that high of viscosity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The motor is a brand new crate motor and isn't blown, I think i'm going to break it in with 20W 50 and then call down to Golen and see what the deal is...
thanks for your reply
-Chris
 

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I would do exactly what the warranty paperwork says. If it blows- it's on their head.
 

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rock-rod said:
I would do exactly what the warranty paperwork says. If it blows- it's on their head.
The only problem with that is most engines only come with a 1-3 year warranty. It'll probably last that long running 20-50 but starting an engine on 0 degreee days with 20-50 will take its toll. Murphys law says it'd probably grenade 2 mos after the warranty expired.
 

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BuZ BoMr said:
The motor is a brand new crate motor and isn't blown, I think i'm going to break it in with 20W 50 and then call down to Golen and see what the deal is...
thanks for your reply
-Chris
Tough call because that's what they recommend, but I wouldn't run 20-50 in my new motor. Thing about calling any business is that you don't know who you get on the phone......may be someone with good experience and it may be a new guy.

I just did a stroker, and I broke mine in with 5-30, then went to 5-40.......and I live where it's hot. In my old motor, with high miles, I did run 20-50, but I won't run that in the new motor.

It's your call. Do what you're doing.....ask questions until you're comfortable.
 

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do what chad says. hes the owner and ive called 3 times and every time he answers the phone. he knows more than just your primitive stroker motor. the man deals with strip engines and everything in between. you should of just paid the 550.00 to have him do the break in for you. he 'd dyno it and give you a hp/tq sheet. even a valve cover, timing cover, oil pan to match. your lucky your close to him to. shipping must of been nice. better than my so cal will be. so how do you like it so far? i'll be purchasing mine around may or june.
 

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Don't run a 5w/anything. Those types of oil are for the newer high reving engines. A stock 4 liter uses 10w/40. The 10 being the cold viscosity and the 40 being the at temperature viscosity. With a thermostat of 195 degrees, your year round temp should be pretty much the same, espescially in Maine. I would run what the builders say but find out why.
 

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I just wasted a motor I rebuilt because of oil issues, motor was a pile of scrap in less than 45 min. Second time around I used Shell Rotell T 15-40 which was recomended from a couple of my part suppliers and my machine shop, something to do with the extra additives in the oil. Good luck to you.
 

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My stroker from Hesco came with the same advice, run 20w50. But they also said run 20w50 summer and 10w40 in winter. My pressure does run a little low.
 

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I know there are knowledgable people here that can answer questions like this, but this is what I`d do:
1. Call Golen and express your concerns making sure you speak to your location.
2. If your not satisfied with who you talk to, ask to speak to a manager.
3. Get the recommendations in writing ( I would assume a letter of procedures came with the motor, which I would follow to the letter).
I believe you would have been better off paying them to break it in, and if you still have that option I`d strongly advise it.
 

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I have to agree with the others, do what they say. If there is a problem afterwards and you used something other than what they recommend it could bite you in the ass on warranty.

That being said, if you are concerned about the 20w-50 in cold climates, check out Amsoil, they have great cold climate properties, even the 20w flows pretty good even in cold weather.

Just something to think about.
 

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Oil

Just run synthetic oil in the damn thing it will still start in the winter. This is a voice of experience I live in Wyoming it gets colder than a whores heart here and my junk still starts every time
 

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I called Chad Golen about any questions that I had and he always had the answers I needed. I had my stroker broken in by him and I couldn't be happier with the engine. I would call and just talk to him. He is very reasonable and will help you out with whatever your needs/problems are. I will be going back to him if I ever need another motor build up. His technical support and customer service is top notch.

Matt
 

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duckwacker said:
Just run synthetic oil in the damn thing it will still start in the winter. This is a voice of experience I live in Wyoming it gets colder than a whores heart here and my junk still starts every time
I had heard that you are NOT supposed to break in a new engine with synthetics, something about being too slippery to seat rings properly or something. I run full Synthetics, wil never go back to dino, save the part about breaking in a new engine.
 

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schitzangiggles said:
I had heard that you are NOT supposed to break in a new engine with synthetics, something about being too slippery to seat rings properly or something. I run full Synthetics, wil never go back to dino, save the part about breaking in a new engine.
This is correct. I know that people will contest that some manufactures run synthetic from the get go in thier engines and what not. I work in the recon at Mercedes Benz so I know about all of the oil changes and whatnot. This is what Chad Golen told me about my frist couple of oil changes. NOTE: I had this engine broken in at Golen. Also just using regular 10w-40 motor oil. First oil and filter change at 300 miles, 2nd at 1500 miles, 3rd at 2000 miles. Then I can go the usual 3 months, 3000 miles. After the 3rd oil change he said that I can run full synthetics then but I was talking to a few other people and they said to get about 10,000 miles on the engine with the regular stuff and then go to full synthetics. I am going to run full synthetic in this motor when I reach that mileage.

Matt
 
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