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Bump,

Anyone have a link to the speed monkey laser cut parts or are they dead,

Or has anyone laser cut the gottrikes parts that have a file, or is the file included in plans? Would it be possible to cut all the holes with hand Plasma?
Maybe you are way better than me at plasma cutting holes by hand, if I tried it everything would be sloppy AF and probably make bends out of plane. I wouldn't bother.
 

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Maybe you are way better than me at plasma cutting holes by hand, if I tried it everything would be sloppy AF and probably make bends out of plane. I wouldn't bother.
You are probably smarter than me... but I am thinking I can drill a hole in a bunch of dimes, and tack there to where the holes need to know.

My Hypertherm 45 with the drag tip will cut about 3/16" larger then I am tracing with the cut.

A Dime is .705
3/16X2+ .375
_______________
1.08"

Not sure if that would be too much slop for the 1" pins I assume? Actually not sure what size the holes are... but I figured I could do something similar. Maybe someone else will chime in as well, but it could work, or am I retarted?

\\
 

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You are probably smarter than me... but I am thinking I can drill a hole in a bunch of dimes, and tack there to where the holes need to know.

My Hypertherm 45 with the drag tip will cut about 3/16" larger then I am tracing with the cut.

A Dime is .705
3/16X2+ .375
_______________
1.08"

Not sure if that would be too much slop for the 1" pins I assume? Actually not sure what size the holes are... but I figured I could do something similar. Maybe someone else will chime in as well, but it could work, or am I retarted?

\\
HA! I doubt that, I have flashes of mediocrity though.

I have the same 45 with the same tip. I've used holesaw remnants for templates before. If you use the ID of a larger circle rather than the OD of a smaller circle, any errant movement cuts into the drop, not the finished part, if that makes sense. That would mean a 1 3/8" holsaw, which would be easy enough to find.

You could even layout all the holes on a piece of hardboard or steel with stops so each side and each tube are cut as uniformly as possible. I had to polish my holes with a die grinder anyway, it may be worth a shot, or at least a trial on some scrap.

Send it, post pics!
 

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HA! I doubt that, I have flashes of mediocrity though.

I have the same 45 with the same tip. I've used holesaw remnants for templates before. If you use the ID of a larger circle rather than the OD of a smaller circle, any errant movement cuts into the drop, not the finished part, if that makes sense. That would mean a 1 3/8" holsaw, which would be easy enough to find.

You could even layout all the holes on a piece of hardboard or steel with stops so each side and each tube are cut as uniformly as possible. I had to polish my holes with a die grinder anyway, it may be worth a shot, or at least a trial on some scrap.

Send it, post pics!
That's actually a perfect idea, lay out all the wholes on some either 1/16" Steel or a piece of wood and then cut them all out. I do not see how it could fail if you build it as a template.

I need to buy some dies and plans first.
 

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Have another question about this.

They say the max is 2" .120 wall tubing... What would this need to bend bigger? I really need to be able to bend 2" .25 specifically...

Is the weakness in the arms as hinted above? would 3/4" or 1" arms make this stuff enough to bend thicker tube?
 

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Have another question about this.

They say the max is 2" .120 wall tubing... What would this need to bend bigger? I really need to be able to bend 2" .25 specifically...

Is the weakness in the arms as hinted above? would 3/4" or 1" arms make this stuff enough to bend thicker tube?
One factor is that the pro tools die has a limit of 2" .120 wall tubing. The other factor is the arms. Even on the pro tools arms the pin holes are located close to the edge of the arm 1/4 inch or so. This is also the "load" side. Thicker arms would definitely help but if you could move the holes forward, a little further from the "load side" it would help.
 

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One factor is that the pro tools die has a limit of 2" .120 wall tubing. The other factor is the arms. Even on the pro tools arms the pin holes are located close to the edge of the arm 1/4 inch or so. This is also the "load" side. Thicker arms would definitely help but if you could move the holes forward, a little further from the "load side" it would help.
I agree... I have also been looking carefully at the Chopper handbook bender as well.

vertical tubing bender

Seems to use JD2 Dies which can do the 2" .25 and be a little beefier?
 
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